Leaderboard

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

@Steph1234 my dealership is Huntingdon Audi. I am awaiting a response from Ferzana from Audi Executive, she's written to apologise for the delay, no surprise they are inundated with complaints!

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

All within half an inch to have missed it Colin - I feel sorry for him - it could happen to any of us. Perhaps we have more choice down this end of Wales, but £880 to deal with a minor-ish short scrape, does seem a little heavy on the pencil, as we say down here. Still, it’s done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Andrew - ive not done this work but have stripped and re-roofed a car so I've been there,- removing the headlining is not that easy but I fancy with roof half open you may get enough slack and access to remove and replace rams. You can wedge the roof in this position 'half' - usually without damaging things- and you need wedge because it won't stay there. The key thing is that youll have to top up fluid in the pump and to get access most of the boot's lining may have to come out. None's too difficult but time consuming and so potentially expensive. There's no one i'd recommend. There are good hood trimmers but few may want the mechanical work. You'll need green hyd fluid for the pump and it must be filled to a set level, which you can just about see with your head on the boot floor.

Hello all, I've recently bought the most poverty spec 230k mile A6 in the world! It's a 2.0 TDI, with no bluetooth, no parking sensors, no reversing camera, no leather/electric/heated seats, no map based Sat-Nav! But at least it works, and I quite like it, and it's the cheapest car to run (per mile) of any car I've recently owned! 🙂 (Until diesel prices increase that is.) It is an Audi however, so it does have a check engine light on. It throws codes for an engine mount solenoid, the front passenger door control module (which doesn't unlock the door) and a low battery voltage, so if anyone knows a good place to pickup cheap engine mounts and door control modules let me know! I have made some changes to it, Full oil change, new front brakes, new tyres all round and wind deflectors. I'd love some decent alloys and coil overs in the future, and maybe tint the rear windows. 🙂

just removed my large front undertray this morning but this is on an audi a4 b8 2011 similar to above but used a torx 25 bit mine are certain type torx screws where you just turn them twice and they are loose enough to pull out.there are 3 torx screws at the back of the tray and 3 at each side of the tray and then i am able to slide the try out backwards....note(if in your case) how the front part of the tray slots in place when putting it back with 2 slots going inside the small tray at the front and two slots stay on the outside of the tray....(note this and take a picture before removing.....you may just need to remove the 3 rear screws(again if in your case) and be able to grab the brush head but it will still mean jacking the car up and putting axle stands under.local garage might be helpful and only charge a small amount.easy enough job for me to do.

Hi nice to find another member that knows their fuel, I learned this long ago from a petro chemist I had in my cab, cetane / octane use of additives can only do more good than harm as they in moderation increase both, its all about increasing thermal burn rate which in real terms actually means lowing it down so it burns more efficiently leaving less unburnt fuel, more bang for your buck, supermarket fuel is blended down using fillers and detergent this gives more volume to the saleable amount IE 20000 litres is increased by 20%, but because detergent is water based it burns far less efficiently leaving more unburnt fuel and moisture which leaves all that sticky tar in the EGR valves on petrol and diesel, further problem being nearly all engines are direct injection so the recycled gas tends to coat the inlet valve backs therefore more sticky gunge in the stream will eventually exacerbate the problem, good dry efficient burn is good, sticky wet moisture laden bad burn is not. Steve.

Good point, but as I don't yet own a Q5 but am looking to buy, I obviously have questions but can't help with answers. I have contributed plenty on other forums, for which I am or have been an owner

This is what you have to remove to replace the whole thing. The other picture is the new pipe unit minus the thermostat but please note the three screw holes on the right for the screws, and last but not least the rubbish silicate bag, what soon thought that was a good idea is anybodies guess.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Thanks Darren, I always find a telephone chat is the best. Personally, I wouldn’t use anything other than LUK/ Sachs. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed Greg, and welcome to the forum, and your kind comments are very much appreciated - it does mean a lot. Your car really does look to be a fine example. Just keep in touch if you think there is anything else we can help with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Finally...the end to the saga. Car arrives at the dealership tomorrow and picking it up 3rd Jan. The good news it only took 4 months from ordering to deliver and not six months forecast. I still can't believe that an organisation the size of vw/audi can't/won't provide their customers with more information on the status of their cars or even have a basic user access where you key in an order number and it returns a status code.....at least you'd know what was happening. Anyway, good luck to those still waiting, fingers crossed but I'm out of here now 🙂

Hi Granola, Followed your clear instructions to the letter. This solved the problem immediately. So grateful for that. Best Wishes for Christmas and the New Year. Happy Audi motoring to everyone. 🚗

Great news you've got this sorted. What is the part number for the sensor? Do you have a photo of it's location? It would be really helpful should anyone else have the same issue.

Found it! Off the main screen go to user then user management then remove all users. It does cut off my access to Audi connect but it removes the message.

Hi don't bother with the expensive gizmos as it will only make the handling wayward, invest in a set of standard Avant springs as I believe the S Line is 25-30mm lowered from the factory, you will have to get it re aligned on a HUNTER four wheel tracking machine, change the front and rear springs otherwise it will dive at the front when braking. Steve.

Many thanks for the suggestions chaps, turned out I had stuffed up the timing by a few teeth 😱 Stripped it all down again and retraced my steps, timed it all correctly and she started first time. Perhaps the cam sensors prevented her from firing to protect the engine (thank goodness) running sweeter than ever now. cheers Sam

Update it's been a long time since the original post so I thought I would update what I did after removing the cam carrier and with all valves closed, the pressure test was not conclusive in that it passed the initial test on all cylinders but failed a repeat test, I suspected that the pressure tester was faulty. I tested it in a closed circuit and it leaked I assumed that the original test was OK and that the second failed test was due to breakdown of the of the tester. Having taken off the cam carrier the problem was cam timing setup so purchased a gig but it was impossible to accurately set them up with this bit of kit after a long process the suppliers gave me a refund after sending the unit back. What I did to time the cams:- I used the cam carrier one cam has a horizontal slot in it so I used small bit of steel and a feeler gauge to get the cam perfectly horizontal in the cam carrier I then offered up the second cam to the carrier using a long socket on a flat surface of that cam to set the indents in that cam in the complete vertical position then checking the other cam with the long socket. Having setup the cams i now fabricated a holder or cam clamp very simple two pieces of wood with four holes in each piece setting the strips of wood so they would not inter fear with the installation I passed two medium cable ties through each piece of wood so that they secured the cams to the the carrier (My Cam Holder Gig). It worked flawlessly. My TT back on the road and running well.

Hello - whoever you are? The main moderator on here more often than not welcomes newly joined members with his view that we are a friendly bunch - which I like to think we are, or at least we try to be. Saying it as it is, or at least as I see it, it disappoints to hear opinion that ….’Seem to (too) that this site is dead.’ We all do our best when we can with the knowledge we have, and indeed spend quite a bit of time doing it. This very much a personal view, but my dislike is for first time posters not to register their actual names, and to be flippant with their actual location - such as ‘Earth’. It just renders them anonymous, and non approachable. Again as I see it, you joined and posted your plea for assistance on the same day 14 days ago. David gave his time to try to respond to you yesterday, yet you rebuke that assistance by letting us know ‘too late - I fixed it two weeks ago’ - must have been the day you joined and posted then! Apologies we couldn’t have given you an instant reply ChatYBB - or whoever. Please excuse the rather direct reply, which may not reflect the views of the forum in general. Kind regards, Gareth.