Steve Q

How odd. Do the part numbers match?

Well that's a nice result 😊

Think the obd fuse is in the fuse box at the left end of dash and is in the middle row of fuses, brown holder and is fuse location #12

The video on my previous reply might help. Also the Ross tech site has lots of useful information: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_Q7_(4L) Specific details on their battery section: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement I believe the obd port is fused so might be worth checking the fuse. This video might help with connecting obd11 to it: https://youtu.be/QH283J1Wkno?si=-ByYuL3bZ8fBi2DB

This video shows you how to code it: Might be worth you getting an auto electrician to come and code it.

Ah, it'll need to be coded. This link might help further: https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3405132.html Have you still got the old battery?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch. Was the battery coded to the car when it was fitted? Well done for trying to plug it in. You'll definitely need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up? Have you got home start with breakdown cover? Also I've hidden your other thread as it's a duplicate. Cheers Steve

This was fitted to the MK3 TT. This link should help with some further info: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/exhaust-note-change-with-drive-select.1103026/ https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk3-discussion-207/exhaust-sound-settings-2988732/ You're looking for any model you can switch driving modes, which I think most MK3 TT can.

It's odd that the second motor would have the same characteristics. I'd recommend having the electrics checked.

It's also because the Japanese MOT is stricter

What did the person say who did the test?

If you're unsure if you're driving it incorrectly you could get someone else to drive it to see if they have the same experience. Alternatively I'd recommend getting it to a garage to be checked.

We're seeing cases where people have e blanked/deleted the dpf and egr and then they experiencing other engine issues as the engine runs hotter. If you're deleting the egr it might be worth just blanking it off when getting it deleted from the map. Because if the egr can be seen easily by an MOT tester normally and they notice it's missing then you could end up with a fine as they can prove you've tried to tamper with the vehicle emissions. It might be under the engine cover in that case it's not so bad as MOT testers can't remove parts.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

This would all depend if a genuine or a cheap egr has been fitted. As the old saying goes it get what you pay for. It could just be a sensor.

If it ain't broke don't fix it is my view but others might have different opinions.

Japanese imports will be good quality. However, I believe the Wiring and computer systems will be more difficult to navigate if it needs repair. Happy to be proven wrong through.

I could have e sworn they both have the same ride height.

I believe it could be the pollen filter housing

I agree with Cliff. It could also potentially be a defective headlight switch

Yep I suspect it can be replaced or repaired. You might be better getting an auto electrician to take a look

The heating and engine temp should be consistent when running. There could be an issue with the system and id recommend getting it into a garage to be checked

Glad you got sorted 😊

Have you had a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up?

You're welcome 🙂