spartacus 68

I don’t know enough about it, but when you scan car with VCDS it will check each electronic module which all report back to the car’s main ECU. If there’s an error, it may require to be fixed then adapted back to the module. A bit like replacing the battery, then coding it to the car, or replacing the fuel filter, then priming it electronically. See if you know someone with VCDS. Regards Torx screws, a torx screwdriver is no use, you need a Torx driver, usually on a 1/4” ratchet to get proper purchase. In my experience they rarely break, unlike the 8mm or 10mm hex fasteners. Sorry, my mistake they are not M8/M10.

Retrofit them. Audi are as tight as a gnat’s chuff on specification options as standard.

Sounds like the car needs scanned with VCDS to pinpoint it. There’s a few sensors at the front. In addition, that bumper will need to come off. Majority of screws are either Torx or M8/M10. You can get Irwin bolt removal sockets. For Torx, you might need to drill a pilot hole and then use an easy out. Irwin stuff is very good. Spray PlusGas penetrating release on it too. At least with the bumper off you can inspect the wiring. With any airbag related work, 12v battery disconnected, stick on trickle charge and wait 30 mins before commencing work.

I’m hanging on to my A4 Allroad 3.0TDI (272) time-being. You can’t buy them now, and to be honest the technology that’s managing Euro 6 engines will throw up expensive issues down the line. My wife has a BMW i3 REx, which keeps my hands full. It’s either running sweet as a nut or it’s thrown it’s teddy out of the pram. To be honest, if I had the cash I’d consider a Kia given their 8 year warranty. I’m done with garages.

Solid engine, will be paired with 8-speed Tiptronic. If this has mild hybrid 48v they can be a nightmare to repair. 3.0TDI has lots of low end torque. Diesels don’t like town driving, so if mainly country driving and motorways, that’s fine. You’ll also find these Euro 6 diesels have DPF, EGR, AdBlue, etc. That’s fine as long as engine gets to temperature and decent runs 30 mins or more. I add Forte anti-crystal to every AdBlue top up and run premium diesel only. Fuel filter needs changed every 20k miles. I also change oil every 5-6k miles. I’m spanner handy, but this will be my last diesel, so I don’t want any crippling bills. If you’re buying with Audi finance you can usually get 2 year warranty, or 12 months if cash only. Maybe Audi have changed their sale proposition, but that’s my experience. If the car has only had 2 oil changes in its life, not unusual on long service intervals of 15-18k miles, I’d look elsewhere to be honest, irrespective of the mileage.

Are your headlights xenon bulbs? If there’s headlight washers on the bumper, then chances are they are. On the front and rear passenger side (they are on an Avant), there will be headlight height adjustment actuators. There’s a little mechanical arm and balljoint, which has probably corroded or broken. A visual check will confirm, you’ll need the wheel off for a proper look. VCDS will confirm if you know anyone that has the software. They are usually attached to the lower arms. Don’t buy cheap Chinese after-market parts. Search on Autodoc for a decent supplier. Sometimes even genuine Audi isn’t too bad price wise.

Manufacturer says 40mpg, real-world probably 30mpg with light right foot.

RAC have three levels of reports with most comprehensive one with diagnostics. However not cheap at £260 or so. Watch out for third party warranties, some will recommend service every 6 months which isn't practical. That said if you're doing 10k average. An oil change every 5k may work in your favour. VCDS can be purchased from Gendan. You'll need laptop to run it. Bear in mind Audi main dealer will charge you £150 or so to scan. Three VIN Version is fine.

Wiring comes on at the hinge, you'll see rubber grommet. Have a scan on YouTube for B8 how to video. I used to have a B8, so I think there's a couple of Philips screws where the internal grab handle is, then the rest is clips. Get yourself some plastic trim tools. You'll need to disconnect wiring to interior light and tailgate button if one is fitted. With the interior tailgate trim removed, you can access the trim panels at the side.

You'll be lucky to get a straight answer. I meant more about their goodwill contribution towards repair. Timing belts will continue to snap unfortunately, but recommending 140k miles is disingenuous, considering all factors, temperature, driving style, start-stop, etc.

The car is 10 years old, so you want to go through its history properly. If you or a friend have access to VCDS, I would scan the car too. If it’s had long service intervals, find another. Maintenance wise, change the oil every 5-8k miles, air filter and pollen filter annually. Gearbox, suspect S Tronic, so needs done every 38k miles. In addition it will be Haldex unit, so needs done every 20k miles. Audi just drop the oil, but pretty sure there’s a mesh filter in there that needs removed and cleaned. Search for Dave Sterl on YouTube.

