cliffcoggin

17 hours without a response is nothing. Learn some patience and wait for four or five days. If there is no reply after that it is reasonable to assume nobody is willing or able to assist.

Thanks for letting us know.

That's very possible, though not certain without a decent diagnosis.

I suspect a faulty switch.

Read the whole thread to find the answer to your question.

Hmm. Best to get an expensive diagnosis done. The cheap ones often don't do a proper job.

Added to which you would have to pay somebody to adjust the tracking afterwards.

If I understand correctly, when you set the cabin heater for cold it still blows hot. Is that correct? If so I reckon the flap inside the heater which controls the mixture of hot and cold air is faulty. I believe it has an electric motor to drive it, which likely is the problem. An Audi specialist should be able to sort it out.

So I noticed Gareth. Reading between the lines I doubt we will get a reply.

The usual, but not the only, cause of stop/start problems is a dying battery. A professional battery test, not a simple voltage test with a multimeter, carried out at no charge by suitably equipped garages will reveal any defects. If a new battery is needed ensure it is coded to the car.

That's a horrifying degree of corrosion which can not have happened in one year, so any MOT you may have must be considered fake. I suggest you get the car inspected by another tester before spending any money on the car in case there is other corrosion to be rectified.

Please clarify what you mean by that. Is it the engine temperature or the cabin temperature that is not changing? Are you referring to the fuel and temperature readings that are "going up and down"?

Pinging is frowned on here, particularly after a mere nine hours. Learn some patience. If there has been no response after five days it is safe to assume nobody is able or willing to advise.

I did, and in you wrote "It was only some time after I ordered this A3 that I found out that it's a “mild hybrid”. So, do you have a mild hybrid or a petrol engine?

You bought a new car without knowing how it is powered?

I am surprised, though perhaps I should not be, that there are no lock barrels in the passenger door and boot lid. I guess there may be a way to release the bonnet from under the front bumper but I don't know how.

I thought you might mean that, but it's as well to be sure rather than making assumptions. Blasting with sand, grit, shells, carborundum, and other abrasives is commonly used for processes such as paint removal, rust removal, and texturing of metal surfaces. The need for regular decoking, as we used to call it, ended long ago. In my early days of driving it was normal to decoke at 30000 miles and rebore at 60000 miles. Better controlled fuel mixtures and ignition timing nowadays have largely eliminated the carbon build up that was prevalent 50 years ago. If your engine has been well maintained it is likely the rings and bores and bearings will wear out before coking becomes a problem. In your place I would not be concerned about carbon build up after 45000 miles, or even 145000.

The metal key does not mechanically unlock the driver's door? Have you tried it in the passenger's door, or even the boot lid?

Blasting of what?

It sounds like the 12 volt battery is almost dead. How old is it?

Have you come to a decision yet Kev?

Evidently Jay no longer wants any advice so I shall stop watching the topic.

I've never done the job, but I believe it is far from easy. Another option to consider is having the damage repaired by a car upholstery trimmer?

Broken wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame are a common cause of this problem.

You could waste an awful lot of money buying new parts at random. Better to get the fault diagnosed first before spending out.