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We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Not sure whether anyone will be interested in this but I just thought I would post my musings on our 4 week tour to Germany in our Q8. We just returned on Wednesday after crossing over on the Shuttle four weeks ago and making our way to Dortmund for our first overnight stop . Then we headed south to the little town of Parsbeg in Bavaria whjre we stayed for several days. Then up into the mountains of Bavaria to stay at Berchtesgaden for 5 days. We then crossed back to Berlin for a few days and then onto the wonderful city of Dresden where we stayed for a week. Finally we headed to a favourite Schlosshotel of ours in Lower Saxony whe re we stayed for 8 days. And then a leisurely drive heading for home for the same overnight in Dortmund before we spent 3 days in the little Belgian town of Ypres. I have a great Uncle who is buried in the Commonwealth War Graves Cemery at Tyne Cot. If anyone wants to visit a site that will take your breath away visit this cemetry. The number of young British Tommies buried here who perished in the mud of Paschendale wil make you weep . I have to say that although my missus and I have been touring Germany in the car for many years the road network of the country has deteriated a little in the last few years. Not so much you understand as the apalling state that the UK roads are in now. Many more speed restrictions and repairs on their Autobahn sytem now. However the overiding opinion was that their autobahns, their A and B roads are still in a superb state compared to our roads. Great signage,billiard smooth surfaces, well engineered cambers etc. Also the standard of driving on the Autobahns is so much higher than here. Precise signalling to either come out in a lane or back in again and an almost 100 % compliance to speed restrictions . The only thing I would say is that if you do get in the big boys outside lane on the unrestricted stuff to overtake slower traffic, even though you are probably doing 120 mph, the fast boys behind doing 140/150 plus will try to bully you to get back inside ! And also just maybe the UK registration and sticker does provoke some just a tad ! The car went well. We ticked over from 8000 miles to over 1000. Comfortable and just about fast enough. We had theusual software gliches that any Audi owber recognises nowadays. Lost the top screen one time as it just got stuck trying to initialsie. Then I lost my user identity " thingy " at start up one time so when I started the car my preference didnt kick in. Nothing too nasty and all sorted by a quick reboot by starting the car up again. The most annoying thing was a repeated loud bong and red warning triangle and exclamation mark in the drivers panel warninf of " limited visibilty " ! This came onquite a few times on the Autobahn when the minimum visibilty was at the very least 300 metres and more. God bless the EU eh in forcing he manufacturers in giving us that. Hope ths is of interest. If not just ignore. Frank

Japanese cars are usually better condition in comparison, their roads are amazing and clean, they don't salt their roads so usually underneath is spot on. You just need to make sure the agent in japan knows his beans when it comes to an auction purchase. I have had many a jap import of Japanese cars but cannot see it being much different for other brands too. Best bet is to get the VIN number and do a carVX report, this will show you the auction hisotry and their inspections, bit like MOT history. Cheap and well worth doing. https://carvx.jp/?referrer=VPjcntpvyYfg

All within half an inch to have missed it Colin - I feel sorry for him - it could happen to any of us. Perhaps we have more choice down this end of Wales, but £880 to deal with a minor-ish short scrape, does seem a little heavy on the pencil, as we say down here. Still, it’s done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not been on here or the car for a while been very busy with work and personal things but got back on it today and it's all together so hopefully I can turn her over tomorrow

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. Regards Steve.

Audi A2 1.4 Tdi in lovely condition for the age. 5 door lots of service history and has had recent work done such as cam belt change in 2022. Recently just had a new thermostat and new road spring and tyres. It comes with a full MOT 29/08/24. Also has 3 rear seats instead of the normal 2. Would make a perfect first car or would be ideal for an A2 enthusiast as it is a lovely example of the A2. The car is very economical because of its aluminium construction which also has the benefit of not rusting. I will surely miss this car. £2000 Any questions please feel free to ask 🙂

Following 4 or 5 charging cycles the issue has gone away, so all good.

Was thinking about how many cars I've owned over the years and it comes to about 25. A large number of these have been VAG cars. Had quite a few old Beetles, T25 and T4 campers and Audis. So the Audis I've owned are :- a nice Mk1 TT 1.8T 225 in black which felt like a pocket rocket post box to drive , a silver A6 C5 saloon 2.5TDi, a blue A6 C5 avant 3.0 petrol which had such a flexible smooth engine and currently I have a low mileage black A6 C6 saloon 2.0TDi which although not very sexy is probably the most fuel friendly car I've ever owned. I try to do a lot of the maintenance myself, regular servicing of fluids, filters and brakes. I also have a go at fixing the odd niggly things that go wrong now and again, which leads me to why I've been searching these forums over the last few days. The front wipers on my current A6 C6 abruptly stopped working mid wipe. So I've been diagnosing where the problem seems to be and trying to work out how to fix. Will check out the forums on here and see if I can find the appropriate topic.

