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  1. New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.
    6 points
  2. We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).
    5 points
  3. From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊
    4 points
  4. Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.
    4 points
  5. Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.
    4 points
  6. Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe
    4 points
  7. Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.
    3 points
  8. Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.
    3 points
  9. Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem
    3 points
  10. i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg
    3 points
  11. Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container
    3 points
  12. Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.
    3 points
  13. Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony
    3 points
  14. I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!
    3 points
  15. Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC
    3 points
  16. My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950
    3 points
  17. Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.
    3 points
  18. You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early
    3 points
  19. Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!
    3 points
  20. Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.
    3 points
  21. After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.
    3 points
  22. Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK
    3 points
  23. So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter
    3 points
  24. I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan
    3 points
  25. Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂
    3 points
  26. Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.
    3 points
  27. Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse
    3 points
  28. Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.
    3 points
  29. Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.
    2 points
  30. happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁
    2 points
  31. Not sure whether anyone will be interested in this but I just thought I would post my musings on our 4 week tour to Germany in our Q8. We just returned on Wednesday after crossing over on the Shuttle four weeks ago and making our way to Dortmund for our first overnight stop . Then we headed south to the little town of Parsbeg in Bavaria whjre we stayed for several days. Then up into the mountains of Bavaria to stay at Berchtesgaden for 5 days. We then crossed back to Berlin for a few days and then onto the wonderful city of Dresden where we stayed for a week. Finally we headed to a favourite Schlosshotel of ours in Lower Saxony whe re we stayed for 8 days. And then a leisurely drive heading for home for the same overnight in Dortmund before we spent 3 days in the little Belgian town of Ypres. I have a great Uncle who is buried in the Commonwealth War Graves Cemery at Tyne Cot. If anyone wants to visit a site that will take your breath away visit this cemetry. The number of young British Tommies buried here who perished in the mud of Paschendale wil make you weep . I have to say that although my missus and I have been touring Germany in the car for many years the road network of the country has deteriated a little in the last few years. Not so much you understand as the apalling state that the UK roads are in now. Many more speed restrictions and repairs on their Autobahn sytem now. However the overiding opinion was that their autobahns, their A and B roads are still in a superb state compared to our roads. Great signage,billiard smooth surfaces, well engineered cambers etc. Also the standard of driving on the Autobahns is so much higher than here. Precise signalling to either come out in a lane or back in again and an almost 100 % compliance to speed restrictions . The only thing I would say is that if you do get in the big boys outside lane on the unrestricted stuff to overtake slower traffic, even though you are probably doing 120 mph, the fast boys behind doing 140/150 plus will try to bully you to get back inside ! And also just maybe the UK registration and sticker does provoke some just a tad ! The car went well. We ticked over from 8000 miles to over 1000. Comfortable and just about fast enough. We had theusual software gliches that any Audi owber recognises nowadays. Lost the top screen one time as it just got stuck trying to initialsie. Then I lost my user identity " thingy " at start up one time so when I started the car my preference didnt kick in. Nothing too nasty and all sorted by a quick reboot by starting the car up again. The most annoying thing was a repeated loud bong and red warning triangle and exclamation mark in the drivers panel warninf of " limited visibilty " ! This came onquite a few times on the Autobahn when the minimum visibilty was at the very least 300 metres and more. God bless the EU eh in forcing he manufacturers in giving us that. Hope ths is of interest. If not just ignore. Frank
    2 points
  32. Going on full VCDS fault code read this Friday, talking to numerous Gearbox specialists and the excellent guys at "ECUtestingltd" (Excellent You Tube Video for anyone else with similar issues on here ) who really know these 7 speed S-Tronic gearboxes and Mechatronic units inside out ( and in fact do various work for Audi Main Agents ) it seems my symptoms point heavily towards a Mechatronic fault, maybe the pressure sensors, valves or most likely the circuit board itself just starting to break down and sending the wrong pulses at the wrong time ........ know more once we've pulled the codes, then hopefully its just a case of removing the Mechatronic unit and sending it off to be completely reworked with new hard and software.
    2 points
  33. Thanks again John, Through all my responses , I haven’t excused the reason for your dissatisfaction, and it certainly would be great to encourage the interchange you seek. I’m pretty sure I have made two requests to you to suggest ways to improve this, but regrettably, nothing has been forthcoming, so come on John, what are your progressive suggestions. As our Welsh poet says ‘Look on our good side, not our bad’. Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  34. I did thanks - and not quite sure how I did it. I think it was the following.... I opened the car with the working key. I put the broken key in the ignition, pressed the unlock button and turned the key on. Then took the key out and pressed the lock button and the car locked. All is fine now.
