Magnet

Hello Dean, I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s virtually impossible to diagnose the actual cause of any noise without being able to inspect the vehicle - a bit like asking the dentist to explain why you have toothache in a particular tooth, without him being able to examine your teeth. Can we take it you did PM the original poster, but he did not reply? Obviously the car is trying to tell you something, and if this were mine, I would be booking it in to a trusted local garage, who will be able to inspect it, and should come up with a diagnosis. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

If this were me, I would be searching for any recalls in the States. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Rob, I think Richard’s advice to be careful, warrants respect. ‘One owner, haven’t seen the V5 yet’. Disbelieve anything you are told until you actually have the hard evidence in sight. You won’t go too far wrong if you follow that principle. My gut feeling for what it is worth - and I could be well off the mark - this car may have been on a PCP lease, and the person leasing it may not have wanted to pay main dealer prices for servicing, and being mean!, and accepting it was not being kept beyond the 3 years, decided to take the cheapest option with regard to whatever servicing ( if any) was carried out. It could (in caps) have been serviced by any number of outlets who weren’t linked to the VAG system, so the servicing record could not have been recorded in VAG’s system, and there aren’t service books any more. No main dealer service history, but any retained receipts? Others at independents? Are you actually certain from the ‘small print’ that the main dealer warranty is any more comprehensive? Anyway, realistically, I think there is a fair chance that you will be convinced to buy it, irrespective, since logic suggests Rob, you would otherwise automatically discount it. Good luck with whatever you decide, and perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The full story rests with the one-owner, so attempt to contact that person. Reg. April and first service in March, suggests it was first serviced when it was handed back in at the end of its 3 year lease.

Hello Rob, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Exactly how old is this car you are going to be looking at? As I understand it, the car can either be set on a Longlife schedule - usually if it covers a reasonably mileage - and generally the servicing comes around at c18k miles, or c18 months. The alternative is an annual service schedule where lower than average mileages are covered. If this car has covered 17k in xmonths since new, then you can work out how many services it should have had at a minimum. Do you know the history of ownership of the car? Surely there must be others about that could be considered, since the explanation you are being given sounds like ‘a salesman’s excuse’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gerry, Independents can often be as expensive as the main dealer, particularly where dealers have promotion on such work - as they do. ‘Official’ independents usually use only VAG parts, so that will be fine if that is the case. Local garages tend to use whatever brand of parts they can obtain at best prices from their local supplying factors, and in my book, the quality of the parts used is of vital importance - particularly in respect of water pumps, where my choice is always main dealer only, with no exceptions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, It will be interesting to hear of your progress. Re. recalls, it would be helpful to know what VAG’s worldwide actions has been in terms of this, since it’s reasonable to suspect that this might vary according to what may be considered acceptable actions in certain countries. USA may be a good place to start your homework. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mark, To some, low mileage and the need to change cambelts when the mileage covered in 5 years is seen as an overkill. However, low mileage vehicles can have a hard life in many cases, and can accrue their low mileage by short and infrequent journeys, where coolant, and particularly oil, seldom reach optimum temperature. If you compare the same mileage covered at a steady 70mph on the motorway, it’s easy to understand the increased wear rate and stresses placed on a vehicle which runs a short distance back and fore to Tesco once a week, with continued gear changes and varying engine revs. along that journey. It is this stop, start, gear changing, varying revs. which contribute to belt stresses - hence the importance to renew on a time limit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and thanks to Steve for promptly coming up with some answers. In addition to the mileage limit for change, there will also be a time limit, which is usually 5 years, and the all important bit is ‘whatever comes first’. In a nut shell, it should be changed every 5 years or the specified mileage - which ever comes first. One thing worth bearing in mind is the age of the ‘new’ belt you are buying, since it could have already been on the shelf for a number of years. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for getting in touch with the forum. I would be looking on EBay, with an aim to buying Bosch replacements ( probably the suppliers of the originals). Start by measuring the lengths of both wiper blades, and search on those first - looking for Bosch Aero twin blades for your model year. This will lead you to a number of sellers who should then be able to advise on the correct arms ( which you will have already measured as well, from the centre point of the spindle, to the point were the arm connects and pivots). Well worth investing in a pair of arms and blades. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Patrick, Unfortunately, as Steve points out, the manufacturer’s claimed figures are universally unrealistic, and are generally conceived ‘in laboratory’ under simulated road conditions. It is common knowledge that they are virtually unachievable under normal use. It must also be borne in mind that the car is still tight - at <700 miles - and may take several thousand miles to get optimum mpg for your journey and driving style. Kind regards, Gareth.

