Stevey Y

Hi just go in the dealers throw it at the parts guy and say got one of these, no sense in paying £90 to talk to an idiot, become a cab driver like me and the idiots pay you. Steve.

Hi the nozzle that is under the cap is probably sold as a repair section as the nozzle would have to unplug from the top of the wiper spindle to facilitate removal of the wiper arm, try the dealers. Steve.

Hi this could be a bit tricky as most of these are mechanical faults there are several technical service bulletins for these faults, Audi are obviously aware of this problem as it applies to two other models Q5/A4 and on some occasions has been solved with a software update, what diagnostics platform are you using as if its VCDS you can test the function of each components operation to nail down which one is not working for example B11AF07 is the fresh air flap under the front scuttle where the air comes in and is mechanical,B109207 is the regulator motor for air recirculation which is at its end stop which is also adjustable on VCDS.

Hi can you give the codes and I may be able to fish out what is relevant the flap control unit will have nothing to do with the blower not working that just aims the air at the vents you select, have you got power at the blower motor, were the units tried new or second hand? Steve.

This is what you have to remove to replace the whole thing. The other picture is the new pipe unit minus the thermostat but please note the three screw holes on the right for the screws, and last but not least the rubbish silicate bag, what soon thought that was a good idea is anybodies guess.

Hi gents, in the recent cold snap the heater would not really warm up for a couple of hours even after driving for most of that time, finally ran it down to a lazy thermostat which was just staying open more than desired so consequently it only got what I would class as really warm about an hour before I booked off for the day, a good quality replacement stat core is about £60 but Audi only sell it as the whole pipe with a new core about £90 so I went for that considering my existing unit had done 180k so therefore I could expect at least that again, now begins the horror of replacement you have to take the inlet manifold off to get at it so I opted for the cheat and unbolted the old thermostat housing its only three torx screws and an extension bar all 1/4 drive, I recently purchased some magnetic torx bits, the best thing since sliced bread, took the new housing apart and and cannibalised the the new core with seal and cap, job done, then discovered the Silicate bag in the expansion tank had ruptured so ended up having to back flush the heater matrix with a jet wash.

Hi are we talking that amazingly usless item that operates the vent position flaps.

Hi I have found from experience that changing the oil and filters can turn the box into wonderful again or throw in age related faults, I agree with what the gearbox guy said as vary rarely the new oil can dislodge bits of matter inside the casing which will take time to settle again, in saying that even though you have lowish milage things deteriorate with age and with that in mind metal fatigue on the moving parts of the clutch on your vehicle is a real possibility which the previous owner was well aware of, thank you for the offer of travel to me but it would be an exercise in futility as unless I can get inside the box to measure the float tolerances on the flywheel I can only tell you what you already know, my honest opinion is that the clutch is the problem but common sense says you will have to replace the flywheel as well as they wear as a set. Steve.

If it is the clutch the bill will be quite steep, its not the parts its the labour,

Hi the company is called ECU Testing and repairs mechatronic units and dash pods as well as ABS units just google the company name and contact, it will come up. Steve.

Hi you mentioned yours is auto yes it has a DMF and yes you can get the mechatronics unit refurbished for not to much money at ECU testing.

Hi the greasing of the calliper could be a problem as you should not grease the back of the pads as they are fitted with a high temp rubber anti squeal cover which when heated semi bonds to the outer part of the calliper, the same with the piston side which also has the steel insert for the piston inner but the outer edge of the piston also bonds with the rubber backing on the pad, I think your brake knock is due to wear on the brake carrier as the locating pins for the pad guides wear and allow movement between the pad and carrier. Steve.

Hi you can reset the oil service interval on the MMI its simple enough and most small indie garages can do the oil change. Steve.

