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New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Hi all, I had the same issue where the brake servo and stop start error appeared. After reading this helpful thread, I thought I would do my part to help out too. 🙂 Issue stared on the 5th June 2021 and it was fixed on the 9th June 2021. The car has been driven for approx. 100 miles during this time. I've called up Cardiff Audi and fortunately they have one sensor left in stock. Please note that 5Q 0906207, 5Q 0906207A, 5Q 0906207B are all cross compatible as confirmed by Audi parts department. But of course best to get the latest B version if available. Please note VW, Seat & Sokda all share the same part and I've checked with my local dealerships and they are all the same price £79.60. I've managed to get it down to £76 at Cardiff Audi. If unavailable, usually you can order it and it takes a day to arrive if ordered by mid-day. Installation will take less than 5 mins if you are unfamiliar with the car. I have enclosed a print screen of the Audi A4 Shop manual. Link are here: https://cardiagn.com/audi-a4-b9-8w-brake-system/ Page 146. I can do a simple video to demonstrate this if anyone wanted. One thing to be noted is when you unplugged the sensor, some pressure will be released from the hole. I've asked Cardiff Audi whether this falls part of the recall part and they said no. But they've done a few of these jobs and knew about the issue. I hope the above helps. Kind regards, Ambrose

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

Hi Mike don't take any of this personally, its not aimed at people like yourself who have observed the proprieties and answered and said thank you, I can see what Gareth is driving at along with the others that try to answer a problem, 90% of the information that is given is at best thin and devoid of any real substance, the information you have given is good and you even reply to the requests for further information, Gareth and co are trying to get around the one post wonders who can't be bothered to reply TO ANY SUGGESTIONS OR REQUESTS, they have no preconceptions of what the ideal member is and I think the previous posts just reflect what has changed in the world and not singling out anyone in particular who is already a proactive member, the bottom line is if you attract answers for your problem at least have the decency to reply, otherwise it becomes an exercise in futility and I can honestly see why a lot of first time problem posts remain unanswered, more often than not we are on a hiding to nothing, I personally get a great deal of satisfaction from trying to help solve problems and especially when it all goes the posters way, it has nothing to do with personalities its just plain old helping each other. Steve.

Hi Guys Sorted (I think) I hope the information below will help others. original fault was that my Audi A7 2011 started changing gears itself, changing from Drive to Sports mode with no demand from myself, quite dangerous. On the dash I had the message "Gearbox Fault you can continue driving" Called out the AA, who plugged in the computer and could see 2 gearbox faults but could not identify what they were, advised me to take to a garage. Took it to the local Audi main dealer who eventually found fluid in the main electrical connector on the gearbox ECU and was charged £60 for the diagnosis. Quoted just over £3k to replace the gearbox ECU and wiring harness. At this point I decided to look into it myself. Took it to a friends garage and up on the ramp. removed the gearbox connector and yes there was the fluid inside the connector. Here's a picture from the web, but looks identical The fluid was obviously coolant from the colour and sweet taste (don't recommend tasting though..) So far so good, but how did it get there??? Answer - From the Coolant control valve which is about 12" away and along the same loom.( My issue was from the coolant control valve, but it could have been another valve or sensor) It is apparently a common fault with Audi's and an issue known to Audi- There is a Technical service bulletin out on this TSB# 2033806/7 The TSB is well worth a read. Without getting too techie, The coolant control valve starts leaking fluid through the electrical connection point, this fluid then travels down through the harness through a process called "capillary effect" or "Wicking" and eventually gets to the gearbox electrical connector and causes mayhem to the CAN signals which control the gear selection process. In my case, we used an airline to blow the coolant out of the gearbox connector (carefully on the gearbox end) then sprayed the connector with electrical contactor spray and reconnected the connector. On testing the car, the error message has gone and no more random gear changing. VCDS does not show any errors now. I have a new Coolant control valve being fitted tomorrow ( £130 from Audi or £30 from ebay) If the new valve is not fitted, the problem will just come back in the future. Here's the kicker, had I gone with the Audi main dealer quote, a new harness and gearbox ECU for £3k, the quote did not include a new coolant control valve, therefore I would have been £3k poorer and would have received a "temporary fix" as the valve would have continued to leak and eventually find it's way to the gearbox ECU connector again. In the end it cost around £250 to get sorted. Sorry for the long write up, I hope it helps others.