That’s unfortunate. No point asking their service reception team as VAG are constantly revising the intervals. It seems as a loyal customer, you’ve followed their advice and you’ve been let down. The thing is, when the timing belt is off, a mechanic can see if any pulley bearings are worn, plus the tensioner pulley is changed as a matter of course, plus water pump, etc. A visual inspection of the belt is pointless. So you have two courses of action. As car has been serviced by Audi there is a high likelihood they’d pay some goodwill towards repair, plus you’d have their franchise labour rate to factor in, or cut your losses and go to a VAG independent. See what Audi UK come back with first and go from there.

Super unleaded. Bit like buying a jet fighter then trying to run it in 2-stroke mix.

Take it back. On a 25 model car, then you could wait long enough for a software patch.

Replace it. All rear wiper motors eventually fail. The brass or copper pipe that runs through the motor shears and leaks water. It’s made by Valeo. Personally I wouldn’t fit a pattern copy. If money is tight, just buy a breaker unit matching part codes.

Michelin CrossClimate+ but you’d need to do rears too. Excellent hybrid winter tyre. Nexen, hard wearing and good grip, basically a summer tyre. Ultimately depends on budget. Avoid cheap makes. All the big brands make decent tyres. Dunlop Sport usually a safe bet. Had Vredestein once, but compound too soft. Might be different on A3.

Pointless putting drilled and grooved discs on a 2.0TDI. Save your money. On a 2010 plate car, it might need a caliper overhaul down the line. Parts wise, TexTar (oe on BMW), Zimmerman, TRW (oe on Audi). Will be vented discs up front, pretty sure solid rears, but check Autodoc or similar.

Are you looking for the first generation 2012-15 Q3, basically model 8U? https://www.audi.ge/files/q3.pdf Or second generation F3? https://press.audi.co.uk/assets/documents/original/20418-AudiUK00016078AudiQ3PricingandSpecification.pdf Pointless asking an Audi dealer for this sort of thing, they are only interested in selling you a car on finance or overpriced service package! 🤐

The seal has probably gone on it. Two options, remove and thoroughly dry, using a hair-dryer. You can try a thin bead of Sikaflex (clear) around the seam and refit. The second option, is find a second hand unit. The trouble with second hand is they can be worse than what you have. You can buy new too, but it will be expensive.

Completely agree Steve. With Euro 6 technology and the whole VAG diesel-gate saga, then you understand they were trying to build bigger, more powerful engines and trying to keep CO2 within emission levels. Any kind of map will change the running characteristic of the car, just like EGR or DPF deletes. Somewhere further down the line, a fault will occur and usually it’s expensive. If you want more power, then just sell the existing car and buy stock performance off the shelf. Usually the car will come with unrated turbo, better cooling, larger brakes, oil cooler, etc.

You really need to scan with VCDS to see all errors. The MAF air sensor may appear clean, but that's no indication of what it's recording. In addition only use genuine parts not after-market if it has been swapped out recently. In my experience no pull is usually turbo or actuator. If it is DPF, then you'll see ash/soot content on live data.

There's nothing robust about an RS6. These are performance cars, and even with full service history, things can and will eventually go wrong. As long as you have a hefty contingency budget, then go into it with your eyes and wallet open. Check our YouTube REPerfomance and VAG Technic (both C6 variants) - which are very informative.

Post up some pictures. Absolutely no idea if this is the culprit, but you never know. In the meantime, get a dehumidifier in the car. Anywhere where there's staining, you can use warm water and a small splash of carpet cleaner solution. Don't soak.

C8 models 2019 onwards. 2.0TDI engine is robust and will be paired with 7-speed S Tronic gearbox. That needs serviced every 38k miles. V6 variant, then 8-speed TipTronic. Diesel 2.0 litre will be timing belt, so renew along with auxilliary belts every 60k miles plus water pump, etc. Personally I’d look for Quattro. That adds a few mpg but it’s surefooted and will help sell thereafter. Like anything, servicing is key. You want paperwork and lots of it. Avoid long service intervals. These are also sensor heavy, so consider purchasing VCDS as checking and clearing codes is £200 from Audi. All diesels, then you’re into AdBlue (Euro6), EGR, DPF, etc. Not sure when mild hybrid system started on petrol and diesel, but it’s complex. Search VAG Technic. It might have been an A8 but it caused them grief to fix. Faults, then rear coil spring seats are known weak point. The alloy corrodes from within the rubber. Rear subframes are just powder coated, so get there with Lanoguard. Front multi link suspension usually good for 100k miles, but will be hydrabushes, etc. On car around 50k miles, then potentially some arms if any knocks. Lemforder or Meyle HD. Another option is A6 Allroad, that’s air suspension. Extras worth getting, matrix headlights, auto towbar if you tow, full panoramic. It’s all money, but something to consider.

Have you looking into getting the original ECU repaired?