    2 points
  35. It was the thermostat !! Thanks guys
    2 points
  36. They claim it's sealed for life but It can be serviced and should be at 40k. I'd recommend you look at an independent Audi specialist
    2 points
  37. In my opinion the valve stems are undoubtedly bent, in which case the pistons and conrods may well be damaged also. Take the head off and inspect the pistons crowns closely. If there is any sign of contact between valves and crowns you will then need to remove the sump and pull the pistons out to inspect the rods.
    2 points
  38. Your choice of course Lance, but if the flywheel is only contaminated with fluid it is 30 second job to clean it. If it is worn that would be a different matter, though wear seems unlikely at 64000 miles unless you have been driving a slipping clutch for a long time.
    2 points
  39. I'm not sure what size of wheel you currently have, but Audi have told me that I can definitely come down from my 21" wheels to 19", which is what I wanted.
    2 points
  40. Cheers Gareth 😊 it gets hammered daily because I’ve a 60 mile round trip commute to work and it’s my first “premium brand” car so I make sure it gets plenty of TLC in return. Had it 2 years and so far only visits to the garage have been for wear and tear replacements and routine servicing however had I have not found you guys on here the fault I mentioned would’ve been an expensive trip, someone mentioned a dealer charging around £350 😬 so again massively grateful and will seek advice on here if whenever I need it in the future 👍
    2 points
  41. Hi Yara is not discontinued it just morphed into Halfords own brand, two 5ltr pouches for £20 the clue is on the packaging where it says made by YARA in small letters at the back of it with their viking logo.
    2 points
  42. My dealer was west London Audi. They are the ones I bought my car from originally. they initially charged me £500 but then raised a complaint with Audi UK who refunded me that after a few weeks.
    2 points
  43. It must be all those fire breathing dragons Gareth. Audis can't take the heat. Happy Christmas. Cliff.
    2 points
  44. Hey, I've done about 5k miles with the 17" run flat tyres and I can say they are alright. Not great though. Because for the first couple thousand miles I was wondering why the hell the steering at high speeds became so imprecise and wobbly. Like when doing long smooth bends on A roads, I had to basically "catch" the car as if it was constantly trying to steer out of the lane. Then I switched the steering from "comfort" to that other mode ("sport"?) and almost immediately felt a relief. It either got better, or I just learned to live with it. As for the ride, 17" run flats don't feel any better than 19" regular tyres on bumpy roads. I can't tell for sure since it's been a long time, but it's almost exactly the same. In the end, the only thing I gained with this replacement is the peace of mind. Perhaps it is worth it. Although, almost no one seems to be repairing even absolutely innocent punctures in run flat tyres in this country 🥶 If I were doing the replacement again, I'd probably go for 18" or even keep the original 19" wheels and buy runflats anyway.
    2 points
  45. Hi I agree with Steve and Gareth on both options, can you specify what has failed as if its a pipe its either repairable or substituted with a different material with a similar bore, if you look at it I wouldn't mind betting your system is exactly the same as the A4/A5/A6 I think its a safe bet as VAGs love of globalisation means one part fits a load of other models, I to am a cabbie and I know exactly where you are coming from, I feel for you I really do, no car is like someone has cut your throat financially, I have come across this none in the country for your vehicle CR@P loads of times as with my engine mounts, ended up buying FEBI units which also fitted the A4 with a CNHA engine, oh no I was told by the main stealer they wont last, 70k later says no difference. If you get in a jam just get the adblue mapped out until you can get the parts its a lot cheaper than being off the road for six months. Steve.
    2 points
  46. By way of an update - I was able to connect my iPod via Bluetooth but due to its age only with limited functionality. I was advised to make use of the CarPlay system which works in conjunction with an iPhone. Now I am able to create playlists on the iPhone which can be called up in the car. Sadly it seems now that the iPod is fast becoming obsolete.
    2 points
  47. Went with your suggestion of Yara Ad Blue Steve. PSA for anyone following, Halfords have 3 x pouch’s for £19.98 at the moment. Got the dash message to add ‘at least’ 6 litres within 1500 miles yesterday so I’m already 2 down. I have done about 1000 miles in a couple of weeks so I’ll be interested to see how much I’m using.
    2 points
  48. Thanks all for your comments. Will see what happens in 3500miles. If inspection light comes up I will reset this with my OBDII tool. Will continue to get car serviced every 12months, which is approx 7k miles
    2 points
  49. Thanks everyone for the help, it's now booked in to get belt, tensioners, water pump and alternator belt done next wk.
    2 points
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