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Hi Doug, sounds like the bulb is going faulty...I think you will need to remove as much as possible to gain access but you could always try Halfords first, let them struggle with it, lol (bit cruel really). Cheers Trevor

Hi Steve...welcome to the Forum I would say the faults are not related. Firstly, the door lock could be a faulty solenoid or disconnected linkage from the solenoid. Secondly, the ignition switch could be faulty if it is not going to the first stage but haven't heard of this fault before. Anyone shed any light on this ???? Cheers Trevor

I think you're wise to wait around until the right one comes along. I had a similar situation with a Honda CRV that I bought this year...it took many evenings to deliberate over the colour, interior and overall specifications eventually narrowing it down to one particular vehicle...that was the easy bit, it was finding one (didn't even mind if it wasn't local) and then two came along at the same time after just one week of searching....sod's law !

I would be tempted to run the tyres at the 36/35psi recommended setting as the front will be heavier with the Diesel engine but the rears I may be tempted to lower them to nearer 30psi if its only you and minimal luggage.

Hi Gary...welcome to the Forum I agree with Gareth, the box needs diagnosing accurately by a specialist (not an Audi dealership) as sometimes it can be a simple (but maybe not cheap) repair. Keep us updated on progress Cheers Trevor

Hi Miles...welcome to the Forum Audi certainly do have great looks and performance to match. Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

Hi Jamie...welcome to the Forum Wow...that looks exceptionally clean and well looked after for its age! Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

Hi...and welcome to the Forum I hear the chains are an issue but if you find one that has had them replaced then that's a bonus, if not, maybe worth getting them done for peace of mind. Here's some info from Wikipedia giving an overview of the S4 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audi_S4 Let us know how you get on with your purchase Cheers Trevor

Hi Dave...welcome to the Forum Decisions, decisions! Tough one to advise on, but if it was me I would go with the Diesel (if your journeys allow the extended use of a diesel engine to keep it clean and running well) and the paddle shift transmission on the later cars seem to be quite reliable but then so is a manual (except for potential Dual Mass Flywheel failure). Your decision but I would look at the journeys you are making and decide on the engine/transmission combination accordingly. Let us know how you get on with your decision. Cheers Trevor

Hi Mike...welcome to the Forum That's an odd one! Maybe the communication system is not correctly set up for the new wheel or if the slip ring is slightly different? Apart from that, it can't be much else. Have you tried measuring the voltage at the horn when activated from the wheel? Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Hi Neil...welcome to the Forum I would say that overall, the Audi Techies have had a fair crack at the whip and if they can't find a definitive answer then rather than blindly stripping an engine down to possibly not find any further clues...I would take the car back, thank them and then take it to a good independent VW Audi specialist who may have a bit more of an idea whats causing the misfires. I know it sounds strange but if it's not the coils or cylinders or intake causing the fault, has anyone checked the exhaust system...as in the flow of gases and temperature of the cat because if there is a blockage this can sometimes result in a slight misfire/poor combustion at idle...worth checking as no parts or expensive tests. Keep us informed on the progress . Cheers Trevor

Hi Mark..welcome to the Forum Great looking car ! I would advise if in doubt, get it replaced for peace of mind Let us know how you go with this Cheers Trevor

Hi Steve...welcome to the Forum Wow! that's a major fail. How on earth did the rear wheel almost come off? Was it case of loose wheel nuts or is it a wheel bearing failure? I can't see how the power supply would have any effect on the wheel coming loose unless it is pure coincidence. The immediate thing to look at would be the battery as this is obviously discharging and causing the electrical system to throw up faults. Keep us updated on how this is progressing Cheers Trevor

If it is coming on intermittently then it may be a loose/poor connection at the sensor/wire causing the light to come on.

Hi Albert...welcome to the Forum Not entirely sure if you can change it easily but with the MMI SatNav if it knows you are in a RHD or LHD zone (e.g. UK or Europe) then it should display the correct setting. If not, then a specialist Audi repairer should be able to permanently alter it by plugging in the correct diagnostic equipment to alter vehicle settings. Worth checking the Handbook first just to see if it is something you can quickly change. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Bob....welcome to the Forum Looking forward to reading your posts as a member now :-) Pop up a piccy of your new Audi, if you'd like to. Cheers Trevor

Hi Liam...welcome to the Forum Keep us updated with your potential purchase Cheers Trevor

How about this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/222099883907?clk_rvr_id=1135243062072&vectorid=229508&lgeo=1&item=222099883907&rmvSB=true

Hi Ray...welcome to the Forum Looking forward to reading your posts in the future and feel free to pop up a picture of your Audi if you like. Cheers Trevor

I would imagine it is a lazy solenoid but you could check the wiring entering the door from the pillar (where it articulates when the door is open/closed)

Those figures are vastly different and I believe if your consumption does not reduce over time then you would have a case for rectification from the manufacturer. It's unusual that if your engine has been rebuilt that it is not to the latest standards for the components used (e.g revised piston rings, etc) however, it is most usual for a new engine to consume oil during running in (which can take some time if not being driven for long periods and being worked hard). I had experienced this with motorbikes in the past and it is quite noticeable when they are run in as to how little oil they consume compared to when they aren't run in. Additionally, the grade of oil changes once the engine has been run in which benefits the engine in the long term. Usually, the rings don't bed in if not run in properly...years ago you would drive the car gently for a period to break it in. Nowadays, the engine machining tolerances mean that the engine is ready to go from Day 1. In the case of my motorbike...it had done 14000 miles and still not yet run in. It took a period of riding it hard (but properly) for it to bed in properly and not consume oil at an alarming rate. I could then change the grade of the oil as it wasn't escaping down the bores. In summary, I believe a lot of the problem is with the restricted use of our cars on the UK congested roads, and I do wonder if they have this problem in mainland Europe with their open roads with very little congestion? If a car engine is run in properly it won't use oil unless there is huge wear on the bores/rings or a manufacturing defect (e.g. ring gaps aligned on the thrust side).

Hi Peter...welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear you've had a bit of a nightmare with the noise. Sounds silly, but could it be emanating from the other side of the car and just sounding like its coming from the drivers side? Also, there are some garages that have 'shaker plates' on the vehicle ramps for MOT purposes which may be useful in dynamically diagnosing exactly where the noise is coming from. Keep us informed on how it is progressing. Cheers Trevor

I recently witnessed a drop in mpg in my Honda CRV cdti and this was due to two things. Firstly, the clutch has started slipping slightly (common fault on these) which is contributing to the lower mpg (was 48 then started dropping to around 39). Secondly, just changed the oil and the mpg has increased slightly to around a constant 42 mpg which is acceptable until I replace the clutch. As Gareth has suggested, all factors such as tyre pressures, quality of fuel, etc all contribute to the overall mpg obtained.

Hi Laura...welcome to the Forum At a rough guess without knowing the dimensions of your 18" rims and tyres I would imagine that coming down from 18" to 16" (even with a large profile tyre) there should still be room under the wheel arches. The best bet would be to try one on the car before you buy and see if the wheels turn lock to lock without scrubbing against any bodywork. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

What year is it?