Search the Community

Hi, the first thing I would check is the catalyst as often as not with some of these lunatic mapping boys they fillet the cat and anything else in the way then do a remap I suspect thats why the previous owner has sold it as the engine ages it becomes harder to keep the emissions down, normally these remaps leave the emissions within acceptable limits unless other elements within the exhaust system have been tampered with. Any reputable mapping companies such as Bluefin would have a suitable remap for your car but the problem is they are not cheap so check the physical items first, if you can contact the guy you bought it from and find out what was done and where it was done that would help, but again the problem is that a lot of these so called performance modifiers take the ECU out and change the chips in the unit which renders the unit scrap as once modified there is no road back the easiest route is buy a ECU from a scrapper that is the same year and model with the same part number as yours and get it coded to the car either way it won't be very cheap, the oldest advice in the world is if you want fast buy from the factory fast. Steve.

Hello Colin, Thanks for being in touch. The economics should be fairly easy for you to work out. You will need an estimate of the increased mpg from those who you propose to use to remap the car. You then work out how much less fuel you are going to use over your 22K annual mileage, and compare this with the re-mapping costs, to work out how long it’s going to take you to simply get your money back. Whether the whole thing becomes an economic consideration will of course, also depend on how long you intend to keep the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

I know, it looks bad, although the forums get plenty of views its just the participation that is lacking at the moment. Did a quick search (within the forum search bar) for 3.0TDI problems and mapping....hopefully some useful info in amongst them https://www.audiownersclub.com/search/?&q=3.0tdi problems&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy https://www.audiownersclub.com/search/?&q=3.0 tdi mapping&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

indeed - but initial look through this forum shows plenty of listed problems, however little apparent interest shown Is there a section on 3.0 tdi potential flaws / mapping?

I haven't had anything done emissions-wise (although cannot say if the previous owner had/hadn't). Just sitting at 70-75ish on a decent trip to the Isle of Wight (when we could in the summer...) i got nearer to 40 overall, but on the flip-side when my heavier right foot is in play it doesn't ever fall below 31-32 - which for what the car is I still think is pretty great. Just a word of caution on re-mapping (in my experience of course). My previous car was a Mk7 VW Golf R, which I had various things done and was dyno'd at 382bhp - it was brilliant fun and that power didn't affect my mpg seriously either - I took great delight in out-dragging a couple of local RS3's due to the much better power-to-weight I had - but - despite me having a Sachs upgraded clutch I began to fear the other knock-on issues that running significantly more power can cause; and then, once 1 part fails then the next will and then the next and who knows how expensive those kind of issues would be on our BiTDi's?

August. It certainly sounds like a fuel problem and your mechanic seems to have done all the obvious checks. The only thing I can suggest is to get a full range of diagnostic tests done by a diesel specialist, not the local Audi garage, not a helpful friend, but a specialist in diesels. Having said that, I worry that the problem started immediately after re-mapping was done. That is too much of a coincidence for my liking. I don't know much about mapping except that it involves altering the software in the ECU, so I wonder if that has been damaged somehow. Is it possible to reverse the mapping?

Hi just bought my first Audi a Q7. I've made a school boy error, thought all Q7 where 240hp turns out mine is 204hp still 3.0 ltr engine, now is this a mapping issue or is there a larger turbo fitted to the 240hp version, thanks for your help in this matter

Thanks Alex, Sounds like you did what was good pre mapping preparations. Looking at it logically, the only thing which has changed is the mapping, so.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Well I suppose if you don't drink, smoke or run a high maintenance woman why not, I find Stuarts honesty refreshing as most people would just blush and keep quite about it all as it didn't quite work and its embarrassing. Case in point a guy I know had bought a brand new Vauxhall Corsa for his beloved son to drive back and forth from university, Jnr was definitley not impressed by 70mph on the motorway and got one of his mates to help him find a remap specialist who apparently did a first class job until it started running like a bag of nails, he mentioned this to dad who had paid for the car, dad considers that the next weekend Jnr is home he will book the car in on the Saturday morning at the dealer he bought it from, this will do Jnr a favour as when he crawls out of his pit the car will be fixed, good old dad. This all went horribly wrong the second they fired up the diagnostics live data, as this was a warranty claim the dealer went into hyperdrive trying to find out what was wrong, dad was rudely awoken by the service engineer and manager telling him his six month old car was no longer under warranty as someone had been fiddling with the ECU and he owed them for the diagnostic and inspection, furthermore if he wanted it back to normal this would involve a new ECU and about two grand to put it right, that was when he rang me to ask for a second opinion, I spoke to the engineer at some length who explained that they get this all the time with youngsters cars to the point where Vauxhall had a special program to trace the original mapping and any map track ghosts left by a plug in the OBD port remap like Blufin. The guy paid for the repair and told me Jnr when questioned had said he didn't think it would matter and thats why he had not mentioned the remap, most cars that have had remap if you admit its been altered the main dealers and some specialist won't entertain woking on engine problems because of the diversity of mapping profiles used by these expert remappers who would claim to know more than the people who make the cars.