Hi it may well be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as if that goes sideways it will throw up codes for the high pressure side as its not getting enough fuel, the throttle valve is probably gummed up but in saying that what is your engine code?, that will have a bearing on your problems as to its operating systems they throw up different codes, to be fair I think the price you were quoted is over what a normal garage would quote by several miles, if you can get me your engine version I can probably get you some sane prices on the parts, the only worrying code is p2002 as thats the low pressure egr cooler thats a nasty thing to replace, the only real way to dig in to this is get it read with VCDS as that supplies the date and time of the fault and it could be that some of these faults are very old and no longer current, I have found this with my car as the milage racks up you get odd random codes which when deleted never rear their ugly head again, ask for a breakdown of what he is actually going to do for the £1850.00 + vat

Hi if you give one of the guys on here a personal message I am sure he will be able to help, its AUDIA4 Kev he h is mine of info, if I have it wrong please contact Magnet as he will have the correct messaging details.

Hi it would be incredibly helpful if you can publish the codes furthermore the statement legal would lead me to believe that you are dealing with what's known in your area as SCALLYS, its not legal and if you don't believe me google it and read the ton of information on that subject, somewhere in the paperwork when you sign it will be a disclaimer saying you told them it was not going to be used on public roads anymore, furthermore a delete should only cost a max of £500, chances are your light has more to do with p2002 which is the EGR cooler but without codes how long is a piece of string. Steve.

Hi no worries, have seen this before where you disconnect something and it blows something else, the wiring on all Audis is over complex but it pays to look at the simple things first, I have even had it where I had no illumination on a tail light but power coming in so replaced the bulb with a new one, still no light replaced the new one with an old bulb I had laying about and BINGO, turns out I had picked the only duff bulb in a box of ten, how's yer luck.

Hi I would take the re seal its a horrible job and requires a fair amount of specialist equipment allied to a world of patience.

Hi I think the fuses in the ECU theory is horse manure the units are security sealed with no access for the changing of any fuses even if you had it apart, lateral thinking asks why would you put a fuse [which will fail at some point] in a secure no access shell ?, I think someone has run out of solid plausible excuses, my first port of call would be to check the bulbs and power supply to the light units themselves if everything else is working chances are the bulbs have been shorted out if they removed any wiring plugs.

Hi the problem is that you have to see past the plug in and play bit, it is that way if you have the facility to code them in thats why the vendor offers that service in the description, the flickering is caused by the BCM trying to identify the new type of light by pulsing voltage but it can't achieve the correct voltage against its already learned voltage for the halogen units.

Hi having looked at the product its from a very reputable source, BUT if you read the advert for the cables it definitely states that they will need coding to the new car.

Hi you mentioned wiring kit, is it a kit with Canbus control, also were the headlights from the donor car in use recently or have they been standing for a while, also which bulbs do they use?

Hi you may have said leak behind the light but you did initially call it a headlight, I am sure you know what a light is but you can see Cliff and Gareths confusion from the earlier posts, we all know what a light is and what end each one goes, headlight front, tail light rear.

Hi just thought I would put this out there, I have been mulling this one over for the last couple of years and finally taken the plunge having spoken to a man who knows his wiring and discovered that 10w wont break the bank, the car uses D5s 25w bulbs as standard and these are pretty poor in the wet at night, I replaced the bulbs a couple of years ago with only a marginal improvement and a substantial cost, so after chatting to the Skoda electrician I now know that HID lights are now classed as the poor mans option versus LED units, I explained about my problem and he suggested using the 35w bulbs as these have more output and as long as they are 12v 35w D5s units they will be fine and also said I should get the 5500 kelvin rated bulb for maximum effect, I asked him why the o.e. manufacturers did not make these and he explained they do but the rating only goes to 4500 kelvin which they class as an upgrade and all dealer bulbs are now 5500-6000 kelvin rated because of the complaints about lighting from owners, enough I fitted an aftermarket set of bulbs two for the price of one Osram and I have now got at least fifty metres more usable light even in the worst rain/dark, as for longevity I will let you know. Steve.

Hi are the lights second hand? as this kind of symptom is normally caused by bulb/ballast failure, the flickering is caused by a lack of voltage continuity in either module.