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New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Not been on here or the car for a while been very busy with work and personal things but got back on it today and it's all together so hopefully I can turn her over tomorrow

Andrew - ive not done this work but have stripped and re-roofed a car so I've been there,- removing the headlining is not that easy but I fancy with roof half open you may get enough slack and access to remove and replace rams. You can wedge the roof in this position 'half' - usually without damaging things- and you need wedge because it won't stay there. The key thing is that youll have to top up fluid in the pump and to get access most of the boot's lining may have to come out. None's too difficult but time consuming and so potentially expensive. There's no one i'd recommend. There are good hood trimmers but few may want the mechanical work. You'll need green hyd fluid for the pump and it must be filled to a set level, which you can just about see with your head on the boot floor.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

The thermostat does not control the fans, that is the job of the temperature sensor. (Strictly speaking, any switch that is controlled by temperature is a thermostat, but let's not be distracted by that as it is contrary to convention in cars.) That the indicated temperature goes no higher than 70 without the fans suggests to me that either the thermostat remains open all the time or that the temperature reading is wrong. Does the temperature reading drop to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold? Do you have a way to independently measure the temperature using a hand held infra red meter for example? At this stage I can not say whether the ECON fault is related to the temperature fault. I suggest you ignore it for the moment, but bear it in mind if you get other indications of a general electrical problem.

Thanks again John for your understanding. I think through all of this, lessons have to be learnt, and as I keep saying you are indeed right - the forum interchange between members is restricted to a relative few, and is unfortunately dwarfed by the number of quests for assistance. Let me come clean - my non-Audi is a Jaguar, the current being the fourth in as many decades, and I have first hand knowledge of the member to member interchange (and banter) on the forum there - it is great, albeit often off topic! , but it is an interchange. So I know full well what you mean. If only we could encourage such interchange on here. It’s pleasing to hear you intend to buy a Q5, and I wish you well in your search, and we really hope the forum maybe of some use to you once you have found the right one. Take care. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks mate. Yeah it was actually 3 of them, a bloke, a kid and an elderly lady. The buyer distracted me to the rear of the car and the old woman did the sabotage with the kid looking out. Romanians. reported to the Met Police who booked a visit to my home, then never bothered to show up or call me back. Says it all.

So finally got around to sorting this been very busy with work for the past few months, the oil pump and the balance shaft cradle both have machined mating faces with no gaskets, I have also replaced the balance shaft with a kmb uprated version, and as you can see in the photos the oil pick up had a good amount of sealant clogging it up!!! So fingers crossed when it all goes back together , no low oil pressure warning , if it is still there it means the engine is badly worn which I just don't have the time to delve into.....

Hi there are two thermostats one on the water pump which is prone to sticking open, if its a cn engine and has the solid inlet manifold the other thermostat is under that that one controls the cabin heat and you can change it without removing the manifold just buy a new core unit and seal, I did mine on my A6 similar engine it fiddly but doable, also posted pics of parts and how to in the A6 C7 part of the forum. Steve.

All done now really happy but now thinking of renewing warranty in August using Motor Easy as they deal with consequential damage which many companies don’t any thoughts on this company I believe they used to be Warranties Direct

Thanks Darren, I always find a telephone chat is the best. Personally, I wouldn’t use anything other than LUK/ Sachs. Kind regards, Gareth.

Stranger here but no stranger to Audi, have had a number going back years - the last one an A8 4.0TDi - prior to that an A6 Avant, fancied a change so deserted to Jaguar having been a Jag fan since I got my first long trousers but could never afford one- yeh I am ancient. Anyhow After 9 years in Jaguars - an ZF SV8 and an XJL I've had enough, the itch has been scratched, I was going to get into a Bentley or even a Rolls but I happened upon something that interested me. Bottom line I just dropped some coin on a 2015 S4 black edition Avant which is currently in 'preparation', car is already stage 1, just getting a full service and a couple of jobs done. I've had a VAG product in some shape or form for the last 30 or so years - we also run a Passat B7 Estate - but a sensible 2.0TDi - I don't know how many here work on their own vehicles but I try to do 90% of my own stuff, have owned VCDS for a very long time, never had to code anything as I always had a tame VW tech in my pocket that had the access to handle such things, alas he retired and is no longer able. Anyhow happen I'll be around for a bit to see what the scene here is like.

Welcome Xenon, Sorry to hear about your issue, and the garage’s difficulty in resolving it. Possibly too simplistic, but I wonder whether the rear end electrical issues are a coincidence, and not actually related to the work done. If it were mine, I would be eliminating the possibility that the issue is due to fractured wires in the flexible harness section twixt the body and the tailgate. This is a favourite place for wires to fracture after many years of opening and closing - particularly in this cold weather. Always worth an eliminating look at. Similar inspection with flexible section leading into the driver door. Perhaps you could let us know how they get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Happy birthday Kev! I feel we've all taken more than our fair share of batterings in 2023. Let's hope 2024 is more healthy and prosperous

Found it! Off the main screen go to user then user management then remove all users. It does cut off my access to Audi connect but it removes the message.

In case it helps anyone, I managed to sort this myself. Swapped the light units and still had the error message when the working right side unit was connected to the left. Assumed it was therefore a wiring problem so took off the boot hinge trim and went searching. Quickly found a broken wire at a bent bit of the wiring loom. Fixed the wire and made sure the wiring loom was properly reseated in the trim. 20 minute job and I'm very much a novice.

Hi I think you answered your Question in the last sentence which equates to not a lot, all these engines were tested to destruction and when they break they take them to pieces to find out what caused the failure, they strengthen the offending part and up the torque/ BHP slightly, if it works well they just keep upping the power to way past the intended production run power, then whatever the engine has achieved up to 45% above the production Torque/BHP if it runs ok they reduce that figure by 45% to the production run power, thats your reliability factor, if you bear this in mind with the age of your car you are just putting more strain on an old engine thats made it this far with no real issues/wear and I bet if it all goes pear shaped and bits start failing he wont want to know unless it involves more money. Steve.

Had the exact same issue with my 2010 Audi A4 Avant 2.0 tdi 143bhp a few years back. Ended up having to change both thermostats to sort issue out.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

I have reluctantly come to the decision that I must give up driving, as my macular degeneration is making it very difficult to see things/people in marginal light conditions, and my insurers have indicated that they are “unable to offer renewal terms for the coming year”. (July onwards) This means that I am looking for a new home for my much loved Audi A6 Allroad 4.2 litre V8, LPG converted (ULEZ compliant) LC04EOK Audi A6 Allroad 4.2 litre V8 LPG converted - bifuel ULEZ compliant) Milage186,300 MOT till 23/12/2023 Refurbished gearbox fitted by TES Transmissions June 2022 at180,000 miles Timing chain renewed December 2020 at175,530 miles Kenwood double din DAB radio fitted (Original CD Changer still in boot but not connected) LPG tank sits in spare wheel well. Audi inflatable spare available (never been used) Fitted with Gamaparts 16 inch alloys with 215 /65R16 102V Michelin Cross Climates Original set of Audi 18 inch Alloys 245/45R8 100Y Goodyear Efficient Grip available Sliding roof incorporates solar panel that powers ventilation fan when engine not running. Audi dog guard fitted. Also available Audi retractable rear cargo divider & Rigid liner for boot area.

By way of an update - I was able to connect my iPod via Bluetooth but due to its age only with limited functionality. I was advised to make use of the CarPlay system which works in conjunction with an iPhone. Now I am able to create playlists on the iPhone which can be called up in the car. Sadly it seems now that the iPod is fast becoming obsolete.