cliffcoggin

Manufacturers only commit to supplying spares for ten years after the end of production, so you have a difficult task ahead. It would be worth searching for specialist classic car clubs who often stock, or even make, parts for old cars.

Any response to the above, Mark. I know you have seen it.

Adblue blockages are a common failing and will cost up to £2000 to repair because the tank, the pump, and the sensor will have to be replaced. If you bought it from a dealer in the last 30 days, return it for a refund or free repair. Otherwise you must bear the cost yourself.

Chuckle.

You are not giving us much information Christo. Even the casual mention of knocking was slipped in as an after thought, even though it is significant. Steve asked if you were losing oil, and I ask the same. I also ask if the car has been re-mapped, has a full service history, and what the mileage is. Without more detail we can not provide sensible advice.

If there were no codes, who or what said it was injectors?

Nobody at all? So you have had the car diagnosed on a VCDS or similar tester and there were no fault codes?

Any response to the above Matt, or did I waste my time writing a detailed explanation? I know you visited the forum two hours ago so you must have seen it.

That's disgraceful! Do they also charge extra for the soap the mechanic washes his hands with, or the wear and tear of the office manager's chair, or the insurance on the building? While all are valid costs of running a business, they should be incorporated into the pricing structure presented to the customer. This nasty little scheme sounds like a way to impose hidden charges, which I believe is illegal in England and Wales.

Please do. I'll be watching for it.

Undoubtedly annual servicing is the way to go, however I believe the dealer needs to change the MMI setting.

Any update for us Ian?

A wise choice.

It's possible the car was serviced at a non Audi garage in the missing five years, but without written evidence I would walk away from purchase.

PS. Public charge points are expensive to use, often being similar to the cost of petrol in terms of cost per mile. It is always better to charge at home, even more so if you have cheap overnight electricity.

Jerry. There was no picture in your post for me to comment on, however a new UK car would normally be supplied with a type 2 cable which has 7 pins and looks like this: https://evwired.com/blogs/blog/type-1-vs-type-2-ev-charging-cable-explained-complete-guide-for-uk-ev-drivers It is designed principally for home charging and plugs into a standard wall socket. Ignore any references to type 1, which is for the USA, and Chademo, which is for Japan. The public type 2 charge points you will meet are few and far between, and have been more or less abandoned. You often need to take your own cable. Instead you will find that most public outlets are CCS, which looks similar to type 2 with an additional two pins and looks like this: https://voldt.co.uk/collections/ccs2-plugs-and-cables CCS charge points are the de facto standard here because of their ability to charge rapidly. It should be easy to see if your car is fitted with a type 2 or a CCS socket. In summary, if your car has a type 2 socket you can charge it slowly at home but rarely anywhere else; if it has a CCS socket you can charge it slowly at home with the type 2 cable and rapidly anywhere else with CCS cable.

Look for VAG specialists to work on your car, there are plenty of them around. It would be worth searching Ebay, both nationally and internationally, for new parts.

Have you read the earlier responses?

Ben. What is the point of asking a question if you do not read and reply to the comments?

Thanks Gareth. I guess Mr. Watts forgot to take his happy pills today.

A compression test should help reveal a broken ring on the 2.6. Oily plugs on the 2.8 might be a broken oil ring; it might also be worn valve stem seals. Either way it's likely the heads will need to come off as a first step.

I would wait a day for other opinions before committing to any actions.

Stevey Y's response in your previous topic may be relevant. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/30500-multiple-gasket-failure/#comment-126327

It's not normal for any engine to shed a lot of metal particles unless it is very worn, which I would not expect after 96000 miles, so it's probable that the engine has to be stripped to find what is disintegrating. That's going to cost thousands of pounds unfortunately, and may not be economical. Are there any symptoms that may help diagnosis such as smoke, high fuel consumption, loss of coolant, unusual noises, poor performance?