Magnet

Hello Bradon and Jason, Not sure if I'm barking up wrong trees with you model years, but I'm pretty sure the earlier than 2008 models may not/did not, have mounting points for these bars. As I understand it, they can be retro fitted, but it means drilling the roof at the appropriate points! As I say, I could be wrong, but might be worth checking before buying. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well MM ( is that really your forename? - I was going to say Christian name, but that probably won't be politically correct any more!) - if you understand one part of it, then you are at least one step ahead of me! - I haven't a clue what you are on about, but I think I will just plead being thick. Good luck with your acronyms. Gareth.

Welcome to proposed Audi A6 purchase. Yes, I know what an acronym is, but never knew it was a prerequisite of Audi ownership. If so, I'm out of compliance! Good luck. Gareth ( Regath)

I would agree with Darren, but I would ask the question, does this engine use much oil? in fact, how much oil does it use say per 1000 km? Perhaps I'm missing something , but I cannot see how a thicker oil will prolong engine life, when compared with keeping the oil level to normal using the correct viscosity oil. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. For what it is worth, I've been using VAG's. branded Quantum ( Longlife) oil for years in a similar mileage/ age petrol A3 throughout its life.

Many thanks Darren.

Many thanks Smokey. It's probably me, but I wouldn't entertain carrying out all this work and expense, and then not changing the slave cylinder - effectively the only clutch component you won't be changing. I just asked about where you were since it is normally listed ( perhaps not filled in) and your reference to "my tech" almost sounded American. As I say, good luck in getting it sorted properly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh dear Smokey - that does not sound a good outcome, and I guess it goes without saying that you will be changing the clutch slave cylinder ( (as asked for initial advice) as well - relative peanuts of an add-on cost. Not sure if I should say this, but perhaps your bad experience may just be of benefit to others about the perils of letting things get worse before attending to them. Anyway Smokey, let's hope it all works out better than it could be for you. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Where abouts are you?

Like the 'Removed' edit for the term describing the mother of a pup? Must remember to respect political correctness even when the word used is the correct, and non offensive, descriptive one! Good, isn't it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks to you all for the good advice. Down near Cardiff, Darren. Just wondered if you could let me have the TPS contact - sorry, never come across these, but sounds useful. What to they do by the way? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the update Carl. Now if my maths serves me well after all these years, you paid an extra £46 to get a pollen filter changed - plus whatever the nogatioated discount you managed on the original oil and filter change. Re taking your own oil next time:- well you could try, but there is a well quoted tale of the restaurant owner who often did the same thing at his local garage, until the garage owner visited the restaurant with his own steak, and asked to simply be charged for cooking it! Still, you've had it all done now. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carl, £190 per hour plus VAT equates to £228. Has anyone else got some up to date comparison with average labour rates at Audi dealerships? Appreciating I'm probably out of touch, but I think that is most certainly on the high side of high! Oil at £130 - OK I realise you car is a bit special. I think I would be asking if you have sought alternative quotes from other Audi dealers. You list your location as "UK", and no doubt you will be aware that rates are likely to be more expensive around the large cities. It might help to know where you are, since someone on here may be able to recommend an alternative main dealer or a respected independent. Appreciating your car is still under warranty and the need to ensure you don't compromise that with the necessary servicing. Very enlightening, or at least frightening! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ann, In relation to your question raised by Trevor's sound advice " How would you know if miles are proper......?" I think the answer to that is fairly simple to research. I have mentioned before under other such posts that although service history is important, it is likely to be more important to know how the car has been used and cared for. Easy to ascertain? Well, I think it is ( but more often than not overlooked). If you are not buying direct from the owner, then you obtain the last keeper's contact details from the V5 and you discuss the merits or otherwise, of the car. The true story of the car lies there. If the dealer is reluctant to give you that contact - data protection and all that! - then ask them to ask the last owner if they will contact you. If that doesn't work, then walk away. Short term ownership with last owner? Very often not a good sign. Good luck with finding what you want, but just think - would you buy a pup from a dealer without at least talking to the owner of the !Removed!? Pedigrees are all well and good, but how something has been cared for is important too. Do as much homework as possible before shaking anyone's hand. Kind regards. Gareth.

Many thanks Cliff - I follow your logic, but wonder if the curcuit that illuminates the oil can light finds its earth through the oil pressure switch, which is "shorted" to ground when no pressure is applied. By this method, it also tests the the pressure switch, and I wonder if this switch works on the principle that as oil pressure is applied, the switch "opens" and disconnects the earth, and the light stays out. Its only a stab at it, and if I knew where the switch was then I could test it, which I would hope is going to be easier than testing the bulb in the dashboard. Where's switch folks, and where is the PAS reservoir? It's intriguing! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, I've bumped this thread back up again in the hope that someone will be able to point me in the direction of exactly where the oil pressure switch is on this 1.6 engine, so that I can do some tests. I'm not very comfortable not having an oil pressure light! Also raised a recent thread on where the power steering reservoir is on this car. Will be very grateful for any help on both issues. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It would be reassuring if someone with the same model could confirm that they have an oil can light on switching on the ignition.

