Magnet

Hello Branden, That should be easy. Just wonder into your nearest dealer, armed with that photo and your registration number, and they should be able to obtain the correct cover plate for you. My quess is that it covers a tie- down loop, and the cover has been removed for access to this and not replaced. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, Um, aporox. 500mA. ( half an amp) draw then. That's equivalent to around 5 to 6 watts - not insignificant. Daft-things first checks. Remove glove box bulb incase micro switch is not switching off. Same with boot light, but I would remove one at a time and test, otherwise you won't know which is the culprit if the current draw falls. Sat nav? Known these (boxes) to cause such issues if in the boot and moisture has got in and created 'white rust' deposits on the printed curcuit board. Unplug? Just a couple of extra pointers. Useful though?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Auto or manual Peter? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Bill, Working in kilometres rather than miles in a miles-country because you can easily calculate the conversion then. Well at least I understand now - or do I!? I guess the e-mail is about the service coming up at 7months rather than 12 and you want it 12 months from delivery . I'm sure they will sort this out for you. Your call of course, but if this car was mine, I'd certainly be ensuring the oddometer was reading in miles before presenting this for its service, otherwise the service record is likely to show the reading as miles, and you would then have to be trying to explain to them and a subsequent owner why the car hasn't been clocked when you revert to miles! - which everybody works in in the UK. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dennis, I would check that the current draw does indeed settle to around 50mA after being fully locked up for a couple of minutes. Much more than that will be undesirable. 500mA is obviously too much. Kind regards, Gareth. polly Parrot thingy? - yes, I would be disconnecting that too, but only after doing the above check first.

Hello William, Thanks for coming back on this. Why is Yorkshire in kilometres then? Perhaps the vote went against Brexit in your part of the country, but that's taking it a big step to the next level! Pardon my humour. Without being cynical, it looks as if you talked yourself/were talked into, not going on the Longlife schedule, so I guess you will be on their radar once a year? Someone will confirm or otherwise that it is now annual. I asked if the car was on PCP since my view would be to go along with it if it is, and perhaps set up a maintenance plan. Difficult to know what to do, but bear in mind that the car has only been in use for 7 months and there is another 5 months to go before it's had 12 months road use. I think this point is a valid one to talk with them about (at a senior, service level ). I'm not sure on this , so it would be great to have other opinions and facts, but am I right in thinking the original oil has 'additives' (right word? -probably not) which aids running in? If so, it could be argued that changing that oil after 2.5k miles may not indeed be the best for the car. Don't know, but if I were in your situation, I would need some convincing to change it now rather than in 5 months time. Kind regards, Gareth.

That's interesting Dennis, since I have left non-Audi cars unlocked in the garage for weeks and not suffered any undue battery drain. Probably others more up to date on these things will confirm that indeed your diagnosis is spot on with Audis of your model year, but I'm not so sure. Whatever it is that is draining the battery when the car is 'left unlocked' has a wattage of around 20w ( 12 X the 1.7 amp) - equivalent to the current drawn by a brake light or indicator bulb - no mean drain! Having pulled all ( and you are sure there aren't any other fuses e.g. In-line etc) without reducing the the current drain, my suspicion was that perhaps someone had connected something up direct to the battery perhaps and not via. a fuse at all, but, if you have solved it , then you have solved it. With regard to the 1.7 amp draw before locking :- I wonder if this is due to the courtesy lights still being on (as normal) until the car is locked or of course the lights have timed out automatically. Your 1.7 amp current draw could equate to the wattage of the set of interior lights. Reducing to 500mA ( half an amp) once locked ? You are right in your assumption that ...'would have dropped more..' and I believe a figure of more like 50mA would be what you would expect to run a 'fully shut down' system , after say 45 secs. after locking. If it were mine, I would double check that there is still a current drain of 1.7 amps in the unlocked condition well after the courtesy lights have gone out. No doubt you probably have Dennis, and that would mean I am still rather confused - but not too difficult with me! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, OK. The only thing I can add is that I've always associated the term 'new-for-old' with house contents insurance where they will do that if your old three piece suite gets damaged! You are obviously ahead of me on this with your in-trade experience, since it is not terminology which comes to mind with car insurance. Kind regards, Gareth.

