Magnet

Hello David, Could be worth giving it an Italian tube by keeping the revs around 3k plus for at least 20 mins. Only costs some fuel. Regards, Gareth.

Morning Kevin, I think it was understood that you were referring to oil changes, and yes technology has moved on. The days of changing oils every 3K miles are well remembered, along with reboring, crank regrindig etc. and yes part exchanging your car for a new one every year. Things have changed and ‘marketing’ has become the key word. Encouraging owners to buy servicing contracts with their PCP whereby the vehicle gets service at c18K or 18 months - whichever comes first, ensures dealers and fleet operators spend as little as possible on servicing and the ‘plan’ becomes lucrative. I could well be called old fashioned, but anyone who runs a modern diesel for c18K miles does not have the vehicle’s best interest in mind, when you consider stop/start systems and oil dilution. What surprises me is that potential buyers have undue respect for ‘full service history’ where the vehicle may spend half a day in a workshop every 18 months, and get abused for the rest of its time. For me, full service history means an oil and filter change at least at 8 to 10k mile intervals. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Allan, The search should have been carried out on Part number - as suggested. Regards, Gareth.

What I meant was if it takes you say 10 years to reach 80k miles, you would be happy not to change the belt until then -?

Sorry Jay, I’ve got to give up on this and wish you good luck.

Thanks for updating the forum Steven.

OK, you really need to find out more then Jay, since quoted wheel width equates to a little over 1/4 inch.

How are you getting on with this Steven?

Wheel width of 7.5 mm??

If you bear in mind that the seller is telling you the truth when you have actually seen the evidence in writing, or when he his lips closed, you won’t go far wrong. If you don’t methodically carryout the pre-viewing procedure I suggested , and have the evidence to hand before you set off to view the vehicle, two things can potentially go wrong:- You will fall in love with it, and buy it irrespective, and you know what love can do. You will regret your purchase. There is a third possibility that you decide not to buy it after spending money and time to go long distances to view it.

P in M are out of stock? Have you tried other suppliers on EBay, and as a last resort - Autodoc? Use the aftermarket numbers as well.

Hello Alan, We’ve had a spate of ‘does anyone know the part number?’ posts over the last week. Doing a quick search on here should provide you with your next step. Having said that, in your case, I would just wander into your local main dealer and order what you want. They will be able to indentify them from their schematic. OK they may cost you a few more £s but will minimise the hassle. Regards, Gareth.

Under the old guidance of 75K or 5 years, the all important caveat was ‘whichever comes first’. Under that dictate, the cambelt should have been changed last year. We have members on here doing less than 7k/a, so they won’t need to change the belt until the car is 20 years old - good luck with that! The fact that this recommendation has changed since the introduction of the engineeringly-averse stop/start system just renders this totally illogical. Has your car been operating on a working stop/start system since you have owned it Ingrid?

Any help to you John? ’I’m not a post and run merchant!’ You are to date John!

Size?

Hello Jay, So what size wheels and tyres do you have now, and same question in regard to the RS3 you are considering? Regards, Gareth.

Are you now able to answer the points raised in the post of Wednesday last? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Robert, If I was in your situation, I would be more concerned about this car’s history of faults, before worrying about what might go wrong. Have you:- Done an on line DVLA vehicle check to see when the last V5 was issued - if recent, could be due to a returned faulty vehicle? Carried out an on-line MOT history check? Actually seen copied evidence of the seller’s claims re. service history? If everything still adds up - pay £9.99 for a VCheck car history report. This will give you important information inc. whether it’s been through auction/s. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth. re. ongoing servicing, what is your anticipated annual mileage?

Thanks for coming back Tom. My point is this:- If you simply asked them to change the gearbox oil without revealing any reason why, then you don’t have any redress for the fault remaining as was, or your reluctance to now pay an additional cost for a diagnostic check - for which understandably you would have to pay for. Apologies if I’ve got this wrong, but that’s my interpretation of what I understand you have said.

Thanks Kevin, but I think you blow your own argument out of the water. This isn’t about mileage covered, but the now lack of ‘…. x years, whichever comes first’. That interval was taken to be 5 years.

I’m not sure I follow your logic of not informing the dealer of your reason to ask them to change the gearbox oil - and refusing to pay labour charges.

Thanks Steve, Read ‘Brake discs and pads part number’ thread 4 Oct and more. You will find all the tips you need there.

Hello Steve, I guess you haven’t done a forum search under say ‘Part number’. There have been a few similar requests for part numbers in the last couple of weeks or so - will save repeating the recommendations already given. Please let us know how you get on Steve. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Ingrid, I too am very sorry to hear of your issue, but surprised? No. It’s of no consolation, but you will find numerous threads on here on the subject of VAG’s modified dictate on cambelt change intervals - which is now limitless on a time basis. You will find that all my responses point to - do not follow their advice - in clear terms together with my reasoning. Low annual mileage vehicles ( such as yours) take a hammering in terms of stop/start ( an engineeringly adverse system), short runs and gear changes and obviously the cambelt becomes more highly stressed than a vehicle running at 70mph on the motorway. What to do from here? Some valves will (in caps) be bent, due to valves hitting the pistons, so just fitting a cambelt is pointless. Worse possible case is conrods may also be slightly bent. Stevey Y is your man here, and as pessimistic as it is, getting anything out of VAG will be a more trouble than the worth of it route. Even if they do offer any degree of compensation - and it’s a big if - you will find that the whole job via an Audi dealer will cost you far more when they discount VAG’s compensation, than it would do at an independent. You need to find yourself someone who you can trust, and above all talk to, not receptionists at an Audi dealership. All the forum can offer you Ingrid, is all the support and advice you will need - we are on tap for you. Please keep in touch. Regards, Gareth.

Sorry to hear that Tom, When you booked the car in to the Audi dealer, what was your request to them for what you wanted done, and did you clearly explain why - i.e. the symptoms you were experiencing?