cliffcoggin

Oil and filter change is worthwhile, but if that does not resolve the fault it's likely the mechatronic control mechanism needs an overhaul. That's a job for an experienced mechanic.

It's not only Audi that has this problem. From what I have read every car manufacturer is facing the same difficulty, yet are being forced by legislation into providing these functions despite them being unreliable.

I don't want to deter you Babzi, but your chances of selling a left hand drive car in Britain are very small. Je ne veux pas vous décourager Babzi, mais vos chances de vendre une voiture à conduite à gauche en Grande-Bretagne sont très faibles.

Steve. If there is suspicion of the crankshaft I agree with Gareth that it should be inspected as soon as practicable, because the state of this shaft and its bearings will have a huge influence on the cost of the repair, or even the feasability of repairing it at all. Regrinding of crankshafts was common years ago, along with fitting undersize main and big end bearing shells. I do not know if this sort of work is done commercially any more. Perhaps there are classic car restorers who do, but are undersize shells still available? If you can post high resolution pictures of the bearing shells and crankshaft journals we can get an initial idea of their condition and advise further.

Sorry Jonathon, that's no better for me. Your best bet is to take the car to a mechanic who can slide under the car.

Another P&R time waster.

It might be a battery fault, an alternator fault, or a charging circuit fault. A scan with a code reader should help identify the problem. Did you get the new battery coded to the car? It needs to be done.

No thanks. Turning up the volume would also raise the background noise to levels that would damage my speakers. As I wrote 10 months ago in this topic, you need to make a recording with less background noise and more defect noise, i.e. a higher signal to noise ratio.

All I hear is road noise plus a squeak at about ten seconds.

It sounds like a bunch of cowboys.

What sort of dealer are you visiting with a car that is less than 12 months old that can not fix your brakes, want £20 per litre of oil, and now can not show you where the temperature guage is?

Good idea to label each nondescript part like wires and connections which aren't obvious to the naked eye. It's surprising how quickly memory can fade. I suggest: [a] fit nuts etc. to their respective bolts/studs so they don't become mixed, [b] note the order of dismantling so you can reverse it for re-assembly, [c] note or mark the relative positions of parts such as camshaft & crankshaft that need to be phased correctly when re-fitted.

I have no experience of that problem, but a possibility is a bad earth connection on one unit or the other. Scanning with a code reader may be the simplest first step to point you in the right direction.

Thank you Kevin. There are fewer than a dozen regular contributors to the forum, so naturally the effort is spread thinly, however it is generally well considered and worth waiting for.

Kevin. To expect an answer to your question wthin 2.5 hours of joining the forum is unreasonable. Wait a few days for somebody with both the knowledge and the inclination to reply.

It has been done by at least one member of these forums. That's why I mentioned it.

I have moved the topic accordingly.

Larger rims will need lower profile tyres to maintain the same overall radii. Lower profiles will give a harsher less comfortable ride, which in turn is going to put more stress on the suspension.

Sorry I can not answer your question, but whatever you choose I recommend changing both springs with a matched pair. The height and rebound charateristics need to be the same both sides.

Alastair, were the replies of any help to you? I see you visited the forum nine hours ago.

Winter always reveals battery weakness.

What's the point if the lights are not working when reactivated for the MOT? One might as well fix the lights and leave then operable.

It's normal. Some VAG automatic gearboxes will enforce a lower ratio if the car detects the speed is increasing despite having the brakes applied. Personally I dislike the system as it forces high engine revs to little effect on decelleration. There should be a switch to disable the feature.

In that case I shall add nothing more to the topic.

That's one suggestion and one question you have had regarding the problem John, but it seems we have wasted our time responding if you are not going to read them.