I would certainly agree with Cliff, since it's simply wasting (already wasted?) money until you ascertain there is adequate and reasonably even, compression on all cylinders. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello William, I think your theory is not far off the mark, and the vehicle is possibly now approaching a year old. Now for my add-on theory which those more up to date on the current situation may blow out of the water:- Is there still a choice of 'Longlfe' or non longlife service schedules to choose from? Longlife = about 18k or 18/24 months ( this is my estimation only), the non longlife possibly = annually? If I'm an Audi dealer, then I would be wanting to set the service intervals to the shortest term to get as much money in as possible! Possible explanation of why they want to extract £350 out of your wallet after 4K miles ( your quoted km is a mistake?) and set yours to the non longlife schedule. Nor sure what difference it makes ,but is the car on PCP? If so, it can often be worth considering paying the monthly maintenance add on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I'm very sorry to hear of your plight. I wonder if it would be possible to clarify a couple of points here, so I can get the logic into perspective. As I understand it, it is 'unusual' for GAP insurance to only come into force from the time the vehicle is over 1year old. I raise this since (again as I understand) not ALL insurers automatically cover any form of like-for-like cover (or whatever they wish to call it) within the first year. Hence the need for GAP, and further the GAP cover 'makes up' the shortfall not covered by any other insurance. Again, there are various levels of GAP insurance cover and some make simply replace the vehicle as near as like for like allows, some will not cover any price rises since the car was bought, and some cover for 'invoice value' which may not be adequate in the case of the purchase (or lease) of a discounted-price vehicle. GAP cover needs to be chosen carefully to ensure it covers the individual's purchase requirements. Of course, Audi would offer GAP insurance, but it would likely cost more, but there would be far less room for 'not- covered' situations to apply and hold. The question that comes to mind really is - was there any particular reason you chose a GAP insurance that only covered your vehicle when it was over 1 year old? I may be confused, but I am having difficulty in respect of the blame being laid at the door of Audi Financial Services in this case. As I see it, your insurance cover contract was with Aviva, so any shortfall rests at their door, irrespective of who stands in between them and yourself. That should not be of your concern. Aviva would have had access to the pricing of the vehicle when new - at the time you took out a contract with them to insure the vehicle. In your case c£43k, and UNLESS there is any contra small print, they are liable for cover you for this amount, or replacement vehicle. This cover should not be dependent on anything Audi does, since you did not take out any insurance cover with Audi. Oversimplified? Maybe, but I would certainly be on the chasing case with Aviva, and much less so with Audi FS. I think it's great that you are alerting other owners to beware of Audi FS, but what has happened to you, may not necessarily happen to others, who are insured with different insurers and/or with a different GAP insurer. If it were me, I would be taking appropriate legal advice on this - away from services Aviva may provide you with as part of the cover, and I wish you good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dil, Not sure if you mean you are going to look into Peter's recommendation, or the new MoT requirements. Would seriously suggest the latter- no disrespect to Peter who admits he only just got away with it last year. Kibd regards, Gareth.

No pass next year then Peter! Think it might have been 20th May, but obviously checkable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Was it May new MOT requirements came into force?

Hello Stephen, Thanks for the additional information, which of course is vital to how you move forward to a resolution. Things are fairly simple than. So to recap, you have full documented main dealer service history to support the oddometer reading prior to it going to the independent. Armed with this, you go to your local main dealer and ask them if, and how, the odometer can be reset to display what it should read. Assuming it can be reset, then you get a quotation from them and request the independent to meet this bill, since they caused the problem. It would seem that they have had opportunity to rectify the issue, and you are now acting reasonably by arranging for someone else to correct their error at their expense. My view is that even if they will not pay, you cannot afford not to get it done, but...... I'm really confused by your concern about whether this has happened to other Audis. In my book, this should not be of concern or importance - it has happened to your car, and that is sufficient to cause you concern. Personally, I think you are in danger of taking your eye off the ball if you go down that road. Audi can't do it by any chance? I guess it's Googling the 'specialists' in this field and seeing what this comes up with. Good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Simple things first. Do you have an original service book for the car? If so, that ( and the MOT history from 2006) should substantiate the mileage -or not. We hope the 'or not' doesn't apply! If you don't have a service book:- Is it possible it's a one owner vehicle prior to you? If so, contact Audi dealers in the area of the first/previous owner and ask them to check their database (if information is still held). Of course, this information may be available on a 'national' Audi database anyway - but someone more up on this should be able to confirm or refute this with your age car. If the car still has its original reg. no. then simply google the region of first registration and check with Audi dealers there. Sorry to ramble, but the object of your searches shoukd be to substantiate (with evidence) that the mileage is correct or not. Then resetting it? Obviously try an Audi dealer (armed with print outs of your evidence ) and enquire there. I cannot see why it shouldn't be possible to revert to its previous mileage (if you have proof it's correct) . No success with that? There used to be companies providing a service in so called 'mileage correction' . Worth a google if all else fails.