Hi from experience I have observed that aftermarket remaps can lead down a dark and dangerous path if you consider the fact that as you quite rightly put it both engines are the same and the only difference is in the mapping, consider this Audi as a producer employ the world supply of software writers during development these guys are tasked to write mapping software that employs subtle changes within torque curves to eliminate extra thermal stress on the engine and protect the integrity of the built in reliability factor, this process costs millions and believe me the motor manufacturer would not be leaving power gains on the table that could be bought for a few hundred pounds, indeed not if they thought they could develop their own reliable remaps they would be selling them. If you work into the equation the extra insurance and the fact at some point you may develop a problem caused by the mapping it then beggars the question is it worth it, these remap engineers have little or no knowledge of the platforms used by Audi software writers to achieve the results required. It all comes down to the old saying, if you want fast buy fast.

Hi Turnerrob, It could be that the seal has withered and the flap is not operating correctly. If your handy with the car, take the EGR and connecting unit off, inspect and if dirty clean with some EGR cleaner and a toothbrush. You can replace the units and see if the code clears ( you'll need a scanner that can clear the OBD fault code ). If the code does not clear, get a refurbed unit and fit it, this should clear up your errors. If not, just take the car to a mechanic you know / trust and give them the error code. If they suggest a new parts, i would say to try and get second hand / refurb as some new ones can cost €300. If they suggest mapping out i would advise against this as it can lead to problems down the line. Hopefully this helps.

