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We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Hi. I changed the battery in the main key yesterday, and it did not fix the issue. However, the fault didn't appear today for some reason. I hope it will stay that way.

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. Regards Steve.

I think I'll still be doing mine every 5 years or as close to it as I financially can, purely for my own peace of mind. On my Audi app now it even shows up, saying it's to be changed every 225k with no time interval below it.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

The thermostat does not control the fans, that is the job of the temperature sensor. (Strictly speaking, any switch that is controlled by temperature is a thermostat, but let's not be distracted by that as it is contrary to convention in cars.) That the indicated temperature goes no higher than 70 without the fans suggests to me that either the thermostat remains open all the time or that the temperature reading is wrong. Does the temperature reading drop to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold? Do you have a way to independently measure the temperature using a hand held infra red meter for example? At this stage I can not say whether the ECON fault is related to the temperature fault. I suggest you ignore it for the moment, but bear it in mind if you get other indications of a general electrical problem.

It was the thermostat !! Thanks guys

Hi you should never put a kink in any part of the washer pipe as this will cause all sorts of problems the pipes are routed with gentle bends and you will never lose pressure because both circuits from the pump have anti drain-back valves so when the pump is not being used the valves shut to maintain the pressure, example, last summer one of my cab colleagues could only get his washers to work at the front with the bonnet up, turns out he had replaced all the feed tubes with silicone hoses but forgotten to do each section against the old pipe so the one that went to the tank was about 10mm to short and kinked when he closed the bonnet, thats how critical it is.

Hi I thought you might have one you made earlier hidden somewhere, I totally endorse your sentiments, but I can honestly say that the myth of premium brand will not bear close scrutiny, yes the paint and leather seats first class but as for the rest of it, the same as any other manufacturers they go wrong and are very complex to diagnose and fix and unless Audi get their customer service act together they will lose many customers, allied to their starship parts prices it is not good, just as an exercise I priced a new engine for mine on ETKA £12000 +vat for a bare engine, thats over half the price of a good late A6 second hand as for the legendary full service history its not worth the paper its printed on, look at the guys that have posted about 2-3 year old cars serviced by Audi and found the air filters have never been changed since new and when asked they reply thats extra or thats not part of that service, thats when you discover that oil and filter change alone is £150 +vat, I buy quantum spec oil on eBay along with a Bosch filter for sub £40, an hour of my time job done, I must be doing something right as the car is now at over 180k and as I said before Audi genuine is someone else's quality part in a badge engineered box at twice the price. Steve.

Hello W. Midlands Steve, To avoid undue dismantling and expense:- consider measuring the outside diameter and buying the appropriate straight connector to re join. If it’s a very low pressure breather, you could even find that a plastic push fit connector may suffice. Should be plenty on EBay. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Darren, I always find a telephone chat is the best. Personally, I wouldn’t use anything other than LUK/ Sachs. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Xenon, Sorry to hear about your issue, and the garage’s difficulty in resolving it. Possibly too simplistic, but I wonder whether the rear end electrical issues are a coincidence, and not actually related to the work done. If it were mine, I would be eliminating the possibility that the issue is due to fractured wires in the flexible harness section twixt the body and the tailgate. This is a favourite place for wires to fracture after many years of opening and closing - particularly in this cold weather. Always worth an eliminating look at. Similar inspection with flexible section leading into the driver door. Perhaps you could let us know how they get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

It must be all those fire breathing dragons Gareth. Audis can't take the heat. Happy Christmas. Cliff.

So, after much debate they have reinstated the original finance deal, maybe my threat to walk away from the deal spurred theM into action. Therefore, I now have the vehicle registration number and the finance in place so now awaiting the delivery date to be confirmed. A long slow and protracted process throughout, customer service and information needs a major overhaul in my opinion. Just the final hurdle of delivery to overcome now, hopefully next week.