Update. Friendly local MOT station gave me this procedure from the Autodata system:- Switch ingintion ON. PULL and hold trip button until the message "Service" appears in the display. Release button. WITHiN 5 seconds, PULL and hold trip button until the message "Service in......miles......days" appears. Release button and switch off ignition. This worked for me in so far as it has extinguished the spanner. Actually, I did not see "Service" or "Service in......", but I did see a figure of 9000 in the last operation. I'm assuming that the spanner will come on again in 9000 miles, but could be wrong. If it's right, then that will be fine since an average annual mileage for it will be around 7K when it will be serviced again, and the reset done for a further 9000 - I hope! Thought this may be of help to someone at some time. It appears that if the car is to continue to be serviced on a Longlife schedule then it has to be plugged in to the diagnostics to set up the next correct mileage/time service interval. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just tried the service reset, but unfortunately it doesn't work for me. The listing states it's applicable to the 8L up to 2006. Wondered if anyone has anything for the 8P. Many thanks anyway Trevor. Kind regards, Gareth.

I most certainly agree with Barry's sentiments regarding using quality parts only. I would however suggest caution with any motor factors ( not just restricted to ECP) where you are certainly going to get the parts cheaper - but the same braking effect and lasting qualities?? I know I am repeating, but it might be worth being beware of brand names that were once much loved and respected, but are now possibly no more than bought-out brand names which appear an attractive buy due to the cheap price. Good luck with whatever you decide - let us know Aidie. Kind regards, Gareth.

Having trouble trying to locate the power assisted steering reservoir on the 2006 1.6 Sportback. Wondered if anyone can help - just wanted to check the level. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Trevor, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graeme, "You can take the Welsh......... " Just incase it came out a bit confused:- I meant a well established Audi independent specialist rather than an independent auto electrician. Another alternative to possibly find a good auto electrician (who may be able to bye pass the immobiliser) is to ask around your local classic car clubs/enthusiasts. Often a good source of practical advice. Goodcluck with it . Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graeme, Well WRU eh! What part of God's country do you live? - you don't tell us. OK, so Audi cannot do anything for you, and as you say, why sell you the parts that you can't use! I would have suggested a well established independent, and if we know your locality then someone might even able to recommend someone for you. I have used an auto electrician west of Cardiff for a similar issue with a Jeep Cherokee. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rich, I feel I'm not going to answer your question very well, but I would have thought that if the aerial just has two wires coming out of it , without any signs of being modified, then it's possible that only two wires there were originally. Is it possible that the feed wire only receives power (via the radio) when the radio is switched on? It may be worth messaging Mark from Cardiff, who joined here a few weeks ago, since he has a nice Cabriolet. He is pretty handy to say the least ( don't tell him I said!) Nice chap and helpful. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Clifford. That's very reassuring and dispels the myth that at my age, I should be just sitting in the corner, slippers on and complaining about absolutely everything! The first two, I refuse to do, the last one I always feel it worth passing an opinion if you think things could be better than they are. Come back "tidy" (as we say in these parts) dipsticks as you say Clifford. Who on earth at VAG came up with a brown background on which to gauge an oil level? You rightly say black oil level is difficult, but I now find that changing the oil every year it doesn't get that black - making it even worse to read! Still, we have a dipstick (engineered by a dipstick?). I guess better than not having one at all, which seems to be getting popular now. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, I am now servicing our daughter's ex A3 (previously dealer serviced on longlife schedules) on an annual basis due to mum and dad's comparatively low mileage use. I continue to use Quantum Longlife oil even though I now change it every year - bit OTT but.... Question:- Spanner light is on. Is there a way of extinguishing this without any plug in gizmos which I don't have access to? Is it just me, but do other owners find the dip stick to be user unfriendly in its markings? Why did they put that plastic serrated bit on the bottom as a gauge of the oil level? Very difficult to read and be sure you don't overfill. Well to me, I've seen much easier readable dip sticks. As a matter of interest and to save trying to gauge it, does anyone know the exact oil quantity for an oil and filter change. It's a 2006 1.6 Sportback 'Special Edition" - which equals the basic model I think. Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello Jay, Wow. Obviously we don't know what is small in your "small part......" or indeed where on the tread this is. It may be of no significance, but any separation of any part of the tread on a tyre must be looked at by a reputable tyre company to assure yourself that this is safe. Of course, you might have done so, and apologise if you have. If you haven't then please please do so. If there is a recommendation to get this replaced then near new or not - spend, beg, borrow or steal to best safeguard your and other road users safety. Sorry Jay, this may be a bit harsh, jumping the gun, and indeed you may have had it looked at by your reputable tyre company, but gluing bits of tread on tyres ...! Anyway, good luck in getting this sorted safely. Kind regards, Gareth.