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Hi Steven...welcome to the Forum I wonder if the springs are from a diesel engine version which would be heavier and therefore maybe the ride height is higher with only the weight of a petrol engine in it? Otherwise, you got yourself a bargain there! Cheers Trevor

HI Calvin...welcome to the Forum I would agree with everything that Magnet has said but it may also be worth checking the number plate lights as there may be two of them and only one working? Let us know how you get on with it all Cheers Trevor

Hi Simon...welcome to the Forum I don't think you can go wrong with an early(ish) A4 and I would always prefer a Diesel for the economy and durability. As regards what to look for...service history from a reputable garage, not particularly a dealership and ensure all planned maintenance replacement items (such as cambelt and fluids) are replaced when they should have been. Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers Trevor

Best to check the difference in tread depth as overall rolling diameter (if on 4WD/AWD systems) can affect the transmission and ABS

Hi Mark...welcome to the Forum I was tempted to ask how the pigeon got on but thought better of it. I suppose if you're not using the Air Con until the condenser is replaced (along with the grille) then you could remove it or refit it then. Let us know how you get on with it all Cheers Trevor

Hi Tony...welcome to the Forum Looking forward to reading your posts in the future. Cheers Trevor

Hi Adam....welcome to the Forum Also, welcome back to the wonderful world of Audi Cheers Trevor

Hi Paul...welcome to the Forum Just fire away with your problems...remember 'a problem shared is a problem halved' or something like that! Cheers Trevor

Hi Mark...welcome to the Forum Very nice car! Post up some photos if you like Cheers Trevor

You could ask a VW Audi specialist motor factor to see if they can narrow down the engine code to see if has a balance shaft.

Hi Paul...welcome to the forum That doesn't sound too bad if they can guarantee (i doubt they would though) that the fluid change will solve the problem. Also, they would use the correct fluids which is not too bad when you look at the overall cost Cheers Trevor

It certainly sounds temperature related (temperature will alter resistance of electrical circuits) so i would look for a major fuse (60 - 100 amp) or thermal link to start with. Keep us informed of how you get on with this Cheers Trevor

It certainly looks lovely...enjoy it !

It's certainly worth asking the question I suppose...see where it gets you

ouch! £266 is a lot of money...however, it does resolve it and allow you to use the system that's already there

Not sure if the following is of any help

There are some covers on this link with the badge on it http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A8-S8/Other-Engines--Engine-Parts/61304

Can sometimes be a mixed blessing as cam chains can also break the same as belts...think the 3.0 TDi is okay though

Worth paying the garage yourself for them to load it up with a new cambelt at the same time and you only pay a small amount of labour (if anything at all)

Hi...and welcome to the Forum Check this company out http://www.audiupdates.com/ Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

That's great to know...thanks for the update. Handy link to the tool if anyone else would like to get one http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/4807/

Hi Leo....welcome to the Forum I would take the car to a reputable garage who can carry out good old fashioned diagnosis on the engine/cooling system. One test I would definitely get carried out is a block test (a test with a clear tube partially filled with liquid which then changes colour if there is combustion gas present) as this will confirm whether coolant is entering the combustion chambers but not necessarily exactly from where it is coming through. The test would take around 3 minutes and cost about £10. If the test does not show combustion gas present then there is no problem there and coolant is leaking externally from the engine (and hoses) or transmission fluid cooler (automatic only) or even the heater matrix. Another option for loss of coolant is defective pressure cap on the expansion tank...cheap to replace. Another option to slow down leaks through porous heads is to put some coolant 'stop leak' (the liquid version) into the coolant and this blocks minute holes. This option can sometimes last the life of the engine. Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers Trevor

Hi Vicky I would totally agree with everything that Magnet has stated and in particular, ensure the diagnosis is carried out correctly rather than condemning parts or even the complete engine. Brakes, I would also agree that it is where the engine has shut-off and the servo assistance is lost. Keep us informed on the progress. regards Trevor

It could be the water pump but with the thermosyphon principle of coolant circulation within the engine, it should still circulate coolant to the top of the engine. The only other thing to do would be to backflush the cooling system by running a hose through it in the opposite direction to normal flow....that'll flush out any crap in there.

Hi Ethan...welcome to the Forum also