cliffcoggin

I can't help in regard to those codes, but in view of a slipping clutch, an oil leak, and a noisy turbo I'd say you have been sold a pig in a poke. Take it back.

Jack. That belt is far too loose and is clearly jumping sprocket teeth. Since the belt also drives the camshaft there is a real risk of damaging the valves or the piston crowns, which would entail a horrendously expensive repair bill. Do not attempt to run the engine, or even turn it over on the starter, until it has been put right. If that means towing it to a garage or workshop, so be it, but the engine must not be run.

Jamie. A dodgy battery will cause all sorts of electrical problems even if the alternator is putting out a good charge. By the sound of it your vendor has put on the cheapest thing available, possibly even a secondhand battery. To not then secure the battery is compounding the problem because side loads during cornering are then taken on the cables. Batteries have securing straps for several very good reasons.

Look further down the list and you will see a recent thread on the cost of clutches. They are expensive enough to make pursuing your vendor worthwhile.

I really don't know if replacing the DPF alone will cure the problem. The lack of a service record is suspicious, as is the oil leak from an engine of only moderate mileage. Whether the cause is merely a defective injector or a totally clapped out engine, the repair will not be cheap. It could be more a question of whether it will cost a small fortune or a large one. I suggest before you make a decision on disposal, that you get the engine assessed by an Audi expert, preferably an independent rather than an Audi dealer with a vested interest.

Hello Anon. What's the mileage of the car? Are no entries in the service record, or is simply entirely "missing"?

Pierce. Cable damage seems to be a common fault, See other recent threads here.

Chris. Is it a two part prop shaft? If so it should have a pillow or doughnut shaped rubber mounting near the middle, and if that is soft or damaged it can lead to vibration.

I agree it's most likely associated with the wheels such as worn bearings, mismatched tyre patterns, or loose wheel studs; however it could also be caused by a worn suspension or transmission joint, so your prop shaft bearing is a possibility.

Belinda. I can't think of one single engine fault that would cause all the symptoms you describe, so I suspect there are many faults. I think the best place to start is to have the basic functions of the engine checked to ensure the rings and valves are in acceptable condition. If they are faulty they could well cause the plug fouling, overheating, oil loss, power loss etc. so you would need a new or re-conditioned engine.

Like you, I reckon the switch or its down connection is probably the culprit. It's the only common factor for both faults.

The clutch thrust bearing lever might have been fitted incorrectly. Can you feel the click as well as hear it?

Neil. I don't know how hard it is to fix those faults, but whether easy or hard you have nothing to lose by returning it to the seller first and try to get him to repair them.

Martin. Blue smoke is a good indicator that the engine is burning oil. Intermittent smoke in combination with difficult starting suggests the most likely problem is worn valves and seals, though at 200000 miles it is likely the bores and rings are also very worn. If you can get a compression test done and it confirms low compression I reckon you are facing an expensive repair or replacement of the engine.

My guess is that they have a common earth connection. Have you checked it?

Mark. The fault could be many things: injectors, rings, valves, ECU, cam position sensor. Grey smoke alone is not enough of a diagnostic tool to identify which with any certainty. A full diagnostic check at a garage is my best suggestion, unless you feel like stripping the engine.

Carley. You would be better off starting a new topic. I'm not saying you will get an answer but some folk may be ignoring this unrelated topic.

I hope the clutch is working properly after all that expense.

That's unfortunate. I suppose it shows the DMF is essential for smooth running.

Have you dipped the oil level?

I didn't know such conversions to solid flywheels were available. Incidentally I see it comes with a clutch included which makes the price of £365 very attractive.

Well as you have only 4.3 miles fuel left I'd say it was a low fuel level lamp.

Ouch! That's going to hurt the wallet. Thanks for letting us know.

What makes you so sure the heating pads are defective, rather than the controls, the switches, the fuses, or the connecting plugs? Have you checked any of them? It would be a shame to throw good money after bad by renewing pads that may be perfectly good, but if you happy to pay for the job to be done there are plenty of people in your area willing to do it. Hint: they all have Audi in their company names.

Being unhappy with a car isn't usually sufficient cause for a claim on the warranty unless you can show that it is defective. Given that you didn't test the seat heating, despite it being so important to you, I think you will have a hard time getting your money back. Nevertheless I wish you luck. PS. How long did you test the seat heating for? The only car I ever owned with electric seat heating (a Ford Granada from the last century,) took at least five minutes for some heat to permeate through the upholstery, and another ten to fifteen minutes for maximum temperature to be reached.