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Since this section sees little activity,I thought I would wake it up and possibly raise a topic which might cause some controversy - so apologies in advance if it offends, but hopefully it will allow views to be aired. The forum appears to be experiencing an increasing number of ‘members’ joining the forum, to seek help via. their first post, and again simply saying it as it is, then some disappear without any acknowledgement or even feedback, never to return to contribute towards helping others at some point in the future. Steve Q generously welcomes new members who join simply to advise the forum of their interest in Audi, and without wishing to appear patronising, I think Steve’s welcoming attitude is to be applauded, as is the the time taken by some of the new members who don’t immediately want anything, other than joining a like minded community. I just ask- where does this welcoming attitude become taken for granted, and folks just join to seek a free - of charge, and future exchange - consultation? I believe some forums exercise a procedure, whereby new members must make a number of posts before say, advertising, and even requesting help, based on ensuring a participation, rather than a simple ‘I’m joining to pick your brains free of charge’. Just a thought - If new members wish to post a plea for help at a stage where they haven’t posted x number of earlier participating posts, then should they join and post a plea only as paid ‘Supporting members’? Apologies if any of this offends, or is considered non-welcoming, and indeed if any of the above is not shared by others. As usual - Kind regards, Gareth.

Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.

I do fully appreciate where you're coming from Gareth, I've been speaking to Trevor about what we can do to retain members etc. My post can be found in our moderators section. I love helping others and setting up the shows but find it deflating when we get a low turn out for the shows. It's frustrating when you see fellow Audi clubs with large turnouts and we can only get a handful. This has got worse since COVID as we used to have good numbers prior. This includes loosing some regular members due to them joining other clubs or doing other activities. I think most people don't realise the level of investment the admin/moderators team make. You with your vast knowledge and in my case I research the topics once members ask a question which takes time. Plus updating the news section & Motorsport sections as well as the how to guides. I just wish we'd be able to increase our regular members base.

Many thanks to Stagn8 for posting the interview with JCB chairman, totally fascinated with the content and one which all politicians should watch. The total reliance on electricity is totally out of order in this country, the power generation strategy programme over the last 20 odd years has been woeful, we have the lowest power stand by we have ever had, and to think it can be solved by windmills, solar and tidal power stations is a misconception. One new nuclear station due to be commissioned in a few years time and closure of fossil fired stations and aging nuclear stations has been ill thought out. Our source of power importing from France I think is fragile with our relationship with them disappearing fast. Apologies for the rant, it's something I have a little knowledge about having worked in the industry for all my working life.

Hi guys, As promised, here is a short video of how to replace the Brake servo sensor of an Audi A4 B9. Not the best or clearest video, but I hope it helps. Let me know if you have any questions. Ambrose

Hi all. Heres a wee pic of mine 👍

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

I have read a lot of posts recently about water in the footwells etc... so i looked on my a6 c6 drains under the windscreen. Shocking😱😱😱 !!! Check yours to aviod water damage ! Drain is located under the 2 cilinders Cleaned like new ::)

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Hi I love things like this as it denies the Audi Stealers their lives blood, overcharging they probably get the filters for about a fiver each, they never change the filter and if left it causes all sorts of other problems, by rights an air filter should be changed every year regardless of milage as no one has microscope eyeballs that can see how blocked the filter medium pores are, think about it, more cleaner air so the ECU is not constantly correcting the injector factors to allow for the lack of it. Steve.

Replaced mine this week after its Audi service. Surprise, surprise another thing not included in their 'service plan'. Anyway, they quoted £48 to supply and fit but I bought the filter myself from ECP for £25 and spent 10 mins to fit. I have very little mechanical knowledge and it's quite easy. Unclip Maf Loosen the pipes from holders on airbox Undo Torx Screws Remove filter Filter twists off, although after 5 mins of fighting thinking it was stuck there's a small tab which you need to press to release it. Hoover out airbox Replace via reverse. Pics of mine, not sure if ever replaced and the car was on 76k so well overdue by the look of it!

