Magnet

Unfortunately Dean, the original poster joined the forum and last visited it, all on the same day, so I would suggest you PM him, and perhaps you would then be kind enough to post the outcome. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the contributions. Just to close off this thread, I’ve opted for Lemforder arms - one has already arrived and looks very well constructed - and Febi ball joints, since I feel that after 160k +, the originals warrant changing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Caroline, Thanks for being in touch. Perhaps you could let us know if you have owned the car long enough to know that this is an issue that has arisen during your ownership, or if you have bought a car with which you have inherited an already known issue. The fact that the engine oil is very black because the piston rings are wearing out, is an assumption - it could be black because it hasn’t been changed for some time. Could you tell us when the car last had a quality oil and filter change? If this were mine, I would first be treating it to a quality oil and filter change using say Quantum oil and a Bosch or Mann filter. You will then have a basing point from which to gauge its oil consumption. I would also be doing what Steve suggests, and taking the car for a 10 mile run to ensure the oil is up to operating temperature, then leaving the car idle for a couple of minutes and blip the accelerator and observe any blue smoke from the exhaust. If this clears, rev the engine to about 3000rpm fairly quickly and again observe any blue smoke. We take it there aren’t any visible oil leaks. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mat, I applaud your principle of spending wisely on quality parts, since you aren’t paying any labour bills. I still question the reasoning behind changing the water pump, since genuine ones can be long lived. Genuine VAG parts mail order at discount? Might be worth trying Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors/Cardiff Audi as was), and/or Aberdeen Audi - both are usually accommodating with a bit of discount. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Nick, I’m near Cardiff, but hopefully someone on here might be close enough to advise. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, The holder is usually screwed to the bumper, rather than stuck with double sided tape. However, you don’t need to remove the holder to change the plate. This holder has far more visible fixings than normal, but the way I would attempt to remove the existing plate would be to move the plate down in the holder as far as possible, before trying to move the upper lip of the holder up enough around the centre of its length to be able to start to tease the plate out. Warming the holder and plate with a hair dryer usually helps - principally in the area you are attempting to start removing the plate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mat, Sounds almost certain to be thermostat issues. Couple of points:- what make thermostat are you intending to replace it with? Is the water pump leaking or noisy? If not, why change it? Again, if yay are intent on changing it, what make are you going to buy? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Did the car overheat or the temperature gauge go above normal when the car lost a reservoir full of coolant? The car obviously needs inspection to determine where your coolant is going - assuming you can’t see any visible evidence of a leak. One simply test you can do before entrusting the car to a trusted local garage, is to ensure the reservoir is topped up to the max. mark, before taking the car on a 10 mile run. Immediately on your return, rev. the car to a steady just-under-2000rpm, and observe whether there is any undue (white?) smoke from the exhaust. If this were mine, I would be booking this in without delay. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. Take it it’s diesel??

