Leaderboard

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Confirmed water pump, being replaced under warranty

Hi I love things like this as it denies the Audi Stealers their lives blood, overcharging they probably get the filters for about a fiver each, they never change the filter and if left it causes all sorts of other problems, by rights an air filter should be changed every year regardless of milage as no one has microscope eyeballs that can see how blocked the filter medium pores are, think about it, more cleaner air so the ECU is not constantly correcting the injector factors to allow for the lack of it. Steve.

Could be valve guide seals weeping a bit overnight. Try lifting your foot off the accelerator letting the wheels drive the car on over run, then accelerate fairly briskly if they is blue smoke it could be the valve guides.

Replaced mine this week after its Audi service. Surprise, surprise another thing not included in their 'service plan'. Anyway, they quoted £48 to supply and fit but I bought the filter myself from ECP for £25 and spent 10 mins to fit. I have very little mechanical knowledge and it's quite easy. Unclip Maf Loosen the pipes from holders on airbox Undo Torx Screws Remove filter Filter twists off, although after 5 mins of fighting thinking it was stuck there's a small tab which you need to press to release it. Hoover out airbox Replace via reverse. Pics of mine, not sure if ever replaced and the car was on 76k so well overdue by the look of it!

Hello - whoever you are. Sorry to start off on a negative note , but you give us very little to go on - no name, no location, no year of the car, no info on service history, no MOT history, number of owners, and last change of owner, who (company?) has put this vehicle to the mileage covered? Whether you have requested a service history print out via. an Audi dealer-? High mileage vehicles can be better than ultra low mileage in some respects, but frequency of servicing become paramount. l Again with apologies, but do the homework and at least give us something to advise on! We do like to help on here, but you really do need to help yourself, to help us. Just in passing:- I’ll quote the outspoken Dewar ( of Dewar whisky) ‘ If we are put on this earth to help one another, what are the others doing to help themselves?’ Kind regards, Gareth.

Whatever the precise cause Joshua, there is no cheap or quick fix for that sort of problem. Take it back for a refund before it is too late, and don't be deterred by excuses, delaying tactics, or prevarication from the seller.

In line with other forums, may I be allowed to mark the passing of our Queen, and offer condolences, as we would with any other family who have just lost a loved one. Having experienced my childhood before the start of her reign, and lived and worked throughout it, I firmly believe that we have enjoyed the best decades so far. With all the bad news surrounding the immediate future, let’s hope that things will turn out to be not as bad as forecast, yet perhaps we should respect that we cannot continue to take tomorrow for granted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Years ago, after my warranty ran out on my A6 Avant I decided to do my own oil change, What a chor to have to remove the under tray just to change the oil. I decided to do something about it, so I cut an access hole in the under tray. Oil changes are now so easy.

Hi please see the pics posted of my bumper just don't get the gun to close and keep it moving otherwise you will set light to the plastic best engage a suitable assistant to gently massage the other side when heating, BTW I DID NOT DO THE FILLING OR SPRAYING after, but in saying that yours is a straight edge which any competent spray shop should be able to do for a few quid as a side job.

Thanks to all those who have contributed to this forum. I have had the message servo restricted several times and message went off, me thinking all ok!! until message appeared again and and ABS was kicking in when driving. Found this forum and it was central to me sorting issue, changed (2 minute job) said sensor having got it sent from Phil at Cardiff Audi parts direct. All appears well now, no warning messages and stop start working and hopefully ABS saved!! Again a big thank you to this forum.

Thanks Christian, I’m now at an age where I tend to say what I think, and there is a lot that could be said, but I’m not too fussed on spending the time to do that with you - on here or otherwise. Obviously if there are contra opinions, then the members will be keen to make contact with you - and let’s hope they do- but judging by your responses to date from other contact mediums, I wouldn’t put my (in caps) money on it - but fingers crossed for you. Cutting to the chase, and very much a personal view, I feel if you took this idea to ‘Dragon’s Den’ you would be shot down in flames with a barrage of ‘I’m out’ s. To bring you up to date, I’ve chosen to leave the future of this thread in the hands of the Forum Administrator. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hope you have some luck in finding a replacement A6 at auction.

Hello all, I've recently bought the most poverty spec 230k mile A6 in the world! It's a 2.0 TDI, with no bluetooth, no parking sensors, no reversing camera, no leather/electric/heated seats, no map based Sat-Nav! But at least it works, and I quite like it, and it's the cheapest car to run (per mile) of any car I've recently owned! 🙂 (Until diesel prices increase that is.) It is an Audi however, so it does have a check engine light on. It throws codes for an engine mount solenoid, the front passenger door control module (which doesn't unlock the door) and a low battery voltage, so if anyone knows a good place to pickup cheap engine mounts and door control modules let me know! I have made some changes to it, Full oil change, new front brakes, new tyres all round and wind deflectors. I'd love some decent alloys and coil overs in the future, and maybe tint the rear windows. 🙂

This

I have a 72 plate Q5 40tdi owned for 12 months and used mainly for longer journeys. Absolutely no DPF issues whatsoever. In addition prior to that I had 2 diesel Evoques and a Discovery sport again used mainly for long journeys between Cumbria and Northumberland. No issues at all on any of these. The Q5 gives me about 45mpg on most trips. The Evoques gave about 43mpg.

I'll drive the car tomorrow for a bit so let's see if removing the shelf can help me pinpoint the root cause of the sound.

i booked in for a gear box oil change online for my audi a4 tdi 2011.they came back to me as not needed.but at 196k my 1st & 2nd gears are notchy sometimes.(have to double clutch).so ive checked with a garage. £150-£180.not booked in yet.

Whether you use the door or not, the wiring in the passenger door is the same age as that in the driver's door, and prone to the same embrittlement as a result of age. As a zero cost check I suggest it is worth having a look.

Hi all, thanks for your replies, I'm going to look at the wiring inside the bellows between the door and the body. Either way I'll post the results when I get the chance to investigate.

Worth checking under the bonnet for the exact location of the leak as maybe a small bore air pipe from the compressor to the strut or alternatively the strut itself is leaking. maybe get someone to cycle the ignition to run the compressor

Hi for all the people who value stop start, had a rather interesting Volvo/Ford engineer as a passenger this week and rather than a lecture on electric vehicles he had my attention talking about stop/start, mine as usual was zoned out and he enquired why, I explained that my theory was it put added wear on the starter and ring gear he laughed and said it was highly unlikely as both components were beefed up to accommodate the extra loads but in fact my theory wasn't as far off as I thought, he then went on to tell me he was working with the oil companies to produce new nano tech oils because the existing engine technology is suffering with stop/start as when the engine is running the pressured oil forms a hydro barrier between the crank journals and the bearings, when the engine is stopped the journal/bearing come into contact and when the engine starts again there is a lapse between the oil pressure arriving to reinstate the hydro barrier, I.E. extra wear, he then explained that a normal engine is rated to start 50,000 times during its life and a stop/start engine will perform the same function over 500,000 times, so you can see where this is going and apparently the race is on to produce a coating for crank bearings that is self lubricating Teflon and Iron Oxide, Yes, Rust, which in fine particles reduces friction co efficient by 50%, also he explained that the engine conditions for stop/start have to be ideal as it won't work when the engine is too hot/cold or if you have the aircon working flat out, I have never experienced this as my stop/start is never on. Steve.

Too true. There's never a cheap fix for an Audi I find. The cars need proper maintenance and proper parts.