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We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham

The thermostat does not control the fans, that is the job of the temperature sensor. (Strictly speaking, any switch that is controlled by temperature is a thermostat, but let's not be distracted by that as it is contrary to convention in cars.) That the indicated temperature goes no higher than 70 without the fans suggests to me that either the thermostat remains open all the time or that the temperature reading is wrong. Does the temperature reading drop to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold? Do you have a way to independently measure the temperature using a hand held infra red meter for example? At this stage I can not say whether the ECON fault is related to the temperature fault. I suggest you ignore it for the moment, but bear it in mind if you get other indications of a general electrical problem.

Following 4 or 5 charging cycles the issue has gone away, so all good.

Hi there are two thermostats one on the water pump which is prone to sticking open, if its a cn engine and has the solid inlet manifold the other thermostat is under that that one controls the cabin heat and you can change it without removing the manifold just buy a new core unit and seal, I did mine on my A6 similar engine it fiddly but doable, also posted pics of parts and how to in the A6 C7 part of the forum. Steve.

Hi I thought you might have one you made earlier hidden somewhere, I totally endorse your sentiments, but I can honestly say that the myth of premium brand will not bear close scrutiny, yes the paint and leather seats first class but as for the rest of it, the same as any other manufacturers they go wrong and are very complex to diagnose and fix and unless Audi get their customer service act together they will lose many customers, allied to their starship parts prices it is not good, just as an exercise I priced a new engine for mine on ETKA £12000 +vat for a bare engine, thats over half the price of a good late A6 second hand as for the legendary full service history its not worth the paper its printed on, look at the guys that have posted about 2-3 year old cars serviced by Audi and found the air filters have never been changed since new and when asked they reply thats extra or thats not part of that service, thats when you discover that oil and filter change alone is £150 +vat, I buy quantum spec oil on eBay along with a Bosch filter for sub £40, an hour of my time job done, I must be doing something right as the car is now at over 180k and as I said before Audi genuine is someone else's quality part in a badge engineered box at twice the price. Steve.

I'll drive the car tomorrow for a bit so let's see if removing the shelf can help me pinpoint the root cause of the sound.

Hi Southend Audi are robbing gits, I have used them when desperate as they are near to me, get the part number off the sticker and go on eBay they have loads ranging from s/h £25 to new £95, its only about three bolts and a plug about an hour if you take your time and drink lots of tea between bolts. Steve.

Hello W. Midlands Steve, To avoid undue dismantling and expense:- consider measuring the outside diameter and buying the appropriate straight connector to re join. If it’s a very low pressure breather, you could even find that a plastic push fit connector may suffice. Should be plenty on EBay. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Mohammad, If it's any help to you, I have a a4 allroad with the S Tronic gearbox, oil change is at 38,000. miles. Brian.

WIll start the online research and let you know once I have a solution. Just wathcing a youtube video of a guy doing it through obdeleven, and will give it a go myself tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks

Hi it may well be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as if that goes sideways it will throw up codes for the high pressure side as its not getting enough fuel, the throttle valve is probably gummed up but in saying that what is your engine code?, that will have a bearing on your problems as to its operating systems they throw up different codes, to be fair I think the price you were quoted is over what a normal garage would quote by several miles, if you can get me your engine version I can probably get you some sane prices on the parts, the only worrying code is p2002 as thats the low pressure egr cooler thats a nasty thing to replace, the only real way to dig in to this is get it read with VCDS as that supplies the date and time of the fault and it could be that some of these faults are very old and no longer current, I have found this with my car as the milage racks up you get odd random codes which when deleted never rear their ugly head again, ask for a breakdown of what he is actually going to do for the £1850.00 + vat

The suspension issue you mention shouldn’t drain the battery overnight but I did have a similar issue on my previous Q7 which turned out to be the auxiliary heater. Wouldn’t drain it every night but maybe once a week. Only tracked it down as one morning when I went out to the car I could hear a small fan noise from the passenger wheel arch. A scan of vcds showed “auxiliary heater locked” it wouldn’t unlock and is quite common on older cars to fail as I’d noticed it didn’t work when I bought the car. Removed the auxiliary heater fuse from the passenger side of the dash board and it cured it. 🤔 it might have been the drivers side dash board but think it’s the passenger side.

Great news you've got this sorted. What is the part number for the sensor? Do you have a photo of it's location? It would be really helpful should anyone else have the same issue.

Pande. It would help if you could describe the noise. Is it a rattle, a whistle, a rumble, a grinding noise, or something else? I realise it may be difficult if you are using a translator from Bulgarian. but we need a few more clues.

Hello Graeme, Obviously the situation is intolerable, but to me, the emphasis should be on obtaining suitable substitutes rather than concentrating on how/why Audi has allowed this situation to deteriorate - that is not being progressive. If this were mine, I would concentrating my efforts on inspecting the faulty component (pipe?) and thinking about some better mode of repair than resin goo. Surely a reliable repair/modification would not be beyond the scope of a small engineering shop. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Welcome and thanks for joining. Try entering your registration number into ‘Parts in Motion’ website, and they should come up with a variety of brands of parts. In terms of rear suspension bushes, just go for the complete arms - they are that expensive. Incase it helps, I’ve used Febi parts to good avail. I wouldn’t buy on cheapest will do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I don’t have any connection with Parts in Motion, except having bought a variety of parts off them and had a good service and competitive prices.

Is this the same clunk you posted about on June 11th, and which you failed to respond to Gareth's suggestion?

Hi all chip boxes normally work on the same principle they fool the fuel rail temp sensor in to thinking the car is running cold so the ECU tells the injection system to run richer to warm the engine quicker, the result of this is constant over fuel which will wash the cylinders and then head into the sump and contaminate the oil. Steve.

So I have bought the car - after inspection - and it is perfect - drove from Livinston in Scotland to Lulworth Cove Dorset with no issues at all - no idea why an independent had hold of it - but all good

update.....1st may, battery still dry.😁i wont mark it as a solution as it may come back and bite me.😉 ...update 5th may been chucking it down overnight and this morning. no water on top of the battery or down the sides at all so marked as solution...here is a picture(2) of where one of 2 air vents are in the boot recess.i sealed round the edges.(had to take the bumper off to do them)at least no water gets in cubby holes now where i store the first aid kit etc or anywhere else in the boot.so marked as solution as unsure whats what

Hi All, I got in contact with Schaefer/LUK and they were no help, wouldn’t give any details… I was curious to see if their aftermarket 0B2105266S equivalent would be a fit, but they were adamant it wasn’t and wouldn’t be under warranty if fitted… they said they don’t manufacture a 0B2105266T for the aftermarket I have asked Vaico for their specs on the flywheel but am yet to hear back. Btw this isn’t an option for their flywheel as it’s around £2k… when I can get the VAG for less…just hoping for some specs to compare to. I haven’t had the flywheel out yet, as it’s not a job i could do personally.. however I would feel confident comparing two against each other if I had them in hand I have just been taking it steady with the car, the slip is occasionally happening in 2nd now so not much time left… there is no rattling or worrying noises… just the slipping and odd judder from 1st gear which can be common. An option I’ve been toying with is buying the VAG flywheel and the 0B2105266S equivalent and comparing when the flywheel is out with the mechanic… would be good to shed some light on it as there isn’t much online. just luck of the draw with this model/time of manufacture by the looks of it! May have to bite the bullet, but I’m not giving up yet 🙂 l will keep you posted! Alex