Hi all, new to this so give me a chance... Just brought a 2014 Audi A3 1.8TFSI. It’s got 57k miles on it and is cat n. It’s also running big power - bigger turbo intercooler turbo back exhaust etc etc (360bhp ((180bhp standard)) ) Found out that the gearbox has been replaced with a 7 speed 2016 gearbox code RRF (car should have PYV). According to TPS either box is fine for the car but apparently the mechatronics is not meant for the car (Need to get part number and code for this) The gear box fitted has a sensor zip tied to it which is the gearbox speed sensor. They have done this as the gearbox has no cutout for the sensor to be placed in... I have no warning lights on the dash but a lot of fault codes come up when it’s plugged in (will post codes below) and when driving normally the gearbox is fine however when you put your foot down it often won’t change gear, usually revs to around 4k and then it’s as if you are hitting a rev limiter it just won’t shift up until you completely let off. Then when you put your foot down again it will rev out shift up and then tend to do the same in the next gear however strangely sometimes it shifts with no issues at all. My garage is telling me to change the mechatronics unit to correct one however the part alone is £1400 and I didn’t even bother to ask for a labour quote. I have no idea what the best way of going about this is or how to fix the issue hence coming here for advice. I was wondering if maybe there is a way of mapping the sensor out as if they make the gearbox without the sensor hole they must run fine without one? Any advice or pointers in the right direction is massively appreciated! Fault codes to follow most relevant ones being at the bottom G240 and G28 sensors DETAILED ECU INFO CAN network gateway Part #: 5Q0907530Q Component: GW MQB High Coding: 030100042F085A005B0002481C0B00000001000000000000000000000000 (hex) Fault codes: 197175 Manufacturer-specific code Central electronics Part #: 5Q0937084AH Component: BCM MQBAB M+ Coding: 07051C42C25106FD038C5004B31407A80800000000000000000000000000 (hex) Fault codes: 526359 Manufacturer-specific code Steering wheel Part #: 8V0953521CH Component: Lenks. Modul Coding: A418 (hex) [No fault codes] Parking/steering assist Part #: 5Q0919283B Component: PARKHILFE 4K Coding: 0000050011 (hex) [No fault codes] Airbags Part #: 5Q0959655N Component: AirbagVW20 Coding: 98CCC0000C0000005C5400CA00C800000065 (hex) [No fault codes] Instrument cluster Part #: 8V0920970M Component: KOMBI Coding: 27AD0918228026000100FA00100000 (hex) Fault codes: 13636608 Manufacturer-specific code ABS Part #: 5Q0907379AA Component: ESC Coding: 12F18AA234242A6F0178060641CC2948512C5480608294F4024100080608 (hex) [No fault codes] Power steering Part #: 5Q0909144P Component: EPS_MQB_ZFLS Coding: 8103 (hex) [No fault codes] Ignition authorization Part #: 5Q0959435A Component: VWKESSYMQB Coding: 030C0C (hex) [No fault codes] Steering column lock Part #: 5Q0905861A Component: ELV-MQBA Coding: 5D00000000000000 (hex) [No fault codes] Heater & air conditioning Part #: 8V0820043C Component: AC Automat Coding: 03100004000000011000000000001100 (hex) [No fault codes] Front passenger's door Part #: 5Q0959592B Component: TSG BFS Coding: 001086205E01040000001002 (hex) [No fault codes] Driver's door Part #: 5Q0959593B Component: TSG FS Coding: 00108E205C01040000001002 (hex) [No fault codes] Headlight aiming Part #: 7P6907357C Component: AFS-ECU Coding: 011E00002B230200 (hex) [No fault codes] Transmission Part #: 0CW300046C Component: GSG DQ200-MQB Coding: 0014 (hex) Fault codes: 10657 Manufacturer-specific code Engine Part #: 8V0906264B Component: 1.8l R4 TFSI Coding: 0A2500322424010B3000 (hex) Fault codes: 15377 Manufacturer-specific code Infotainment system Part #: 8V0035020C Component: MU-H-ND-EU Coding: 01730301FF00000021111101000A00002F02010701000100DE (hex) Fault codes: 01584 Vehicle too low, pump up started 01585 Contact switch lockcylinder front seat passenger side (F242), open 01586 Contact switch lockcylinder passenger side (F242). close 01587 Igniter 2 for Airbag; Drivers Side (N250) 01588 Igniter for Head-Airbag, Drivers Side (N251) 01589 Igniter for Head-Airbag, Passenger Side (N252) 01590 Igniter for interruption battery (N253) 01593 Heated Windshield (Z2) 01592 Air Quality Sensor (G238) 01595 Type pressure control button (E226) 01591 Warning lamp for Airbag out, Driversside (K144) 01605 Potentiometer 2 for gear recognition (G240) 00513 Engine Speed Sensor (G28) Obtained with Carista

Does anyone know who's manufacturing K03/K03s based hybrid turbos or maybe its better way to go k04 based setup. With K04 i think it can be around stock connecting rods limits , i dont know about prices of certain mods . First thing is to find a good place to do such things without being worried about experience of garages personnel. Can anyone recommend good garage around Derbyshire area ? I've found on internet that R-Tech is good in mapping but it looks like that they're not doing anything mechanical. Cheers.

Evening Today I bought a 2014 A4 Avant 2.0 TDIe SE Technik 163. Isn't that exciting?! There's been a lot of VAG in the household/general family for a while - I've lost it with my 2007 PD170 Altea, which I've run since late 2016, previously I had a 340bhp Octavia RS for 5 years, the ex-Mrs John had a mk5 Golf 1K PD105, followed by a Leon 5F CR184 (amazing car). My dad has a Superb 1.8 TSI, my sister in law a 1.4 TSI Tiguan (might be a 1.5) and my brother has a Golf R. Today was a 'not dicking about looking for cars anymore day' and after the Leon 5F ST I went after turned out to have a queue of people, I pulled the trigger on the A4. The current Mrs John has a Peugeot 3008, so that only comes out after dark. I'm quite excited, should have it by Tuesday or Wednesday (*flippin' swear filter* bank holidays), but I can't find any spec on these from when they were released. I have a set of ET45 18" Speedline Marmoras off the Altea, which I'd like to fit, but I don't know what offset is appropriate on a B8, or if I can run a 225/40/18, and I'd like to know if there are any recommendations for a set of lowering springs that won't compromise a standard shock, as I think a set of coilovers will be out of budget for now. Are these engines worth mapping? For this, and many other questions, I'll probably be lingering about this forum for a while. And if anybody wants to buy what can only be described as a non-runner Seat Altea with a brand new in tank fuel pump and nearly a full years MOT, *PLUS* a RenaultSport Clio 172 that I can't be bothered to pay to tax and insure any more, I'm your man! 😀