Hello - whoever you are. Sorry to start off on a negative note , but you give us very little to go on - no name, no location, no year of the car, no info on service history, no MOT history, number of owners, and last change of owner, who (company?) has put this vehicle to the mileage covered? Whether you have requested a service history print out via. an Audi dealer-? High mileage vehicles can be better than ultra low mileage in some respects, but frequency of servicing become paramount. l Again with apologies, but do the homework and at least give us something to advise on! We do like to help on here, but you really do need to help yourself, to help us. Just in passing:- I’ll quote the outspoken Dewar ( of Dewar whisky) ‘ If we are put on this earth to help one another, what are the others doing to help themselves?’ Kind regards, Gareth.

Whatever the precise cause Joshua, there is no cheap or quick fix for that sort of problem. Take it back for a refund before it is too late, and don't be deterred by excuses, delaying tactics, or prevarication from the seller.

In line with other forums, may I be allowed to mark the passing of our Queen, and offer condolences, as we would with any other family who have just lost a loved one. Having experienced my childhood before the start of her reign, and lived and worked throughout it, I firmly believe that we have enjoyed the best decades so far. With all the bad news surrounding the immediate future, let’s hope that things will turn out to be not as bad as forecast, yet perhaps we should respect that we cannot continue to take tomorrow for granted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Years ago, after my warranty ran out on my A6 Avant I decided to do my own oil change, What a chor to have to remove the under tray just to change the oil. I decided to do something about it, so I cut an access hole in the under tray. Oil changes are now so easy.

Thanks to all those who have contributed to this forum. I have had the message servo restricted several times and message went off, me thinking all ok!! until message appeared again and and ABS was kicking in when driving. Found this forum and it was central to me sorting issue, changed (2 minute job) said sensor having got it sent from Phil at Cardiff Audi parts direct. All appears well now, no warning messages and stop start working and hopefully ABS saved!! Again a big thank you to this forum.

Hi all, just to add my own experience with this - i got the same warnings this morning (brake servo restricted + start/stop fault). At first i decided to ignore as it wasn't in yellow or red. But then i got on the internet spent couple of hours reading other peoples' experiences and i got scared (didn't want to pay £3k for new ABS system). I called my local workshop, who said they didn't do such things. Then i called Audi to book an appointment with them, but they don't work saturdays. I tried to book online, the first available slot was next saturday. Then i decided i'm going to replace it myself, looked quite easy on youtube, part available on ebay... And then (after reading the last posts here) i remembered i have audi roadside assistance cover🤦‍♀️ I called them straight away, they came in about 1h, the guy was an audi guy and he was amazing. He knew about this fault of course, he said a lot of cars have it and he was really glad i called them straight away on the first day the message appeared. He said he wouldn't recommend driving the car with this fault as it only take certain amount of presses on the brake till the ABS system breaks. Luckily he had exactly the same part with him (apparently there are two types - A and B but he had one of each with him) , he replaced it in no time and diagnostics came out clear, message disappeared...sorted. All covered i didn't pay anything extra. He also said that even if he had not had the part with him, he would be back here on Monday with it. So if you do have roadside assistance from Audi, just call them. Don't wait, it sounds like it can get really pricey. Also, if you call audi assistance, you're actually calling the yellow AA and they can dispatch any car - it can be the regular AA or Audi guys. Just insist that you want the Audi guys, even if you have to wait a bit longer. The regular AA won't have the parts and probably won't even know about this issue.

Sadly, I guess we won’t know for 3-4 years whether the B version or the eBay cheapies are any good, as it seemed to take the OEM ones that length of time to fail. I suspect Audi did a cost benefit analysis and decided that dealer labour prices to replace a £75 part probably wasn’t worth it, given that the dash warning alerts users to the fault. That warning may be misleading, but most of us have heeded it and swapped the sensor - thanks mainly to this kind of forum.

I used to be the chairman of the Ford Cortina mk2 owners club, still have a classic car no longer got mk2 Cortina's I have a 1964 Ford Consul Classic.

