cliffcoggin

I can't help on that score John.

Even if the 19" fits the well it should not be used as a replacement for a 21" wheel, unless it has a suitably high profile tyre to compensate for its smaller diameter.

It may be as simple as the key fob battery or as difficult as defective circuitry. Either way, take it back to the dealer.

That's unfortunate, but I don't know what else to suggest. I would guess the number plate light now being constantly illuminated is the cause of the original switch failure rather than a consequence of the new switch. Melting of the switch would undoubtedly be caused by a high resistance inside it, or else an unusually high current draw. An auto electrician should be able to help.

You may be lucky enough to find a secondhand original switch in a car breaker's. Many of them are online nowadays.

It may well be lack of oil causing the fault, so that's the first thing to sort out before looking further. If that does not cure it the next thing to look at is the mechatronic control module, though be warned repair will be expensive.

That means nothing to me as I don't use a code reader. Doesn't your code reader have an explanation of what the codes mean?

Do I understand correctly that the VIN on the car is not the same as the VIN on the paperwork? If so, your car is possibly stolen or the paperwork is fake. I suggest you take it back to the vendor as soon as possible to get the matter resolved. It may be a simple clerical error as the dealer claimed, or it could be more sinister. Either way you need to have it resolved.

In that case I suggest you test the switch which is the most likely cause of the fault. Code 30 does not seem like any fault code I have ever seen, which normally have a letter followed by four digits.

Chris. In your place I would be more concerned at ensuring the car has a complete service history than an ancient recall or update. As for the free health check, bear in mind that nothing worthwhile in life is ever free. The only checks that will be done are those that any sensible person would do before buying a car.

Test it as already described earlier in the thread. Look for continuity in the element when switched off, and voltage at the element terminals when switched on.

A simple "Thank you" would have been enough, but evidently even that is too much effort.

I'm glad to read it, but what exactly was the problem, and how did you solve it?

Matthew. I have hidden your duplicate topic.

The voltage is too low. Get the battery tested professionally on deep discharge test equipment.

I knew in general terms how catalytic convertors and oxygen sensors worked, but was not aware of details, and yet I did not feel inclined to delve into technical discussions. Then I came across the following video on a Youtube channel that I subscribe to. It clearly explains the role of cats and O2 sensors in plain language, so I am posting a link here as a reference for everybody on the forum . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aytf6ARcs8s

It's unfortunate that cars with those dreadful engines are still permitted to be sold. Even worse is that the trade knows about the fault and yet conceals it from buyers. Be aware that you might have a problem at the next MOT test. All the oil the car is burning will be measured as emissions in the exhaust.

Any comment on the above responses Mark? I know you have seen them.

So is it your wife or the car that is in a bodyshop?

The pictures are too dark for me to see any detail. Is the height from wheel centre to wheel arch the same both sides?

Thanks for letting us know. You mentioned a price in dollars so does that mean you imported it from America?

My guess is that it is related to cruise control. If you can post a photo it may be useful to others more knowledgeable than me.

Any comment on the above responses Jake? I know you have seen them.

You think so, or you know so? What other companies have you contacted?

There are several company's doing this sort of work. ECU Testing is one that comes to mind.