Hello Kyle, .'.........can only assume it's inside the bumper' . Well they are on earlier A3s. Your A4? Probably. If so, you may find they (one either side of the front) are behind removable plastic grilles or the spotlights -if fitted. You certainly don't have to remove the whole bumper on earlier A3s anyway, but expect getting at them to be fiddly even once you can see them. Any advantage in removing engine undertray?? The A3 horns are badly located and rust, and you are unlikely to know one stops working. It's only when the second one goes the same way, that you know you are in trouble. Just a thought. Checked the fuse? But if it has blown - why? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, No, personally I can't say I have heard of others having problems, or not, but no doubt there are others on here who are far more into these things day to day than I am. Sorry, but again I cannot say whether the full clutch and flywheel arrangement on yours is similar to our fairly basic set up - again others may. I would be tempted to think yours would have the more complex dual mass flywheel, but...? What I would ask is (apart from the judder on clutch take up) do you experience any roughness/ pulsing/ undue noise with the clutch pedal partly depressed to a point where the clutch is slightly depressed? This will be felt through the pedal - or not, but only when pressed say half way, or slightly, down. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Interesting. The clutch on our 148K 2006 A3 1.6 (in the family from new) has just been replaced due to juddering. It has never slipped and it seems to clutch plate would have been fine for more service. However the clutch has always been sharp and prone to judder - almost from new, as you claim with yours, and to me, it never, ever was a smooth clutch. Our daughter who drove this through most of its long-journey mileage seemed to get on with it. Anyway, fast forward to last week when the clutch was replaced with a quality LUK kit ( Audi part would have cost about 3x the price!) . You could feel something was wrong when the pedal was partially pressed. It's now as smooth as a baby's what's it, and much much lighter than it's ever been. Culprit - clutch release bearing, which judging by the flimsy nature of the LUK part, it doesn't surprise me at all! Not sure what engine is in yours (ours is the older 1.6 basic one), so things might be different with yours and may well be more complex with DM flywheel etc. Points to consider:- If it simply judders then this is likely to go on for a long time, getting very gradually worse, but probably being lived with. If you can feel (and hear?) a roughness or slight judder from the pedal itself when partly depressed and held in this position then it's time to worry. Hope some of this might be of help and/or reassurance. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shawn, Sorry to hear of your problem. It might be wise to get this into perspective, by first judging how much of this service history is actually 'missing' - bearing in mind that longlife service schedules can extend between-service mileages to around 18k + miles. Perhaps you could fill in the detail for us. OK, the dealer advertises the vehicle as having full service history, but it could be worth appreciating that a buyer could be expected to confirm such fact before proceeding with purchase. Yes, easy to say in hindsight, but when buying anything secondhand, there must indeed be a 'responsibility' on the part of the buyer to use all available resources to substantiate claimed facts. Sources of expertise with comparable values? Paul's pointer is useful, but ignore the part about DVLA providing details of previous keepers - this service is no longer available. Having said that, I always recommend that interested buyers always contact the previous registered keeper before proceeding with a purchase. Without being cynical, I doubt if this advice is generally followed, since the buyer has already fallen in love with the vehicle - and we all know what that means! So the shine outweighs the risk of not doing. So Shawn, you can proceed with a claim (Small Claims Court that was?), but you would need to support your claim with an 'expert witness' at your initial cost. This witness would have access to the trade values - CAP guide on line etc. - and would need to provide this evidence to the court. If you win, you can claim it back. Again, complications may arise if part exchange was involved since the seller may have inflated the incoming value of that part part exchange to secure a deal, so the 'difference to pay' figure may -just may- not be that far out from that if the true value of the vehicle you bought had partial rather than full service history. Apologies for the ramble, but without knowledge of the extent of 'partial' history, and the deal itself, it's difficult to advise whether it's worth bothering to claim money rather than take up their 'offer to service'. One compromise could be to get agreement (in writing) to have this vehicle serviced and inspected at an independent. Battles and claims are just that, and compromises are always better, since irrespective of the potential for some extra money (how much?) in your pocket the vehicle still remains as being not what you wanted/expected. But even bad experiences pay dividends in the end! Good luck with sorting this out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Wondered if my experience of trying to sell a cherished number may just give some pointers to aid its sale. Companies such as Registration Transfers ( and there are many more) will give you a valuation and a 'return-to-you' figure if they sell it on your behalf. This will give you a ball park figure which should help with a question such as 'how much are you looking for it?' My belief and experience points to a response of 'make an offer' rarely leading to a sale., and I'm a firm believer in setting a figure and making that known. Your number might well sell quickly, but my recent experience resulted in a cherished number I held on retention and advertised with cherished number dealers for 10 years, being reunited with the donor vehicle after this lapse of time. Too expensive? Not really ,since I reduced the return to me figure every 3 years until it was listed at a third of it's original valuation - this original valuation being considered realistic to the dealers and myself. Yours of course, may sell well and quickly, particularly if you show your hand and state what price you want for it. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I'm very much with Paul on all of this. I would avoid pressure lance operators - from far east of the Thames estuary or not. The chemicals used will take the skin off your hands and unless accurately diluted, will turn lacquer milky in no time at all. I could point to 'well kept' cars which have been wrecked by the process, but the owners seem oblivious to the cause. Its bucket, and wax shampoo for me, but the £5 wash is still more attractive to some. Autoglym:- Again I can only support Paul's experience of using their products. I've been using them since they were first introduced - when I had hair! Tried others in between but still come back to them. There may be better products, but..... Suitable for use on 'older' cars? Been using their resin polish on a couple of cars since it came out, and these cars are now over 80 years old! Kind regards, Gareth.