Well Steve, your mention of decency to respond, sums it up in a couple of words. It doesn’t add any on-cost to the already free! - and welcoming- service, yet some must think that attribute is an unnecessary skill to acquire these days. I find myself thinking ‘nice car, pity you didn’t order it with the optional manners pack!’ , but there again, I’m old fashioned - well old anyway! It’s interesting to hear that you too get a well deserved satisfaction from helping others, and that Steve Q does as well. That’s great, now we have at least three guaranteed, and I sure a few others too. Keep enjoying that Steve. There must be very few forums which can benefit from such experience gained from almost galaxial mileage usage, and the necessary problem solving which goes with it - and all to try to earn a living. Many thanks again and kind regards, Gareth.

hi lads its an interesting topic youve raised and everyone has a different opinion,i personally find the forum very helpful and friendly and have gotten good advice in the past,i also see people come on here and get good advice but dont ever come back or offer a thank you,i guess theres a bit of that in all forums. on a personal level im here in eire so cant attend any shows but i definitely would if the journey was shorter and i dont offer much advice as i wouldnt have a lot of knowledge on some models,but i really do enjoy logging in and reading all the posts so keep it going and we can hope people will appreciate how valuable a tool that this forum is.greg

Hi here are the pics of my box out, the driveshaft seal goes in hole in the gearbox diff housing I also included a picture of the reciprocating part of the diff, the exploded diagram shows the other possible contender marked in yellow that fits between radius shaft and the inner bore of the slave cylinder, the pressure plate and driven plate are industrial quality with regard too gripping there are only three things that cause slip, clutch master, contamination or just good old wear

It takes 5 minutes to replace the brake servo sensor, at least another 5 to clear the fault. They charged my pal 660 to do the work on his car. I personally replaced mine by myself and I am certainly no mechanic. They are rip offs!!

Hi, yes all working now. The problem was stop start at stand still and I guess the same system puts the car into coast mode when driving. That was when driving is when the warning came up.

It looks like my power issues and no communication issue to CAN were all related to corroded wiring in the drivers side trunk area, we found the wiring to be literally crumbling once moved which was possibly as a result of a leak 18months ago. Once the wires were trimmed back and connected all power was restored. I still have my original elrctronic brake issue but that should be easily resolved now the car has power and is starting 😃 below is the link I found that lead me to the source of the issue and hopefully is will save someone else a lot of effort and time if they have the same or similar issues https://www.audiworld.com/forums/vag-com-discussion-51/b8-chasing-intermittent-codes-can-failures-no-crank-no-start-inspect-splice-2973994/

Hello Alex, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your (not too uncommon) issue. The Audi ‘recommended’ garage quote seems unacceptably high to me - excessively? - and must include the supply, fit and spray of a new wing. I would seriously question this need, and if it were mine, I would hawk this around a couple of local body shops and obtain estimates there. You could also try a couple of ‘smart repair’ specialists and see what becomes most attractive to you. Claiming on insurance would be my last resort, since I would anticipate a local repair is likely to cost little more than an average excess - we would hope. Of course, if you claim off your insurance, then bang goes your NCB, and even if this is protected, your next premium will be hiked - as it will be, even if you just notify your insurers you have been involved in this accident - even if you decide not to claim. All of this boils down to not informing your insurers, and simply getting quotes to get it done yourself. Very unfortunate, but….. Car is on lease? - I’m probably out of touch, but a little surprised that a 5 year old car is still under lease. Hope some of the above is of some help. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. For recommendations on good value Bodyshops in your area - call in at a couple of smaller volume used car sites and ask for recommendations there. These boys usually know where good jobs are done at reasonable prices.

Part 3 - Fixed So the problem go worse to the point the car was stopping while driving. roughly 30 seconds from starting and moving away to then flash warnings and refuse to start. I limped home after 10 minutes of trying to start. Relays 614 and 395 are apparently know issues and I bought 2 new relays from a VW garage. Cost circa £20 each. They didn't seem damaged or broken but replacing them has worked well. Getting to the ECU box on the right hand side required removing the windscreen wipers and black plastic under the window but was otherwise okay. Since being replaced I've had 24hrs of okay starting and driving. if anything fails I will update here Ben

To all contributors on here, and the hard working admin folks who keep this forum up and running in an efficient and friendly manner:- May we wish you all a Merry Christmas and a healthy and happy new year, and trust that your motoring problems will be few and far between in the coming year. Best wishes, Gareth & family.

Here's one :)