Stevey Y

Hi I have never bought a refurbished injector off eBay my first port of call is always United Diesels in the U.K, not only do they have a phone number but you always get a ton of good advice and any refurbished items always arrive in airtight packaging and look brand new you also get any deposit back in record time, most eBay ratings are based on friend and family reviews, the refurbishment of Piezo injectors like I think yours are requires a very special knowledge and equipment, Steve.

Hi I think you will find thats the return to the tank looking at the middle picture I would say the infeed is the large banjo bolt to the right of the the pump, if you can't see the fuel moving through the return pipe that would suggest the lift pump, you will always see air bubbles in the clear pipe as thats the HPFP self bleeding and if the HPFP was getting fuel the bubble would move when cranking. Steve.

Hi most of the dates for these fault codes are prehistoric so I would delete the lot I bet they wont return, my guess would be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as this manifests itself as a high pressure pump issue as the low pressure side is not supplying enough fuel, easy to diagnose as if you get a container with about a litre of fuel and a suitable length of fuel hose and connect the hose to the intake side of the high pressure fuel pump with the container end elevated above the pump it should start if my theory is correct, before cranking give it a squirt of easy start just to get it going so the pump sucks fuel. Steve.

Hi the other route is to have an aftermarket regulator fitted, these are adjustable and are pretty much made to fit any car, I did that mod with an old Mini I had that wouldn't pass an MOT because of lack of brake pressure at the rear so just before every MOT I had to remove the guts from the regulator so it passed, lots of fun driving back in the rain with a tail happy car, finally bit the bullet and bought an aftermarket retro fit adjustable and never looked back. Steve.

Hi Jack just been on eBay and they have loads of them, what you really need is a photograph of the item or the part number on the old unit, looks like these fail fairly regularly as most of the ones I looked at covered from 1990-1999, try parts in motion on the net and see if they can match one to your car using your VIN number. Steve.

Hi it is still possible its a wrong un try fitting the old one and see what happens if its the same you could have a wiring problem at the plug on the main loom where it connects to the sensor. Steve.

Hi if you pull the wire off of the pressure sensor and it runs chances are it is the sensor gone as it has a default position for starting manually but is taking no signal voltage as its had it . Steve.

Hi I would start by replacing the valve on the front of the servo about ten mins work there is a massive post about these units on the forum under BAKE SERVO RESTRICTED other than that it could be a battery problem. Steve.

Hi I would say on the exhaust before the catalytic converter, normally a 19mm fixing with a wire cable in the middle. Steve.

Hi its possible that you have a dodgy sensor, not unknown, I have pulled them out of a new box and fitted them and had the same result, avoid NAPA or any of the own brand stuff on eBay you can't go wrong with a bit of FEBI/HELLA/BOSCH they might be a bit dearer but when fitted you will see where the extra money went. Steve.

Hi it depends on what your perception of expensive, the only other way round it is to get the journals white metal sprayed or inserts fitted by an engineers and a new camshaft, don't know how much that would be, a lesson again in the importance of oil pressure as it only has to be weak for a small amount of time for any metal to metal surface to pick up and score itself. Steve.

Hi re check the cam belt timing or did it run fine after the belt was changed and only play up after the sensor change. Steve.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

Hi remove the return pipe from the rail to the filter and see if there is fuel being returned if not it sounds like a lift pump problem, but in saying that I think you need an in depth scan on something like VCDS/Snap on to rule outing underlying cause that your existing reader may not pick up. Steve.

Hi get someone to push the flap closed while you pull the emergency release, keep it pulled and then get the other guy to release the flap. Steve.

Hi it could be the level sensor as Steve said these are attached to the lift pump in the rear under the rear seat I believe and are prone to getting perforated or the level sensor itself is faulty, try taking the pump out and lifting the float manually to see if the light goes out, if not it is because the graduation unit [electrical] has given up the ghost in which case it all comes as one unit. Steve.

Hi no such thing as a normal Audi parts quote or labour come to that and being as they source the parts from outside suppliers Bosch/Valeo it might be worth getting the part number and having a trawl on the net its probably less than half price they want. Steve.

Hi they only did front wheel drive/Quattro, if it is a Quattro it will have a badge to that effect on the tailgate other than that look underneath for a prop shaft which goes to the rear Haldex unit it will also have driveshafts on the rear, why not if its manual, in my considered opinion the manual box is better and you get far less problems than the power robbing auto units. Steve.

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car. Steve.

Hi think the unit will have to be re coded to the car unless its the same part number as the old unit. Steve.

Hi hopefully it was a good brand AGM battery you replaced it with other than that it could be the battery energy module gone wonky, best policy is get the car scanned for faults you may get a better idea of whats going on especially if they clear the old and new codes after as sometimes they will reappear as the ECU has logged them. Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply but I had to do some research my end, the battery charge oscillation is quite normal as when it assesses the battery is nearly at full charge it starts cutting back so it wont overcharge, as for the starting problem the general consensus is that its the fuel supply, could be the lift pump in the tank they become weaker with age and are prone to this type of problem as when warm they don't pump the fuel as efficiently. Steve.

Hi if its both discs its probably the wrong thickness discs, if its one side only its a seized calliper so you will have to replace that and the flexible hose as they have a habit of collapsing internally and holding the piston in the calliper on and then the heat kills the calliper. Steve.

Hi sounds like an earthing problem or the latching system is sticking, try it from the boot release on the tailgate but push the boot lid down whilst activating the release pad then still holding the release pad pull the lid up. Steve.

Hi Al thats nailed it if the throttle butterfly is sticking that would be your air leak [white smoke], take it off and try cleaning it I bet the butterfly is covered in black crud the circuit high bit is where its using all the power within its operating band to move the butterfly, which means it can't easily reach its idle protocol and will then stick open, worth having the gearbox cover off to check for broken gear teeth as they are made of nylon. Steve.