Fair point Jason, but the main point of my response was to use Halfords (and their pricing) to assess whether it is possible to fit these bulbs - without- removing the bumper - or not. Whether you then actually use them to fit the bulbs (and possibly remove the bumper) would be a decision left to the owner - as you point out your decision in this case. No doubt, for many owners, cost comparisions between say main dealers and Halfords might also influence that decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Our A3 is ten years older than yours and was fitted with Michelin from new. We continued using their 'updated' tyres for well over 100k, but I've just changed to Continental Contact 5 s, since I felt Michelin were getting noisier. Early days yet to assess the Continentals, but..... Of course, you can consider alternative makes, but I tend to do/recommend what you are suggesting as your possible option, and stick with the originally fitted brands. Do you ever get the same mileage on replacements of the same brand?? If this decision was mine, I would stick with the 5s (which seem to be available at good value for money) rather than pander to the manufacturer's updates. I guess it depends on whether your normal driving style matches the need for the 'improvements' offered by the 6s. Backs wearing slower. My scheme has been to replace the fronts and put the new on the fronts. When the rears need replacing, put the new pair on the front, and your (currently to be replaced) front ones on the back. Sticking with brands fitted from new? I notice Mercedes Benz are now using Hankook on some of their cars, which I thought were a mid range tyre. Times have changed? Good luck with whatever you choose. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think it is essential to consider basic factual information with such things as this. Every vehicle will have a maximin towing capacity, and I believe (but please take professional advice) that this is based on the (gross?) weight of the towing vehicle. It is possible - and understandable - that vehicles fitted with panoramic roofs may have a lower towing weight than those fitted with conventional steel roofs since despite the likely bonded nature of the glass roof, the total structure may not be as rigid as the conventional roofed vehicles. Having said that, I cannot understand that a panoramic roofed vehicle simply cannot tow anything! Of course, I am not giving you an answer, and without undermining advice given on here, I don't feel comfortable that this is the right place to end up with the definitive answer. If it were me, I would be making enquiries at:- Main dealer, or Audi Customer Services - Technical, and/or Established towing equipment fitters/suppliers. In both cases - make sure you have the advice in writing. - should be in capitals! As no doubt you will understand, this reply only serves to suggest a reliable source of correct information. Trusting you will be able to get this. Kind regards, Gareth.