Purchased an Q8 in June. Sad to report the Q8 is potentially very dangerous. There is a lag or hesitancy when starting off especially onto round abouts and turning right. We are told that this is due to the clutch mechanism and the computer mapping. Audi, of course, say that there is no fault and this is the cars characteristics. Ha! Even the head of the dealerships Q8 is the same. In fact every Q8 we have driven exhibits the same fault to a greater or lesser degree. Audi are happy to sell us cars with huge price tags and should take responsibility for their products like they did with emissions! Be very careful if you are purchasing a Q8 - you could be taking delivery of a car that you will eventually hate and is a dog to drive.

Hi pal where you based, I have same car, but need to download original engine mapping setting, see my post I posted just now thanks man.

Glad to hear you're enjoying it and only had a glitch or two. Mapping definitely sounds like the way forward to release a few more ponies.

Hi guys, jist spent all day trying to get my Q7 remapped but it doesn't seem to want to make good power, the dpf had been gutted by previous owner and according to the mapping company had not been mapped out but no eml had ever come on for me, but on the stock run it made 258bhp which was odd, however with the new map it only makes 265bhp which my tuner reckons is not normal and should be making way more so the company's owner is going to go through the map on Monday and see if he can see any issues but just wondering if anyone else has has a similar issue??

I understand your views and comments about just offering help can make people feel a little more at ease but unfortunately, in his instance, the offers of help were continually rebuffed. He came to us from one of our dealers and I had been asked to remind him by his employers that he was employed solely to sell machinery and not go off on a tangent with papers on where they were going wrong with their hire fleet, their business models, their transport issues etc. When he joined us, he was given my patch and I offered to take him around the clients, talk through the database and other usual 'handover' stuff and this was totally rebuffed in a haughty manner on three critical occasions. He has that demeanour that he doesn't need advice, nobody else's opinions matter and he is always right. He has had sales/work things go so wrong many times that he picked up the moniker 'Captain Fantastic, the Master of the Disaster, The Minister of SNAFU, The Deliverer of FUBAR'. We all make mistakes but not to the same frequency magnitude or consequence. I have got so sick and tired of trying to help keep him on the sales route to success that I gave up and distanced myself from his activities for my own sanity! I've supported him when he has screwed up and hurt my own reputation to keep him from harm, but I gave up. Today he had to load a 1500kg towed unit onto a trailer along with 1000kg of tracked device to take out, due to a demo day in Kent tomorrow. I unloaded the trailer and left it where he wanted, asking if he needed help. Not required - 'I've done this hundreds of times' type of thing. I then informed him where the cables etc are for the electric winch and left him to it. Another colleague asked if I should be helping him, I agreed as I always felt that he was short on that skill set but that the offer was turned down. Ten minutes later, he is in the office asking where the Directors are as it fell over the side of the trailer and is wrecked! He absolutely needs this model for his diary and nothing else will do. I suggested that as that is our only demo unit, that he either takes a different model or blags a new one off production for static use only. No good as it needs to be worked, I point out that the tracked variant would be too heavy for that trailer but he is such a state by then that that doesn't matter! At this point I make myself scarce. I can do without dealing with his trauma, it is nothing new...I later found out that he had loaded the wrong machine, he had loaded a new machine that was destined for the Czech republic by lorry this week, he hadn't bothered to check serial numbers and had ignored that demo kit has a 'service' tag fitted to show when it was last checked over! Back to my day.... After a show, there is usually a load of menial stuff to do, kit to be cleaned and put away, machines to washed of the mud and correct keys re-issued etc and all the marketing bumpf and kitchen stuff to be done so I rock up in working clothes. I then get told that apart from unloading one trailer, jobs have been allocated! Hallelujah! I got a stack of paperwork, emails, phone calls etc to be done so head out after the little upset mentioned above! I got to go via Wellingborough as my son has his ageing Subaru Legacy with a dodgy twin scroll turbo engine in to be remapped as the original mapping from 215k miles ago is wrong and it is down on power and not suited to UK fuel. Funny how you do things when you are young - he thinks it is well worth the investment in doing this and I think it is a shed! Yet I did put wide wheels and arches on a 6v Beetle and think it was the Muts danglies! This Subaru is running at less than half the PSI it should so needs a de-choke and new rings before the bother with the remap to see if can get close to factory spec.... Quess what I'll be helping with?