Hello Rebecca, I think the forum would benefit from a more detailed description of the symptoms, to be able to offer any constructive advice. One test you could do is to take the car on say a 5 mile run, then very lightly touch the centres of each wheel to feel if any are hotter than the rest - touch very lightly and tentatively, as if you would be testing to see how hot something is. If this were mine, and I was in your situation, then I would be getting the car inspected by a trusted local garage - the car is trying to tell you something! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve and Cliff, I understand what you say about putting new bushes in my arms, but there are a number of restrictors making this impractical. I would not confidently reuse these 15 year old arms without having a facility to grit blast them, since I’m yet to find any amount of rubbing down and treating, to be a permanent solution to rust. The main issue here is that the old three score and ten has long since passed, and I’ve been ‘banned’ from carrying what would be termed ‘heavy get out and get under’ work! Consequently, I’m getting this done by a local free lance mechanic, and obviously his time is at cost, so it’s a question of simply fitting best quality for money parts. I will be checking with Febi tomorrow to see if they do the pressed steel ones as well, and also looking at Lemforder, and some branded Moog - who are new to me, but I understand have been about for as long as I have, and may now be part of Federal Mogul - I think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Cliff, The cast ( forged) ones come complete with the offending bushes and the ball joint, with the Febi ones. Having used Febi as alternative aftermarket I have confidence in the quality of the bushes and the joint. The pressed steel ones are generally of unknown origin, and although I am not too concerned with the integrity of the structural metal, I am certainly concerned about the quality and anticipated service life of the bushes, hence the query about whether the forged are/aren’t actually interchangeable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, I could do with some been-there-done-that advice regarding the above. A couple of the bushes are showing signs of wear, so I’m intending to renew the arms . Current ones are pressed steel, and understandably are showing signs of rusting, so conclude its better to renew the arms now, rather than just the bushes. Problem:- Seems cast arms are available, and the intention was to use Febi Bilstein replacements, but now understand that they don’t interchange with the original steel ones. Steel ones are less readily available unless you use ‘unbranded’ ones ( cheaper) - some being advertised as being of German origin, but I’m reluctant to dip my toe into these without some experience. Questions:- Has anyone attempted to fitted cast arms as replacements for steel, and are they indeed not interchangeable -as I’ve been advised? Where replacement steel ones have been fitted, has anyone come up with reasonable aftermarket alternatives such as perhaps Lemforder or Meyle, and if so, any advice on competitive sources? Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello Arron, If you want genuine parts at discount then I would be following my advice and start searching EBay for Audi dealers who are selling there with a discount. As I say, Aberdeen Audi (ask for Malcolm) were one who were offering discounted prices - and will mail order. You will have to go on EBay to look for Brembo discs anyway - so one stop search. ‘.....speak to some local dealers ....’ . You might stand as much chance of getting a discount as I have of getting my hair back! I really wouldn’t waste their time and yours. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammad, Sorry to hear of your problem. I think your action from here depends on how long you’ve owned the car and what service you’ve had from it. In other words, if you’ve owned it for some time, and ‘had some money’s worth’ out of it, it might be better to cut your losses and buy something else with the the money you would spend on getting this fixed. You probably don’t need anyone to point out that the anticipated expenditure will exceed the current value of the car, so any decision should not be taken lightly, but of course, no one on here is privy to your circumstances. I can only really wish you good luck in whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Methods of buying have multiplied since I had hair, when you always bought locally - without exception. I may be old fashioned ( well actually I know I am), but what puts me off with buying sight-unseen at a distance, is the validity/ practicality of any warranties. Who wants to undertake say a 200 mile round trip back to the seller to get something rectified under warranty - just simply impractical. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, For a normal - non competitive - driving style, I simply stick with main dealer pads, generally available at discount from dealers such as Aberdeen Audi etc. (check EBay for similar listings). We did deviate once to what were then considered to be ‘reasonable’ quality aftermarket, but these were replaced after only a couple of months use due to the braking efficiency being well below that of the genuine Audi - so never again! Discs? Genuine VAG can be expensive, so I would suggest a premium brand such as Brembo.- again sourced via. EBay. This combination has stood us in good stead. Hope this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, Thanks for coming back on this. I’m sure you more than anyone, will appreciate the difficulties/impossibilities? of trying to diagnose the cause/s of such issues without examining the patient! All you going to end up on here with ( with all due respect) is a list of could be this/I had that with my car etc. The fact is that the car is trying to tell you something, and it now needs to be examined by a recommended ‘specialist consultant’. If this were mine, I would be concentrating my efforts on researching recommended garages in your area - not necessarily Audi specialists - but an establishment where you can talk to the principals, in person, and go through everything with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Gordon. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, I think valuable clues lye in the fact that this can be felt through the brake pedal, and that it seems to have disappeared for 2 months ( the longest symptom free period) when the brake discs and pads were renewed. What make discs and pads were used? I ask the question since your description smacks of symptoms of warped brake discs. If this were mine, I would be wanting to check the run-out on the discs as they are now, in their installed state, and if found to be warped, I would be extremely fussy to ensure the mating surface of the hub - where the disc fits - is scrupulously clean and sound. If genuine VAG discs haven’t/aren’t going to be used, then I would opt for Brembo, and not be very keen to use anything else. When fitting new pads, I would be again be very fussy to check that the caliper sliding pins were clean, suitably lubricated, and we’re moving freely. All of this would be my starting point, unless anyone else sees anything untoward on inspection. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello S?? I think you are right in concluding the rich mixture is an assumption. Personally, I not a fan of changing two things at the same time, but... Like the reference to using FedEx, Steve, but will it deliver the correct result?? Welcome back by the way. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, My procedure:- Assess the coolant level when cold - ideally when left to stand overnight. Top up to the max. mark. Use the car and inspect the level the following morning when cold. Should still be at the same level. Kind regards, Gareth.

Really surprising nobody wants this. It’s still sitting on the shelf, and not being destined for a good home, where it will be put to good use. If anyone wants it then please message me with what you consider to be a reasonable offer. Postage is possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ann, Sorry to hear of your issues. Pressure washers and cars simply don’t mix, and to my mind they should be avoided, due to the pressure they exert on potentially delicate paintwork, fabrics and particularly any piece of electronics. I’m not sure why owners use them on cars and expect minimal damage, when the average householder has witnessed what the generated pressure can do for their patio! I would say that if anyone contemplates using them on cars, they might like to consider using them as an alternative to a shower! Still..... I cannot claim this is the cause of your issue, but hoods generally are operated via. a number of delicate micro switches, and it’s possible that moisture has infiltrated one or more of these. Just a reasonable possibility - you may find that things return to normal in a couple of weeks as things dry out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vdm, Batteries can be the source of all sorts of issues, but surely in your case, where you have fault codes for steering angle sensors etc, that is where you should be looking. ECPare still attracting buyers then due to their continual discount codes. Good, isn’t it? Discount codes are fine, and up to 60% off may sound great, but 60% off what so called retail price. It’s what you eventually pay is the only important point, not the supposed x% off. In fact, it is not uncommon to be able to buy the same component cheaper via. their associate - Car parts for Less - even when C4L are discounting at a much lower %! Great marketing.

Hello George, Ruville I’ve never heard off, but sounds Continental, so guess it makes sense. Ina are bearing manufacturers, but as far as I’m aware, not belt manufacturers - so who makes their belts?? The answer should lie with you independent, if they have bought these kits previously. Gates were using INA tensioners and idlers in their kits kits - which would make sense since they are quality bearing suppliers. The all important water pump? Are you sure this isn’t available from VAG? Have you tried? Water pumps included in belt kits worry me. Kind regards, Gareth.

Tyres are new Richard.