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New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I think I'll still be doing mine every 5 years or as close to it as I financially can, purely for my own peace of mind. On my Audi app now it even shows up, saying it's to be changed every 225k with no time interval below it.

Hi they are all the same, in my experience failure of the alternator clutch is rare but if it should occur changing the whole unit is best policy as they tend to last the lifetime of the unit they are on, different if the car has only done 30k and the alternator is good but the only effective way of removal is to take the alternator out then struggle for hours trying to get the old clutch off. Steve.

Hi if they do the service properly and take the sump plug out the brush head will fall out anyway, easy way out is if it is billed with a new plug fitted ask them if they found anything else in the tray as its a family heirloom.

just removed my large front undertray this morning but this is on an audi a4 b8 2011 similar to above but used a torx 25 bit mine are certain type torx screws where you just turn them twice and they are loose enough to pull out.there are 3 torx screws at the back of the tray and 3 at each side of the tray and then i am able to slide the try out backwards....note(if in your case) how the front part of the tray slots in place when putting it back with 2 slots going inside the small tray at the front and two slots stay on the outside of the tray....(note this and take a picture before removing.....you may just need to remove the 3 rear screws(again if in your case) and be able to grab the brush head but it will still mean jacking the car up and putting axle stands under.local garage might be helpful and only charge a small amount.easy enough job for me to do.

Until I bought my Audi I drove and towed with a BMW X3 and cruise control was available when towing on that. I just can't see any reason why Audi have decided to do this. But I'd still have the Audi in preference to the X3

Please feel free to make suggestions on how the forum can improve. I trust if you purchase a Q5 you'll become an active member? Also I did offer some advice which hasn't been acknowledged.

Really sorry to hear of your misfortune Steve, but it seems ‘an ill wind….’. It sounds as if all will be well in the end, and that’s the main thing. Interesting to read about Skoda rather than Audi, if only because virtually all cabs around here were Skoda going back around 10 years. I didn’t realise Skoda parts prices were going to be that much cheaper than Audi, but I used to get all my Audi parts at good prices from a Skoda dealer up the NE, until the supply dried up. It seemed VAG wanted to charge them 2 arms and 2 legs for the computer cross reference listings - making it totally uneconomic! Those who have stuck with VAG for cabs around here, seem to now favour Seat. Has Seat become the cheapest brand in the VAG range? Hope it all works out for you Steve. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi I thought you might have one you made earlier hidden somewhere, I totally endorse your sentiments, but I can honestly say that the myth of premium brand will not bear close scrutiny, yes the paint and leather seats first class but as for the rest of it, the same as any other manufacturers they go wrong and are very complex to diagnose and fix and unless Audi get their customer service act together they will lose many customers, allied to their starship parts prices it is not good, just as an exercise I priced a new engine for mine on ETKA £12000 +vat for a bare engine, thats over half the price of a good late A6 second hand as for the legendary full service history its not worth the paper its printed on, look at the guys that have posted about 2-3 year old cars serviced by Audi and found the air filters have never been changed since new and when asked they reply thats extra or thats not part of that service, thats when you discover that oil and filter change alone is £150 +vat, I buy quantum spec oil on eBay along with a Bosch filter for sub £40, an hour of my time job done, I must be doing something right as the car is now at over 180k and as I said before Audi genuine is someone else's quality part in a badge engineered box at twice the price. Steve.

Hello W. Midlands Steve, To avoid undue dismantling and expense:- consider measuring the outside diameter and buying the appropriate straight connector to re join. If it’s a very low pressure breather, you could even find that a plastic push fit connector may suffice. Should be plenty on EBay. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Owned an A6 AVANT since 2014. Just refreshed to 2019 model. Already looking forward to the bills after a 9 month gap.

