Steve Q

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up Sometimes as pipes ages they can leak around the ends where they attach to components. As boost pressure builds, air escapes but once there's no boost the pipe seal goes back to normal if that makes sense

Could definitely be the chain. Usually jap imports are well maintained due to the strict MOT regulations there. Wiring and computer systems can be slightly different. The other thing you'll have is understanding the service history as till all be in Japanese so you're relying on the dealer to be honest about the history.

Instrument

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up.

So glad you got sorted 🙂

Sounds like an issue with the instrument cluster and the imobiliser built within it. My advice is to get the cluster tested and repaired

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Inc

No probs at all. The bags replace the conventional suspension set up of springs.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

You've got Chapman's Audi specialist in Leicester too. I'm based near Leicester.

Regarding the roof and boot I wonder if they're linked. If the car thinks the roof isn't fully closed is this stopping the boot from opening. Makes me wonder if a sensor isn't working to let the roof know it's closed. I'd recommend getting an auto electrician to take a look.

Yep one in each corner.

Could there be an imobiliser issue? Are any of the carpets wet which could hint at damaged CCM.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a lovely car 👍

I'd definitely say a leaking suspension airbag.

Just had a look on YouTube for videos: https://youtu.be/5GQ91HyQfdw?si=EawMm5ebZHe1jvSy

Fingers crossed it arrives before April 🤞

Yep you'll need the wiring harness and clock spring.

You're welcome. I think the 1.4 petrols have more problems I believe.

Odd there's no fault codes. When was the car last serviced. Could it be an issue with the HT leads or spark plugs for example

Do t forget for diesels you can have issues with dpf, egr and turbo. Service history is key. I think the decision needs to be made whether to have petrol or diesel and this will depend on the amount of miles each year, type of miles is town, motorway etc. diesels are better for longer commutes and lots of short journeys is what can block up the dpf with soot.

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be a crank sensor. Is there any red light on the dash which could indicate an issue with the imobiliser?

Keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Check service history for proof of a cambelt and water pump change and a gearbox oil change. The latter can start playing up with changing gears if the oil has deteriorated. In addition make sure all electrical items work as some parts can be expensive such as air conditioning compressors. Make sure heater works on all settings and is consistent temp and flow from all vents. Because if it isn't could be a sign or blocked heater Matrix and this isn't a cheap job. Check carpets and boot for any damp or water ingress both of which can be time consuming to trace. Also check buyers guides on YouTube.