Another update, end of August 2018 : (2018 3.0 TDi Quattro Sport Avant , so 218ps not the 272 engine, but auto) After a bit of discussion with the business manager at the supplying dealership, I was told that Audi does in fact now have a (not very well publicised) fix for the problem. Took it in and they did something arcane to the gearbox mapping algorithm. (Took them a couple of hours, and only certain technicians are allowed to get that deep into the system setup) There is still a very slight hesitation at take-off from standstill (I wouldn't have noticed it if I wasn't being hyper-critical), but the lurch that I used to get as the power came in has gone, as has the slight lurch when accelerating gently from a steady speed. Seems like a win! (Thank you Leicester Audi for trying harder....)

My new 3.0 Sport does the same thing. Set it to "Efficiency" and it stays showing "E" till you turn off the engine, then on restart it displays "D" with "EFFICIENCY" underneath. Feels like the "efficiency" gearbox mapping though, but not quite so willing to go into freewheel - that may just be me not being used to it yet. Don't know why. (Seems there's no reason for it - it's just policy.... It holds all the other settings after restart)

Morning Magent, Thanks for the advice. When I spoke to the garage that did the mapping they said to replace like for like which I passed onto the garage replacing the Clutch, it will be either a LUK or Saches, they also said there are some cheaper LUK versions out there where the friction material is "poor". Euro Car parts have both the Saches and LUK listed around the same price, £330'ish but also offering 35% discount at the moment, I'm assured that I can get them cheaper via my mates garage. As the garage who are replacing the clutch is owned by close friend of mine then I'm positive (made it clear) that the superior option is used, also having the DMF replaced also, lot of money to spend I know but the car belonged to my late wife, so there is sentimental reason for spending the money as I plan to keep the car as long as possible. I'll keep you posted on hit it goes, the car is due in next Thursday.

Evening, Just had my A4 TDi remapped at a local garage as quite a few people locally recommended this garage and the improvement it made to quite a varied amount of cars and engines. The power increase is quite noticeable and impressive and it feels like a different car but the clutch was slipping in 3rd and 4th when giving it some welly but no issues when driving normally. My A4 is a 140 model and the mapping has boosted it to 200, not the main reason I wanted it done, just wanted some more grunt and better MPG, they did warn me of clutch slip as it is still is the original and has 112K miles usage without fault. My question is, can I just buy a normal clutch replacement kit or do I have to go a step further and get a performance kit? Cheers

I have a 2006 2.0 Tfsi bought as a pre-owned car, which has now done 88k miles. Never really hammered or abused the car. Last couple of years 2nd & 3rd gear synchronisers have become slightly awkward to cleanly engage. Other gears are generally hard. I've changed the gear oil and bled the clutch using Audi brand fluids (expensive) but still no improvement so am resigned to the idea that I should either go to the expense of a gearbox overhaul or opt for a 2nd hand gearbox. Mine is a GVD and there are plenty of them around via ebay and online generally. What's emerging is the GVD gearbox has been used in a number of different models including A6 3.0 litre, more recent Cabrio's and the Seat Exeo. So here's the question; given I'm looking for a low mileage replacement gearbox likely closer to 2008or 2009 are all GVD gear ratios the same ? Also, if I get a continental GVD gearbox from say Sweden, Poland or Germany will I need to carry out any speedo/odometer output conversions or does this take place via the car's ECU mapping ? Regards, Jools

Hi Dan,Just had my 2012 2.0 134 TDI mapped now 185 by Zensport Essex. I don't drive mine slow but not mad and cover over 1000 miles a week just to work. I used to get around 570 - 590 a tank using cheap super market diesel. After mapping and using Shell ( more expensive ) and driving the same It looks like I'm loosing about 35 - 50 miles per tank. The mapping has totally change the car on throttle response smoothness and get up and go, but most of all you can drive it like it was petrol car ! gear changing, excellaration etc Hope this helps.