AOC Admin

That's a bonus ! Always satisfying when you do the job yourself and save money as well Thanks for letting us know the outcome

Hi Colin...welcome to the Forum It could well be the Body Control Module at fault but only with the programming of it rather than any hard failure. Worth running a proper scan on it using something like VAGCOM or similar. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi San...welcome to the Forum Sorry can't help you with the part number for the clip but would enquire directly with Audi as they shouldn't cost too much from them. Coolant leaks are generally related to corrosion or failure of seals, flanges or gaskets where there has been a lack of anti-freeze in the system, especially in this cold weather. I would advise to look at all areas of the system that appear suspect, as when you fix one weak point the pressure will generally go to the next weak area. Also, once you're happy you've sorted the leaks then refill the system with good quality anti-freeze. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Jack....welcome to the Forum What model of Audi have you got? Have you got a second key and is it the same with that one as well? Cheers Trevor

Hi James I agree entirely with Gareths' comments and would also add that it's definitely worth spending the money on the car when you get it to put right any potential faults (e.g. cambelt) and at least you know they are done properly and something less to worry about. As already mentioned, the rattle could be as simple as an engine flush and oil change but refilling with Audi recommended oils and the best quality you can get for your budget. Keep us updated on your progress with acquiring an Audi. Cheers Trevor

Hi Marc...welcome to the Forum I would strongly advise (as has Gareth already) to get the car to a garage as soon as possible as there is a known fault with oil pumps failing on some of the Audi petrol engines. Keep us updated with how it is going. Cheers Trevor

There's a pinned post in the General Chat section with recommended Garages so if you would like to post Harrow Audi Specialist details in there as a recommendation to others, that would be great, Cheers

I would always advise buying a battery of reasonable quality 'always get the best you can for your budget'. There are plenty of cheap ones which will let you down, but a quality one will generally weigh more than the cheap one .... one reason, more lead content, hence better quality. Four months ago the weather was warmer so not too much load on the battery. Now the weather's cold and dark, you'll have heater, wipers, seats, headlights, HRW all running the same time probably so this is what can happen with a cheap battery. If it wasn't cheap (e.g. around £40 - £45) I would take it back and compare it to a more expensive one and see what you differences you find afterwards. Cheers Trevor

Hi Roy...welcome to the Forum I would probably aim the question at Audi as they would more than likely have a Technical Service Bulletin on replacement oil specifications and would be advisable to check with them first. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Harry....welcome to the Forum Could only imagine it to be a faulty connector or wiring to the sensor (unless you put the old sensor onto the new manifold and transferred the fault across?) Keep us informed on how this progresses. Cheers Trevor

lol....just noticed the menacing looking cat in one of the piccies

Hi Rob...welcome to the Forum Great to see all the cars...nice collection! The Audi looks awesome and looking forward to reading about your mods in the future. Also, love the MX5...got a Mk1 myself, such a fun car ! Cheers Trevor

Hi James....welcome to the Forum I'll have a look in the B7 section in a mo and hopefully be able to offer assistance. Cheers Trevor

Glad to hear it is all sorted now with no expensive repairs.... ...I'm sure your wife is feeling sheepish about this incident...just as well nobody knows except us then ! :-)

Hi Graham....welcome to the Forum This is what I found for the 3.2 engine Power output 235–250 PS (173–184 kW; 232–247 hp) So unless your engine was destined for the American market and ended up in your car then I suspect it is 250PS. Cheers Trevor

Hi George...welcome to the Forum I remember another member on this forum saying the same thing. He ended up going to Audi to use the standard system and it cost him around £200 to activate the system with new maps. Worth giving Audi a call just to find out how much and if too much then maybe using a standalone system is the best way forward. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Sally...welcome to the forum It is possible to clear fault codes if they are 'historic' and there from previous faults/repairs and just not cleared out of the memory. I suppose the best thing to do is just wait to see if any warning lamps appear in the future and go from there. Cheers Trevor

Hi Paul...welcome to the Forum It could be as simple as a faulty coolant temperature sensor but definitely worth getting it scanned to see what fault codes are stored in the memory. Keep us updated on what you find Cheers Trevor

So what's your favourite Driving Road? Is it in the UK, Europe, States....where is that 'must drive before I die' road? Maybe it's the Amalfi Coast Road, the Stelvio Pass, the A3 with the Hindhead tunnel...or do you have one we don't know about? We want to hear about which journey brings you immense pleasure when you drive it...and what would be your favourite car to do the drive.

Hi John...welcome to the Forum The TT is a great car and they look awesome either standard or modded....have you done any mods to it yet? Cheers Trevor

Hi Mark...welcome to the Forum ....welcome also the world of Audi ! What Ford's did you have? Cheers Trevor

Hi Paul, It sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor which generates a signal to let the ECU know the engine is running and allows it to fuel, etc. No signal, engine does not run. When the sensor fails, the engine will start up after a while when the sensor resistance has returned to normal (cooled down) and then off again when it heats up and cuts the engine. Worth getting it scanned to confirm this though Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Tim...welcome to the Forum The first thing I would be tempted to do is to put the transmission in reverse gear, engine off, handbrake on, ignition on so the camera comes on and then go to the rear of the car and see if the reverse light is on....if not, then it could be a faulty reverse light switch, which the camera/park assist would more than likely get a signal from. If no joy there, I would advise scanning the system to look at the park assist system in detail (live readings, fault codes, etc) Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

I agree with Gareth....if there is an oil leak on a vehicle of that age, then it is not a good one to start with as if it is a crank/gearbox seal it would be extremely expensive to replace if you had to get it done yourself (e.g. no warranty on it as it is wear and tear). Maybe worth considering one that doesn't have many previous issues and oil leaks ?

Maybe best to take it to an independent VW Audi specialist who can change the battery and re-synch your other key....would be a cheap job I would imagine.