Steve Q

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. But the unit could have failed.

Do you get any tickets when turning the key, ie starter motor trying to start it? Could it be crank position sensors? Cam sensors? Or an imobiliser issue?

I bet the key fob needs a new battery.

You're welcome

You've done the right thing getting it booked in as it'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up.

I think it's glued on.

Here you go but it's quite involved: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/255379/%3famp=1 You may be able to just wire the fogs to the headlamp power supply. not sure if you will need bigger fuses or if a code will appear though.

With dsg gearboxes servicing is key. Has it been serviced regularly? If not recently then I'd change the gearbox oil first. Id Also recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

Not being funny but Yiu e bought a 10 year old Audi. Any car 10 years or older will need work. The list of brakes, cambelt, tyres is all routine maintenance. No matter how cheap a German car is to buy, parts are always expensive. Flywheel more unusual, but dpf and egr cooler issues are well documented on vag cars. But as you've had them blanked out they should no longer be a problem.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Thanks Steve, spot on with what I was trying to say.

If it's used it'll definitely need reprogramming, if it can be done. I've seen on eBay people selling ECUs with imobiliser deactivated. However I don't know if I'd trust this but just letting you know what's on eBay

It may not start at all. It definitely needs coding. If you don't then you could put the car in safe mode. Even on my old A6 C5 the ECU, injection pump and instrument cluster are all linked to the immobiliser.

I agree with Mark, over heating discs. I had this once in my 2002 A6 after extensive Hugh speed driving on the autobahn where I was having to brake hard at different points when cars would just pull out. Eventually the brakes over heated which caused the vibration through the steering wheel. Once cooled down and back to normal driving it was fine.

Yes I believe they need to be coded.

If your a2 is anything like my A6 you'll find this tricky. As the ECU, injection pump and instrument cluster all talk to one another to disable the imobiliser. Finding someone who's able to do the electrical coding is difficult. I'm in a similar boat but just wanted a different engine code of the same type of engine fitted. Also I notice your a2 is a 2003 model, cars registered on a 52 plate and later have to meet the emissions standards of the car when new. Where as up to 02 registered cars can meet the emissions standards of the engine rather than the car as long as engine manufacturing date can be confirmed. So I could fit a 1970s rover V8 to my A6 and it would just have to met the 70s emissions. The benefit you'll have is you're looking to fit a more efficient engine than the original.

Definitely!

Going to sound mad but I'd be taking the golf bag and trolley with me to test it for peace of mind!

Id be speaking to Audi about this. I remember 3-4 years ago (I think) nissan were selling cars with sat navs that had SD cards from 2016. it was in the media and didnt paint nissan in a good light. Sounds like Audi are doing the same?

Oh wow, must be linked via my Audi app.

If you've bought it from a dealer then it's there responsibility to fix this. As you're entitled to a full refund up to the first 30 days of purchase. Yep you can get aftermarket head units

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Air suspension problems are the all roads biggest problems

That's good then. They're probably just being cautious.

If you're looking at retrofits members have used Audi retrofits and autologics and been happy with the results

Nice one Dave thank you 😊