Magnet

Thanks Alice, hope you find it a good home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Frankie, Or you could just try squirting some WD40 or similar down the under-bonnet suspension top mounts - where the suspension legs rotate, and see if that influences the noise. If not, I would strongly advise you get the car examined at a trusted local garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Price please Alice ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Or Aliexpress - ?

Welcome Steve and thanks for joining. Your EML light wouldn’t have anything to do with Audi’s attempts to slap your wrists because it believes you haven’t serviced the car. Sorry, but I don’t understand the ‘….if it’s still on after this service….’ So do you intend to get it serviced again, 3.5K miles and 4 months on from when you had it serviced last? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex, So have you filled up again to know how many gallons you have used to cover your 350 miles, and work out your mpg? Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you looked on EBay Matt? Should find suppliers of varying colours -and stitching etc. Patterns maybe an issue, but…. Have you done a Google search for ‘custom car mats’ or similar? Kind regards, Gareth.

Back with you now Matt, but not very conclusive I’m afraid. My 2003 Walker catalogue ( which would have been very much applicable to your year -then) doesn’t actually list the cabriolet, but does list the same middle section for both salon and estate V6s between 1994 and 1996 - Walker no. 21198. My theory for what it’s worth ( and an unproven theory it is!) is that the cabriolet had a unique-to-body centre section - possibly due to additional cross bracing etc.-? - and that section was probably never made in the aftermarket, due the relatively low volume demand. I could be wrong, but…… How much different to yours is the saloon/estate section?? Since you said you wanted something a bit more noisy, then the option forward would be to get your section fabricated in stainless, and modified further if that’s what you want. Sorry this isn’t conclusive, but at least you are now better armed. Kind regards, Gareth.

I read that somewhere too, but in my experience - no. Probably written by someone with some modules they want to sell! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Welcome and many thanks for joining. Hope you have better luck than Paddy, who must have been too affected by all of this to even acknowledge - leave alone offer thanks for the advice given! This advice will still stand for your situation. ‘..I have no response from any of the sensors…’ What response are you looking for James? My take on this ( if you have the same symptoms as Paddy) is that one or more of the sensors are at fault. Module failures are much much rarer. Module is usually located in the boot side - probably driver side. I think you will need 5 mins with the diagnostic to indenting the culprit sensor. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh sorry Matt. Been back a while, but the forgetory had cut in. Will be back to you shortly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jean, Regrettably, don’t think you are giving us enough in-depth detail to be able to comment. I would strongly suggest that if your son is dissatisfied with the service he is getting, then it would be in his best interest to find another recommended garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gina, Welcome and thanks for joining. The brake lights sometimes have two bulbs in them . One can fail, but you still have a brake light. Test would be to get an assistant to press the brake pedal when it’s dark while you assess the light intensity on both rear lights. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, You are simply repeating the question to which Steve has already replied. When you say the engine is not turning on (over?) are you trying this with the gear in neutral?

Many thanks Nigel, Probably not bought from a main dealer due to age of vehicle -? I think what you have suffered from is cheapest repair option. Although I understand where you are coming from in respect of ‘always fit in pairs’ ( discs and pads), I don’t necessarily think this is always necessary - proviso:- the disc surfaces are reasonably free from scoring, and will remain within thickness tolerance through the life of the new set of pads, and are not suffering from vibration on braking. The latter may actually be introduced on fitting new discs. In your case, there is absolutely no doubt that the discs are totally shot, and your principle should have applied without question. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies for my confusion in my old age, but can someone perhaps explain how this has been marked as a solution - and by whom?

Welcome David, Cliff raises a good point, so let’s have some clarification - do your reversing sensors work? If so the switch should be serviceable. Perhaps you could let us know before we move on to more complex checks. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Can see you have revisited the forum. Do you intend to fill in the detail or not?

Hello William, My hearing is poor, so unfortunately the recording doesn’t do anything for me. Suggestion:- remove the auxiliary belt when cold and test again. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Julie, Welcome and thanks for joining. What is the capacity (cc) of your engine, and what has been the service history of the car during your ownership - from new? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Michelle, This is starting to reveal itself as a possible multi-leak situation, and not necessarily restricted to the boot, by the sound of it. As such, I think its resolution requires a methodical approach, by trying to eliminate each possible site in turn. Unfortunately it’s going to entail first removing carpeting trim from the boot sides etc. and checking and double checking that the boot lid can be quickly opened via the key once the lid is closed. The reason for that is that you now need to find a small agile assistant who is prepared to get into the boot, - armed with a light - once you are equipped with a hose. Before going any further, do you feel this is within your capabilities? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michelle, So does the car normally live its life outside, or is it normally garaged? Is the inside of the car dry? Possibly pessimistic, but I think you are onto a hiding-for-nothing to be returning the car back to the seller. If it were mine, I would now be adopting a DIY detective approach to finding the leak site/s. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michelle, and thanks for joining. Assuming the car is parked outside-? If so - One question:- Do you get water ingress simply when it’s raining and the car is parked and not in use? Is the water ingress worse when actually driven under road-wet conditions? Kind regards, Gareth.

So back to the question:- Do you know the camshaft was actually turning when you had the zero compression values? I guess the answer is no - ? Heavy carbon build up on some valves-? I’d be considering the likelihood of oil burning on that/those cylinders, suggesting bore or ring wear.

Well fair do’s to you - as we say in these parts:- You have won the major prize for the greatest lack of detail of any post within the last year! Why?? No name, no model, no year, no location. Oh, and no Please! Perhaps we can ask you a question - how are we supposed to help you - whoever you are?? You aren’t AI by any chance? No highly unlikely.