cliffcoggin

I don't know the specifics of yours, but the four wheel drive system in general has a reputation for low durability and very expensive repair. I hope your mechanic can repair it, as it will cost more at an Audi dealer.

Sean. I realise you are in a dilemma, but I don't have the time to search through the dozens of old posts on the matter to find a specific recommendation for your particular model. That's something you must do for yourself. What I can say is that the Audi recommendation is wrong. Audi has been increasing their limit for years in an effort to reduce the apparent cost of maintenance to new buyers, which has caused some owners to suffer wrecked engines. Consider that a new cambelt, with associated tensioner and water pump, cost me a shade over £700 at least ten years ago. That was a large bill that I really didn't want, however the consequence of cambelt failure is often destruction of the engine leading to its replacement at a cost of many thousands of pounds. I had that job done as the car approached 70000 miles in line with normal practice at the time.

Is the battery in good shape? A dying battery can lead to limp mode and give false error codes.

Given the cost of a turbo it would be worth investing in another scan elsewhere to be certain of the diagnosis.

Good advice. So often I see folk spray penetrating fluid onto rusty threads and then expect the nut to magically grow enough to run over the rust.

You don't necessarily have to take the problem to Audi Most independant VAG specialists should be able to do it, and will likely be cheaper as well.

See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

I am talking about a different charge point (aka EVSE), not a different port in the car. In other words a power outlet other than your normal one.

And Google is infallible?

It would be worth testing at a different charge point to eliminate your own outlet.

Peter. If the car is 2024 then I understand you going to an Audi dealer; however if it is 2014 as per your signature you would be better going to an independant VAG specialist.

Mine fitted in the glovebox. It didn't leave much space for a great deal else such as sunglasses and a can of travel sweets, but it was enough.

Yes and yes.

The information is not limited to just the 8Y forum. Search for "cambelt" with the "everywhere" filter. Unfortunately the search function is not very discriminating so you will need skim through a lot of irrelevant stuff.

I don't understand why one would change from a well loved car in good condition to a defective car, just because its engine is one tenth of a litre bigger.

Sean. This matter has been extensively discussed over the past year or two. Please search the Audi forums to get the full range of advice and suggestions, which in essence suggest getting the belt changed more frequently.

Nobody was offended Martin, just a little surprised given that you seemed to know how to post in your previous topic. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/30633-audi-metallics/#comment-127173 I have hidden more instances of repetition.

Which demonstrates once again how a weak or dying battery can cause false warnings.

Martin there is no need to repeat the same block of your text every time you reply. Just use the Submit Reply button unless you want to quote from another persons response. I have edited your replies accordingly to make for easier reading.

It's one of several reasons I prefer rear wheel drive.

Devious illegitamate offspring.

The mechatronic module is notoriously difficult to overhaul so is best left to a specialist. Try the oil and filter change as a first step.

There are the causes. Going forwards up a steep drive shifts the weight closer to the rear wheels. Add to that a heavy right foot and a wet surface, and you have the ideal conditions for wheel spin. Try reversing up the drive to see the difference.

Sahil. Any of the mechanics could be right, in that anywhere a rubber bush is fitted for compliance is a possible source of creaking noise. Unless one can show excessive movement by levering each joint with a crowbar it's going to be a lottery as to which joint is at fault.

P&R = Post and Run. Read the warning against you.