Interesting stats. Steve, but there is a big and meaningful difference between lists of crashes for marques and models ‘involved in’ crashes, and a comparable lists complied for ‘caused by’ ! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stefan, I don’t want to counter Steve’s advice, but personally, I’m not a great fan of putting my complete faith in generic listings. My first port of call would be to consult the handbook and then seek a supply according to that specification. Experience has shown that manufacturers often make what could be termed ‘ minor modifications to the basic specification’ , and as such these oils would normally be only available to dealers in bulk quantities, and accommodating dealers can sometimes be encouraged to sell you some dispensed into your container. So it would be back to the handbook, then I might suggest contacting Opie (oil suppliers) and seeking advice there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, I had a search on the Audi part no./ Bosch cross reference, but failed. I would agree with Steve that the part was probably manufactured by Bosch, so if this were mine, I would now be searching for a contact number for Bosch Technical and seeking advice there, based on their part number ( and availability) for the correct one for your model year. My experience of Audi part numbering systems concur with your garage - the last letter is all important - and not a simple derivative of some minor development of the original, as with some manufacturers. What is the issue with your current one? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kester, Neither of these components would seem to me to be terribly difficult to isolate as a cause - although ‘hole in a valve lifter’ would appear to be unusual, as really would be undetectable camshaft issues. As you say, as a 16 year old car, the repair bill will likely represent the value of the car, and I guess it’s decision time as whether you have had you money’s worth out of it and are prepared to move on, or if it’s been a faithful servant on which it’s worth further investment. Since we are talking diesel? here, why don’t you find yourself a local diesel specialist to canvas for opinion? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. For what purpose do you need to value it - a possible agreed value insurance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the helpful information Sammy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nick, Its a shame Caroline - the original poster- hasn’t returned to the forum since 20 minutes after she joined, so all the comments are currently to no avail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies Nick, but it just sounded like a diesel! - that’s why I thought Stevey would concur with my suggestion of asking at your local taxi rank for local diesel specialists - obviously not the right route now for petrol then! Personally, I think you need to get some second/ third opinions on this before embarking on any dismantling and part changing. Do you have anyone who can provide you with any recommendations for a good local garage who you can actually talk with, rather than simply get a relayed message that ‘you need new components x&y’ ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Like it Steve! I’ve already got cars older than me - now that takes some believing - but true, so I can carry on with mild tinkering in my dotage. Great! Many thanks again Steve, and kind regards, Gareth.

OK. Sign in and look for the envelope towards the top right of the screen. That’s the message sending route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Are they saying the water pump is leaking then? This would surprise me on a 6 year old car, unless it’s covered a galaxial mileage. 4 hours labour may equate to c £450, so the parts bill would be c £250 - which sounds high to me, but I may be out of touch. Can you confirm this is a diesel? If it is, then I would be tempted to look for a local diesel specialist and seek advice there. Finding a local diesel specialist? I have always advised asking at your local taxi rank, since these boys depend on a good service at a good price, and usually know who to avoid - which is half the battle! Hopefully, Steve on here will agree. Kind regards, Gareth.

Unfortunately Dean, the original poster joined the forum and last visited it, all on the same day, so I would suggest you PM him, and perhaps you would then be kind enough to post the outcome. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the contributions. Just to close off this thread, I’ve opted for Lemforder arms - one has already arrived and looks very well constructed - and Febi ball joints, since I feel that after 160k +, the originals warrant changing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Caroline, Thanks for being in touch. Perhaps you could let us know if you have owned the car long enough to know that this is an issue that has arisen during your ownership, or if you have bought a car with which you have inherited an already known issue. The fact that the engine oil is very black because the piston rings are wearing out, is an assumption - it could be black because it hasn’t been changed for some time. Could you tell us when the car last had a quality oil and filter change? If this were mine, I would first be treating it to a quality oil and filter change using say Quantum oil and a Bosch or Mann filter. You will then have a basing point from which to gauge its oil consumption. I would also be doing what Steve suggests, and taking the car for a 10 mile run to ensure the oil is up to operating temperature, then leaving the car idle for a couple of minutes and blip the accelerator and observe any blue smoke from the exhaust. If this clears, rev the engine to about 3000rpm fairly quickly and again observe any blue smoke. We take it there aren’t any visible oil leaks. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mat, I applaud your principle of spending wisely on quality parts, since you aren’t paying any labour bills. I still question the reasoning behind changing the water pump, since genuine ones can be long lived. Genuine VAG parts mail order at discount? Might be worth trying Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors/Cardiff Audi as was), and/or Aberdeen Audi - both are usually accommodating with a bit of discount. Kind regards, Gareth.