Hello, Unfortunately, I didn't. It took me many hours of browsing forums and engaging in further discussions with the garages before I decided to map out the unit. Since I've conducted some research, may I advise you to consider the following: Check and clean the Adblue connections. Follow the pipes from the Adblue tank to the engine and see if you can identify any frost-like abrasions. If yes, replace the pipes. Also, try going for an extended ride; sometimes the nozzle can become blocked, and if you drive for a longer duration, it may clear the blockage. Lastly, if none of the above helps (this was my case), you should typically replace the Adblue pump as the sensor is integrated with the pump and cannot be replaced separately (expensive). I hope you'll find a straightforward solution. Oh, forgot to mention that you need to top up the Adblue. If your level is low, this can sometimes trigger the same error. Good luck.

Hi why bother with a remap when the new car will perform as well as your old car if not better, its all about how the torque curve is used on the existing map, I think you may find there is only a marginal difference in some aspects of the new cars performance especially when the newer engine has an extra 200cc which is a whole lot more to play with, go to the other end and in the early eighties Lancia did a Lancia Y10 three cylinder Turbo which at 1ltr was capable of over 105mph with a very respectable 0-60. Steve.

Hello Keith, Welcome and thanks for joining. Try entering your registration number into ‘Parts in Motion’ website, and they should come up with a variety of brands of parts. In terms of rear suspension bushes, just go for the complete arms - they are that expensive. Incase it helps, I’ve used Febi parts to good avail. I wouldn’t buy on cheapest will do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I don’t have any connection with Parts in Motion, except having bought a variety of parts off them and had a good service and competitive prices.

Hi Imran I have a 1997 80 cabriolet which has alloy trim around the wind screen and along the side and round the roof compartment, it was badly tarnished when I bought it and I tried everything to remove it including commercial tarnish remover, it didn’t work! I eventually tried a woodturners wax that contains a very minute amount of very fine grit in it, it worked wonders at removing the tarnish and brought the trim back almost like new. I applied it by wrapping a clean cloth round my index finger, picking up some wax and working it in small circular movements, leaving it for a few minutes then buffing it, not only did it remove 95% of the tarnish but also left a protective coat on the alloy to prevent it from tarnishing again. I have attached a pic of the wax i used, it should be available on EBay or you could try any of the woodturners supplies sites. If you don’t want to go to the trouble of hunting this brand down you could look for an alternative wax but just be careful of its abrasive content, the wax I used worked very well and you wouldn’t want to use an abrasive wax that would damage the finish. The wax I used is called “U Beaut” EEE-Ultra Shine. ‘Hope this helps! Turlough.

Worth checking under the bonnet for the exact location of the leak as maybe a small bore air pipe from the compressor to the strut or alternatively the strut itself is leaking. maybe get someone to cycle the ignition to run the compressor

Hi all chip boxes normally work on the same principle they fool the fuel rail temp sensor in to thinking the car is running cold so the ECU tells the injection system to run richer to warm the engine quicker, the result of this is constant over fuel which will wash the cylinders and then head into the sump and contaminate the oil. Steve.

Thanks everyone for the help, it's now booked in to get belt, tensioners, water pump and alternator belt done next wk.

Update it's been a long time since the original post so I thought I would update what I did after removing the cam carrier and with all valves closed, the pressure test was not conclusive in that it passed the initial test on all cylinders but failed a repeat test, I suspected that the pressure tester was faulty. I tested it in a closed circuit and it leaked I assumed that the original test was OK and that the second failed test was due to breakdown of the of the tester. Having taken off the cam carrier the problem was cam timing setup so purchased a gig but it was impossible to accurately set them up with this bit of kit after a long process the suppliers gave me a refund after sending the unit back. What I did to time the cams:- I used the cam carrier one cam has a horizontal slot in it so I used small bit of steel and a feeler gauge to get the cam perfectly horizontal in the cam carrier I then offered up the second cam to the carrier using a long socket on a flat surface of that cam to set the indents in that cam in the complete vertical position then checking the other cam with the long socket. Having setup the cams i now fabricated a holder or cam clamp very simple two pieces of wood with four holes in each piece setting the strips of wood so they would not inter fear with the installation I passed two medium cable ties through each piece of wood so that they secured the cams to the the carrier (My Cam Holder Gig). It worked flawlessly. My TT back on the road and running well.

The haldex and transfer box are separated and take different oils. They do not share oil.