So like most people I've made new years resolutions including to stop swearing.

This is ironic as my other new years resolution is to remove the A6 engine and establish what's gone on it. I'm doing this with support from a friend who is doing a mechanics course. 

We're doing this slowly/taking our time and methodically, labeling all pipes, wiring connectors and parts we remove. I'm also boxing components up according to their functions ie air system/,coolant system etc. were also doing a photo diary and using manuals. 

I was going to send the A6 to a mechanic friend (former friend) but this is no longer happening as I've discovered him to be dishonest and feel the A6 would not be safe in his care. 

Off the back of this,I'm determined to improve my mechanical knowledge and this will be supported by the fact I'm on a 4 month secondment as support staff in the education department working alongside a tutor teaching mechanics to young people.

If any of you have any hints, tips, tricks or advice then please don't hesitate to share. 

Day 1 - not too exciting as we had limited time, we just removed the air box, maf, induction piping and coolant expansion tank, the later needs changing as you can't see the level anymore. 

Next plan is to remove the bumper/headlights so we can remove the radiator and rest of the coolant system. 

 

 

Good idea to label each nondescript part like wires and connections which aren't obvious to the naked eye. It's surprising how quickly memory can fade.

I suggest: [a] fit nuts etc. to their respective bolts/studs so they don't become mixed, [b] note the order of dismantling so you can reverse it for re-assembly, [c] note or mark the relative positions of parts such as camshaft & crankshaft that need to be phased correctly when re-fitted.

11 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said:

Good idea to label each nondescript part like wires and connections which aren't obvious to the naked eye. It's surprising how quickly memory can fade.

I suggest: [a] fit nuts etc. to their respective bolts/studs so they don't become mixed, [b] note the order of dismantling so you can reverse it for re-assembly, [c] note or mark the relative positions of parts such as camshaft & crankshaft that need to be phased correctly when re-fitted.

Thank you for the advice Cliff, it's greatly appreciated 🙂 We've refitted screws, nuts, bolts etc to their respective parts. I've also taken pictures of each stage so we can reverse the process. 

6 hours ago, Steve Q said:

So like most people I've made new years resolutions including to stop swearing.

This is ironic as my other new years resolution is to remove the A6 engine and establish what's gone on it. I'm doing this with support from a friend who is doing a mechanics course. 

We're doing this slowly/taking our time and methodically, labeling all pipes, wiring connectors and parts we remove. I'm also boxing components up according to their functions ie air system/,coolant system etc. were also doing a photo diary and using manuals. 

I was going to send the A6 to a mechanic friend (former friend) but this is no longer happening as I've discovered him to be dishonest and feel the A6 would not be safe in his care. 

Off the back of this,I'm determined to improve my mechanical knowledge and this will be supported by the fact I'm on a 4 month secondment as support staff in the education department working alongside a tutor teaching mechanics to young people.

If any of you have any hints, tips, tricks or advice then please don't hesitate to share. 

Day 1 - not too exciting as we had limited time, we just removed the air box, maf, induction piping and coolant expansion tank, the later needs changing as you can't see the level anymore. 

Next plan is to remove the bumper/headlights so we can remove the radiator and rest of the coolant system. 

 

 

TAKE LOADS PICS  STEVE THE STUFF YOU TAKE OF

5 hours ago, audia4b5kev said:

TAKE LOADS PICS  STEVE THE STUFF YOU TAKE OF

Thanks Kev, will do. 

11 hours ago, Steve Q said:

Thanks Kev, will do. 

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings.

Steve.

Thanks Steve, some great advice there. I'll keep you all posted 🙂

Hello Steve, I think Steve Y’s idea of removing the sump  first, is great. You can then remove bearing caps (keeping them in order is a must). Where bolts/ nuts can’t be refitted then put them in individual clearly marked envelopes. Also, a thanks to Kev for suggesting  numerous photo sessions of what goes where.

I would also suggest picking up some various colour touch ups and placing dabs on each side of any connections you disconnect. 
You’ll get there. 
Good luck,

Gareth. 

21 hours ago, Magnet said:

Hello Steve, I think Steve Y’s idea of removing the sump  first, is great. You can then remove bearing caps (keeping them in order is a must). Where bolts/ nuts can’t be refitted then put them in individual clearly marked envelopes. Also, a thanks to Kev for suggesting  numerous photo sessions of what goes where.

I would also suggest picking up some various colour touch ups and placing dabs on each side of any connections you disconnect. 
You’ll get there. 
Good luck,

Gareth. 

Thanks so much Gareth will do 🙂

I think you have a ‘running tap’ of advice on here as you need it Steve, although mine might be more of a drip! 
I’m very pleased you are going to have a go yourself. I very much understand the sentiment here, and you can’t go out and buy that. 
I’ll have to get my brain in gear and recall things like acceptable tolerances! 
No urgency, but could you refresh exactly what went wrong?

Regards,

Gareth. 

2 hours ago, Magnet said:

I think you have a ‘running tap’ of advice on here as you need it Steve, although mine might be more of a drip! 
I’m very pleased you are going to have a go yourself. I very much understand the sentiment here, and you can’t go out and buy that. 
I’ll have to get my brain in gear and recall things like acceptable tolerances! 
No urgency, but could you refresh exactly what went wrong?