Unless you have VCDS or equivalent to recode the battery details into the correct blocks you will have all sorts of problems throw up on the dash, RING an independent garage and get them to quote to fit it for you, I wouldn't use either of the 2 tyre centres you have had quotes from nor Halfords, as none of them know how to correctly code the battery in, and as Gareth has said, a garage will supply and fit what they get from the local motor factors, unless of course you ask for a certain battery, also garages like shops have to mark up their prices to RRP to make a living, before we had the internet you would only get garage prices, unless you knew where to go to get a better deal, now you can get prices less than RRP online

Hi its probably a built in function as most oils only give maximum protection when at optimum temp, some of the new Bentlys, Alfa Romeos and Feraris have stickers in the car telling you to warm the engine at idle for at least ten mins before driving, I would get that drive system light checked its yellow so not urgent but the gearbox has nothing to do with the engine temp, in saying that the oldest saying in the car world is NEVER REV A COLD ENGINE, thats because of the damage it causes to internal revolving surfaces which have yet to heat up to operating tollerences, cold oil at high rpm is as bad as no oil only in reverse, I found that out a few years ago in the eighties when at massive cost I built a go faster Mini engine, billet steel crank lightened con rods, super Hepolite pistons the works, my only downfall was jacking the oil pressure relief valve so it ran at 95psi when warm, two months later I had big end knock where the oil cold ran at over 100psi and had washed the coating off of the end shells, moral of the story most cars are quite happy with oil pressure of around 40psi as long as the oil temp is at optimum. Steve.

Sorry lads - it was my first post and I couldn't edit it. I hope next one will be better 😉 I am not sure at the moment I explained it correctly. The best way is to go to the car and check: If everything is OK and foglights are off FOUR brake lights bulbs are activated while braking. When fog lights are on ONLY TWO brake light bulbs are activated. And imagine the situation: two brake lights are broken (bulbs blown) and two are disconnected (because fog lights are on) You have no brake lights on the back. Regards - Peter

WIll start the online research and let you know once I have a solution. Just wathcing a youtube video of a guy doing it through obdeleven, and will give it a go myself tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks

I have experienced my drivers door not opening from the outside and inside, but never both at the same time! On two occasions, in really cold weather the central locking opened all doors except the drivers door. This lasted a few weeks after which it miraculously worked again. Audi quoted me £400 to replace the lock, but I just wait it out. The inside failure was just a snapped cable, which was relatively easy to replace. A couple of obvious questions. Have you tried opening it with a key? The other thing to try is the MMI allows you to select what doors are opened by the central locking, front only or all. Try toggling it a few times to see if that changes anything. Sorry, but can't think of anything else to suggest. The bolts that secure the lock are only accessible with the door open, so it's a catch 22 situation. I wonder what an Audi dealer would do? It may be worth asking them, they may give you some ideas.

Could you try a public charger?

Hi don't bother with the expensive gizmos as it will only make the handling wayward, invest in a set of standard Avant springs as I believe the S Line is 25-30mm lowered from the factory, you will have to get it re aligned on a HUNTER four wheel tracking machine, change the front and rear springs otherwise it will dive at the front when braking. Steve.

I've bought a sensor from eBay to keep in the car 😀 I'm not going to tempt fate by messing around with something that isn't broken. It doesn't appear to be the 'A' version however for £15 it might prevent a bigger issue. Edit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334119302412?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uI6ymBN1QH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hello Graeme, Obviously the situation is intolerable, but to me, the emphasis should be on obtaining suitable substitutes rather than concentrating on how/why Audi has allowed this situation to deteriorate - that is not being progressive. If this were mine, I would concentrating my efforts on inspecting the faulty component (pipe?) and thinking about some better mode of repair than resin goo. Surely a reliable repair/modification would not be beyond the scope of a small engineering shop. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Welcome and thanks for joining. Try entering your registration number into ‘Parts in Motion’ website, and they should come up with a variety of brands of parts. In terms of rear suspension bushes, just go for the complete arms - they are that expensive. Incase it helps, I’ve used Febi parts to good avail. I wouldn’t buy on cheapest will do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I don’t have any connection with Parts in Motion, except having bought a variety of parts off them and had a good service and competitive prices.

Hi I have never bought a refurbished injector off eBay my first port of call is always United Diesels in the U.K, not only do they have a phone number but you always get a ton of good advice and any refurbished items always arrive in airtight packaging and look brand new you also get any deposit back in record time, most eBay ratings are based on friend and family reviews, the refurbishment of Piezo injectors like I think yours are requires a very special knowledge and equipment, Steve.

Many thanks for the suggestions chaps, turned out I had stuffed up the timing by a few teeth 😱 Stripped it all down again and retraced my steps, timed it all correctly and she started first time. Perhaps the cam sensors prevented her from firing to protect the engine (thank goodness) running sweeter than ever now. cheers Sam

Hello Fakher, I think it’s time for you to do your homework. LUK is a prime brand, so I would go with that. There are cheaper alternatives, but I wouldn’t fit them. LUK should do a kit which will include the release bearing/ concentric slave cylinder - same thing. Suggest you search EBay and/or other factors such as Car Parts in Motion - there are more. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.