Stranger here but no stranger to Audi, have had a number going back years - the last one an A8 4.0TDi - prior to that an A6 Avant, fancied a change so deserted to Jaguar having been a Jag fan since I got my first long trousers but could never afford one- yeh I am ancient. Anyhow After 9 years in Jaguars - an ZF SV8 and an XJL I've had enough, the itch has been scratched, I was going to get into a Bentley or even a Rolls but I happened upon something that interested me. Bottom line I just dropped some coin on a 2015 S4 black edition Avant which is currently in 'preparation', car is already stage 1, just getting a full service and a couple of jobs done. I've had a VAG product in some shape or form for the last 30 or so years - we also run a Passat B7 Estate - but a sensible 2.0TDi - I don't know how many here work on their own vehicles but I try to do 90% of my own stuff, have owned VCDS for a very long time, never had to code anything as I always had a tame VW tech in my pocket that had the access to handle such things, alas he retired and is no longer able. Anyhow happen I'll be around for a bit to see what the scene here is like.

Youngster Kev! Bless you. I too hope 2024 is kind to you, and although I’m grateful for 2023, it’s taken its opportunity to be not as good as it could have been, but hey, I’m old and passed my sell by date. Still….onward and upward. We all have to take what 2024 brings, but let’s hope it will be kinder. I feel it will be. You take care Kev. Kind regards, Gareth.

Think the holes in the seals is normal

Thankyou for your reply. My brother is a mechanic and he said the same. I booked in for it to be looked at. Was told to expect it to be not cheap. While waiting for the day, I decided to buy a new battery myself and try it. And it works. And the spare! I'm assuming the battery was almost dead and the one in my spare was dead so when I swapped them over that's why it worked intermittently. I'm cross with the guy in the key place though for telling me it wasn't the battery. He could have cost me a fortune 😫

Id recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. I'm wondering if your battery is failing if it's old as a failing battery can throw up unusual electrical gremlins.

Pande. It would help if you could describe the noise. Is it a rattle, a whistle, a rumble, a grinding noise, or something else? I realise it may be difficult if you are using a translator from Bulgarian. but we need a few more clues.

If your garage is only repeating the pressure test it did a few weeks earlier, and which failed to reveal a leak, it seems it has run out of ideas. Time to take the car elsewhere. Did you or the garage investigate the possibility of an air lock that I mentioned three weeks ago?

Hi why bother with a remap when the new car will perform as well as your old car if not better, its all about how the torque curve is used on the existing map, I think you may find there is only a marginal difference in some aspects of the new cars performance especially when the newer engine has an extra 200cc which is a whole lot more to play with, go to the other end and in the early eighties Lancia did a Lancia Y10 three cylinder Turbo which at 1ltr was capable of over 105mph with a very respectable 0-60. Steve.

Is this the same clunk you posted about on June 11th, and which you failed to respond to Gareth's suggestion?

Update, I've just inspected & found the V belt to have split in half & snapped. It looked to be in pretty bad shape. Its been squealing a bit recently & the AC was regassed two weeks prior & has been on most of the time putting more strain on an already old & 'past it' V belt. I'll get a new one fitted & report my findings back.

Yes I did Gareth after checking that its was a 2012 Facelift and thus no engine issues but thanks for the warning. So far it is great except for fuel consumption where I am getting high 20s mpg. Alas I have been spoilt by my family Skoda Karoq which gives is mid 40s!

Hello - whoever you are? The main moderator on here more often than not welcomes newly joined members with his view that we are a friendly bunch - which I like to think we are, or at least we try to be. Saying it as it is, or at least as I see it, it disappoints to hear opinion that ….’Seem to (too) that this site is dead.’ We all do our best when we can with the knowledge we have, and indeed spend quite a bit of time doing it. This very much a personal view, but my dislike is for first time posters not to register their actual names, and to be flippant with their actual location - such as ‘Earth’. It just renders them anonymous, and non approachable. Again as I see it, you joined and posted your plea for assistance on the same day 14 days ago. David gave his time to try to respond to you yesterday, yet you rebuke that assistance by letting us know ‘too late - I fixed it two weeks ago’ - must have been the day you joined and posted then! Apologies we couldn’t have given you an instant reply ChatYBB - or whoever. Please excuse the rather direct reply, which may not reflect the views of the forum in general. Kind regards, Gareth.