Regards,

Gareth. 

Thank you so much Gareth. I know you'll all help me which is great and reassuring to know. I felt I've had no other choice as finding anyone willing to work on it or anyone trust worthy has been the issue. Plus I've got nothing to lose if the engine is knackered. 

My mechanic believes the knocking noise is the crank. I think the turbo was starved of oil too. Both of which are guesses. The engine ran normally in sense is rhythm but with a knocking sound. 

Steve. If there is suspicion of the crankshaft I agree with Gareth that it should be inspected as soon as practicable, because the state of this shaft and its bearings will have a huge influence on the cost of the repair, or even the feasability of repairing it at all. Regrinding of crankshafts was common years ago, along with fitting undersize main and big end bearing shells. I do not know if this sort of work is done commercially any more. Perhaps there are classic car restorers who do, but are undersize shells still available?

If you can post high resolution pictures of the bearing shells and crankshaft journals we can get an initial idea of their condition and advise further.

24 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said:

Steve. If there is suspicion of the crankshaft I agree with Gareth that it should be inspected as soon as practicable, because the state of this shaft and its bearings will have a huge influence on the cost of the repair, or even the feasability of repairing it at all. Regrinding of crankshafts was common years ago, along with fitting undersize main and big end bearing shells. I do not know if this sort of work is done commercially any more. Perhaps there are classic car restorers who do, but are undersize shells still available?

If you can post high resolution pictures of the bearing shells and crankshaft journals we can get an initial idea of their condition and advise further.

Thanks so much Cliff, hoping to get more work done this weekend 🤞 

Hopefully get the whole sump off and have a look. Had the sump plate off but visibility is poor. But getting it all off will help. I'll definitely take some pictures. 

I very much agree with Cliff in terms of the art of engine machining. Sound advice too re. Classic car contacts. 
Might well be worth looking up localish multi - marque classic car clubs, and going along to one of their meetings and seeking advice on where to place this work. 
Regards,

Gareth.

Thanks Gareth 🙂 once I get the sump off I guess we'll know more 😬

Been a little quiet this week due to a family member on end of life care and my friend unavailable to assist

As such I've not been able to get the sump off but I have left my expansion tank to soak in bicarbonate soda on a recommendation from a mechanic colleague. I've not soaked the sensor connector, for anyone worried. 

My rationale is that the original expansion tank will be better quality than any replacement? 

Or dishwasher tablet Steve.
Could then put it in the machine if the good lady isn’t about! 

I DISH WASHER ALL KINDS    I WOULD LEFT THAT SOCKING IN BUCKET  TFR    THATS  WHY  INDER MY BONNETT ALWAYS MINT   

Thanks both, il get hold of a dishwasher tablet. I haven't got a dishwasher unfortunately. I've mixed in washing no bio gel to see if it removes any staining. 

Yes you have got a dishwasher - its name is Steve! 

I am married to my dish washer so I dare not present her with oily car bits to clean.

48 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Yes you have got a dishwasher - its name is Steve! 

Touche! 😂 

27 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said:

I am married to my dish washer so I dare not present her with oily car bits to clean.

Haha 🤣 

I must admit, I've been doing this whilst my wife is out 😂 

I may end up buying a new one anyway but will keep this as a spare. Have you any any experience with aftermarket ones such as on auto doc etc? Are they of inferior quality to the genuine Audi one which is now obsolete. 

Also without sounding daft, can I get the plug wet that's for the coolant level sensor? I've kept it dry this far but if it were to go in a dishwasher etc then it'd get wet. 

What's wrong with the engine, it seems a big job to start with, but when I took the S6 apart I basically left everything on the subframe and dropped it as a complete unit.

13 minutes ago, matty_s6 said:

What's wrong with the engine, it seems a big job to start with, but when I took the S6 apart I basically left everything on the subframe and dropped it as a complete unit.

Not sure yet, suspected crank failure. Hoping to get the sump off to inspect it. 

The only issue with dropping the subframe is getting it realigned afterwards.  I'm thinking leaving it in so it's rolling. Like this... 

Sorry it's been a while. The A6 is booked in into a garage for engine work in July. So that gives me time to get the bits sorted. So today, my mate and I attacked the rear end. I'm aiming to replace the rear axle, brakes, suspension.

One of the rear springs had snapped and the car fought us all the way. We're struggling to get the calipers off as the bolts seem seized. This has stopped us progressing further.

Handbrake was seized one side.

Both spring rubber caps are perished and split.

Ive decided on going with eibach pro kit springs which are as close as I can get to the original sport springs (both originals and eibach ones are the same 30mm).

Trying to decide on whether I go for bilstein b6 or b8 shocks.

Currently trying to find a new/refurbished axle as I'm trying to prevent the situation like on this Passat. Does anyone know the passat axle and A6 2wd axle are the same?

I've contented I'm axles and another supplier of Passat b5 axes but they haven't got back to me.

I'm going to fit powerflex bushes to the axle where it mounts to the car.

Then going to sort he brakes out but I'm planning to do brakes last so that new discs aren't sitting not being used.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.